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That looks like a really cool project. Doing a 4x4 conversions would be awesome!
Yup that has been my plan since day one. I've been looking around for a decent 4x4 to swap too. I've even looked at 2nd generations 4runner 4x4's to chop up and use as they aren't as pricey as pickups 4x4's.
Front Brake Pads Changed, Now brake are soft and barely stop. Work just fine before the New Pads where put on.
1) I did bleed all the brakes Pass Rear, Driver Rear, Pass front and then Driver Front. Did this about 6 times and 64 fl oz of brake fluid. Still same soft pedal and barely braking. LSVP maybe an issue, but not much I'll explain down the road.
2) Changed Master Cylinder, bench bleed MC and installed. Still same issue soft pedal.
3) Had some front calipers I rebuilt, but wasn't ready to install then just yet. With this issue I was forced to install them. Same issue, soft pedal. Again bleed lines.
4) Did some checking of the Booster.
A) Turned truck off and pressed brakes very firm held for a minute MOL not sinking.
B) Pressed down on brakes and started truck up brakes sank to floor.
C) Pumped brakes about 5 time MOL and got just a little firm and then sank back down. (Sounds like the MC, but it's not)
D) Checked for leaks, couldn't find any vacuum leaks, but I think there is as when I press down on the brakes the idle dips and gets rough slightly, could be at the front seal.
At this point it doesn't seem to be the booster or the calipers and I've hunted for line leaks and I can't find any however slight.
5) LSVP can't bleed this unit because the bolt to bleed the unit has broken off or should I say the head on the nut is broken off.
Did a little test to see if the LSVP is working since I did the ZUKMOD and raised the truck rear almost 3"
A) Removed the Bar to the axle and raised it with a piece of wood just to test. The rod is all the way up which if the LSVP is working properly would cause the rear tire to lock when braking.
Rear brakes lock up as I thought they would LSVP, but I can tell the front wheels aren't still braking as they were before changing pads.
B) Lowered the LSVP rod back to original and the same issue soft pedal lack of real braking.
I can't think of anything else other than replacing the brake lines.
Front Brake Pads Changed, Now brake are soft and barely stop. Work just fine before the New Pads where put on.
1) I did bleed all the brakes Pass Rear, Driver Rear, Pass front and then Driver Front. Did this about 6 times and 64 fl oz of brake fluid. Still same soft pedal and barely braking. LSVP maybe an issue, but not much I'll explain down the road.
2) Changed Master Cylinder, bench bleed MC and installed. Still same issue soft pedal.
3) Had some front calipers I rebuilt, but wasn't ready to install then just yet. With this issue I was forced to install them. Same issue, soft pedal. Again bleed lines.
4) Did some checking of the Booster.
Do you have rear ABS? If so you probably need to activate the the abs a couple of time (on dirt or gravel) to get an air out of the abs unit. There is a procedure for bleeding the abs unit but it requires a special tool. I don't recall where i found the info about activating the abs but I ran into similar issues with my 2ndgen. You also need to make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly, if not you will have a mushy pedal.
Do you have rear ABS? If so you probably need to activate the the abs a couple of time (on dirt or gravel) to get an air out of the abs unit. There is a procedure for bleeding the abs unit but it requires a special tool. I don't recall where i found the info about activating the abs but I ran into similar issues with my 2ndgen. You also need to make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly, if not you will have a mushy pedal.
No ABS in this mix..
Looking at replacing lines that may not be leaking, but maybe bloating old rubber hoses
If the rubber lines are soft they can cause this. Sticking slide pins can cause it.
Thanks for the reply 93ehatch. It couldn't be the slide pins because these calipers don't have any, but could be soft lines.
Been giving this a lot thought and haven't found a real solution as of yet.
i am thinking of doing some of the following once I get the chance.
1) First thing that comes to mind is the LSPV could be acting up. I have a spare unknown to me if it is working since I got it off a junkyard last year. Chance are it is still good and so is the one on the truck, but can't bleed the one on the truck because of the design, the bolt to bleed the unit head cracked off even with being careful and waiting 24hrs after lubing.
Here's a pictures pictures of what mine sort of looks like:
Here's what my spare looks like and one that seem to be the typical design:
I don't know if it will make a difference swapping them out, but it could be blocked which could be causing some problems.
2) Master brake cylinder. Even though the unit was changed out 2 years ago with a part from the local parts store (brand:weaver) this could be an issue. I did exchange it this week when I started having this problem and still do have the problem after changing it. At some point i am thinking of getting a different brand just to see if there is a difference.
Well in searching for some brake parts, I came across a re-manufactured caliper. Price was off so I was thinking some thing is wrong. Decided to order it and see what I get. Oh yeah what was wrong the price of $12.22. Was there a digit wrong or missing? Shipping was about 3/4 of the item price. Total 22 and change. Got it yesterday.
Hey all been busy with things around the house, painting, patching, landscaping so I've had little to no time to do anything on the truck. Wish i was a millionaire...
Any who... I still putty around with a few stuff when I get the chance nothing substantial to talk or write about. The brake thing still need attending to, but I did manage to get the brakes to work better by raising the arm on the LPSV up, after a while the braking changed a little it seems that even though the calipers are freshly rebuilt it just started slightly pulling to the right when braking. I guess I am going to have to look at the lines for the right side calipers better or bleed the line again.
Next topic is my 1980 Sunrader.
You all know I got one and it's been sitting for a while with all the projects I've got on my list. Well every once in a while I end up finding a truck that might replace the truck hauling the Sunrader. Issues are the following:
1) Not many pickup trucks down in S Florida all are newer.
2) Toyota pickup truck are usually higher priced because they seem to be in demand for construction workers.
3) 4x4 are price over board because so many of them head to the border via ship as they are in demand.
4) Not to interested in the newer tacos over priced and have that frame rust issue.
5) Hard to find a 4x4 pickup 95 and older in decent condition.
6) So many 2nd gen and 3rd gen 4runners available somewhat cheap to chop up (more work) and frame is some what better than the tacos.
7) Only problem with the 4runners are most are 2wd not 4wd.
So with all that in mind I'm thinking of buying a 2wd 4runner to chop up even though i prefer a 4wd.
I know that most think that I should get a 4wd and yes I really want a 4wd because of road handling on slippery roads with that weight on the back will help matters. But then again can you imagine a 4x4 Sunrader....
cyber - I understand it's hard to find the right truck down here in S FL, and probably truth be told, 99.9% of the time the sunrader will be on well paved roads with no chance of snow or ice and if it's raining that hard to have flowing water on the road, you'll probably pull over anyway b/c your windshield wipers won't keep up and the camper will be blowing all over the road. So yeah, I think a 2wd would be fine. A 4wd would be amazing, but it just won't be used. Would be pretty cool to have low range in the tcase in case you got to some mountains or hills that needed a slow crawl up or down, but you could put a tcase in a 2wd. Anyhow I wouldn't fault you for using a 2wd, and it probably makes sense logistically.
cyber - I understand it's hard to find the right truck down here in S FL, and probably truth be told, 99.9% of the time the sunrader will be on well paved roads with no chance of snow or ice and if it's raining that hard to have flowing water on the road, you'll probably pull over anyway b/c your windshield wipers won't keep up and the camper will be blowing all over the road. So yeah, I think a 2wd would be fine. A 4wd would be amazing, but it just won't be used. Would be pretty cool to have low range in the tcase in case you got to some mountains or hills that needed a slow crawl up or down, but you could put a tcase in a 2wd. Anyhow I wouldn't fault you for using a 2wd, and it probably makes sense logistically.
Hey Cory,
Thanks for chiming in. I've been up and down with this thing and so far the best bet is a 4runner 2wd one because they are available. I really really wanted 4wd and would have to wait for that.
As soon as I get most of my major things done around the house which is a tone right now including tiling and some basic remodeling i want to strip down that Sunrader from the truck it is currently on and put it up on stilts till I figure out how I am going to put another truck under it. Don't want to even think about taking the truck out without having something setup for it to stand on and be tied down so that is why it is still on the truck it came with. If nothing pans out after November for a truck I probably will pull the truck out since Hurricane season would have passed already. Plus I've got some genius idea of other customization I've been working on mentally and on paper.
Yeah I may be able to convert the front end with a tcase and redo the the front end suspension for 4wd. I see a bunch of 4wd at the junk yard, but for that they want a ton of $ down here.
Once all this humidity changes I plan on painting some of those parts I prepared already for the 87 4runner, the humidity is very high right now.
Been a while since I've posted here. I haven't done much with the truck lately do to time and priorities, though I am putzing around with a few things here and there. I am trying to work on some rust parts, but weather isn't helping as most of the work I do is outside. Got to hurry on the rust work as everyone already knows the longer you wait the bigger the problem. I have been looking around for better solutions to rust repair such as buying cut panels from junk yards etc... but because of where I live, seem they are far away from my reach.
In the mist of driving around the runner it seems my temp sensor wasn't doing too good and didn't report to me the rise in temp until it was to late. Over heated the motor and most likely blew the gasket as the truck doesn't idle great any more and runs rough. I've already started a new build on a new motors with parts I have and i'm almost 75% complete on the new engine build. Just buying parts as i go along as I put in maybe 2 or 3 hours a week into it. Not much time when you consider the amount work needed, but something is something. So far Block and head are together and timing chain all new and after market. Now just putting together all the little stuff around it cooling egr, throttle body, plenum, rails, etc... Trying to get what ever I can new or aftermarket that's acceptable. When ever toyota parts are with in reach I head there like spark plugs and get them for $1.44 each (don't know why they are cheap, but they are and they are toyota denso) as well the pilot bearing NACHI was $6.50 cheaper than those other brands. Oil filters are cheap there as well. I purchased a new TPS unfortunately a beck/arnley which was at a very decent price. Needing to buy some injectors, but don't want to spend a fortune looked at some new import unknown brand, but they only offered 30 days after receiving it, so I back off trying those out even though they were 4 ports instead of 1. I've pretty much elected to buy some re manufactured OEM for now, I want to get the truck up to par then try out some changes. Like buying a set of those 4 port injectors adding a dual timing chain (don't see the reason behind that yet so that one still up in the air as metal guides and cost still out weight the dual version).
Well got to run times short today so many things to like work....
Hey junk! Almost 2 years to the day since your last post in this thread! Progress is progress, no matter how little. Post up some pics of this rebuilt block\head. Did you buy a head from engbldr or LCE or something or did you machine one that you had, I can't remember?
Hey junk! Almost 2 years to the day since your last post in this thread! Progress is progress, no matter how little. Post up some pics of this rebuilt block\head. Did you buy a head from engbldr or LCE or something or did you machine one that you had, I can't remember?
Hey Cory,
Yup 2 years and counting and more to go... Progress is progress what ever that maybe.
I haven't taken any pics with the little to none space I'm working on the motor in. I've been chucking stuff out as I find they aren't any use to me. Some of the stuff like 22r intake manifold I just dumped. I'm also trying to sort everything out that I've collected and stashed away while I was doing some work at a scrap yard and a few truck came rolling through. That said the block I'm working on is one of those engines i pulled out of one of those trucks that came through. I had the block bored and put some NPR pistons/ring in it. The head I sent down to the shop as well to have the valve done including the crankshaft. So once I finish it I'm pulling the motor out of the truck and putting this in it and most likely sending the block to be machined to rebuild too.
PS - That rust thing is killing me and since my neighbor is a airplane mech he suggested I use ACF50 as that will retard some of the rusting to a good degree. As soon as I get the time and weather permitting, I want to weld up those rusted out areas and protect them up with something or that ACF50 even corrosion X.
Oh yeah one more thing, Cleaning up those storage bins helps find things I need to build that motor almost complete. So that said as well, today I bolting up the EGR Cooling plate, Alternator bottom mount and fuel filter bracket.
Got some work done yesterday. got most of all the brackets linked up (not bolted up yet) making sure bolts and everything is ready to go. Once I get everything sorted I'll end up bolting them up together. Started working on the Intake manifold, throttle body and plenum. Been linking up everything to make sure everything is there. Got a new AC VSV from the dealer a while back, but can't seem to get the EGR VSV its discontinued. Looking at using one of the newer 22re EGR VSV as it was mentioned online that it maybe possible to use just have to get the connectors hooked up, still don't know yet, but maybe worth a try since most grave yards around town don't even have anything before 95.
I got my hands on a 2001 4runner has some issues, but got a workable price. Since it's a 2001 T4R it has that issue with the throttle body which is a common issue for 2001-2002 in the T4R. Has a bunch of Minor dents, but nothing major. Will post a pick as soon as i can of it.
Okay been busy with the 2001 4runner haven't gone back the 87 4runner in the last few days.
So sorry this doesn't belong here since its a 3rd gen 4runner, but I just through it in anyhow. I got a no return throttle from the bay and it seems that its a defective one as well, though not a 100% sure. Put the old one back in after taking it somewhat apart to see how it works. All electronics at this point ETCS (electronic throttle control system) . Anyhow it seems that the error keep going back to the TPS, Since there doesn't seem to be a way to set these TPS let alone get one, you have to fiddle with them to get them close to a range and let the computer do the rest. Seems to work just fine, but still stalls out. Hooked up a ODB reader for a while to monitor it, there was a fluctuation in the engine thermostat which made me think one or 2 things Air in the radiator or bad ECT. But then later I began to wonder if the Alternator could be a problem so this morning I decided to test it. When I opened the hood, i saw a little radiator splash very minor so I looked around nothing no major issues. Cranked her up and ran it checked the voltage seems fine check fuses seems fine. I let it run more and then went to squeeze the top radiator hose. No pressure at this temps there should have been something... nothing completely soft. Looked around nothing then squeezed again and notices a hair line crack. Going to get a aftermarket radiator they sell up the road here for $68 hopefully that may help me with some of the problems. One other thing engine temps seem to remain in the middle on the dash and for the ECT they stay between 180 - 194 degrees. I'm probably going to change them out too even though the readings show they are okay.
Okay finally got the 2001 4runner running so far with just 55 miles driving around. no codes no major malfunctions yet. Changed out the Radiator, Throttle body (includes the all in one APP and TPS). Some minor stuff worked on since it nagged me was the shifter bushings easy change somewhat, just getting those bushing to squeeze in and getting your fingers in there to bolt it back up. It done and doesn't wiggle or jiggle anymore. While I was in there I changed the bulb which was burnt out. Shes running like a kitten so far. I need to change out the valve cover seal including the Spark plug seals a typical leak for these trucks i read. Also will be doing the timing belt soon its on the list.
Been kind of on hold for the replacement 22re. I've been search around for deals on some injectors for it. The are a bunch of after markets and I am skeptical about them, though willing to try some out if i could get a reasonable price. Since I'm on hold with the engine, been starting up doing just a little painting. Worked on the Fender, valance, cowl cover a while back. Using a Dolly and a hammer I banged out a bunch of dent on the fender (no bondo here just banging).
After all that I ended up using filler primer to make sure I get most of the uneven places level. Did this about 2 time each time sand.
05-29-2016, 01:25 PM
(more work) and frame is some what better than the tacos. 
and yes I really want a 4wd because of road handling on slippery roads with that weight on the back will help matters. But then again can you imagine a 4x4 Sunrader....
Progress is progress what ever that maybe.
