richf 1985 4runner build-up thread
#121
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To be honest I have only taken it down the road up to about 35mph. Right off the bat I was getting the exhaust gas sucked into the truck. I had the screen window on and the drivers side window down. That will be my next project for the truck. I didn't notice any excessive noise while driving but I'm sure it has to be louder than the stock top. I a little afraid to take it on the high way. It was so hard to snap some of the last buttons, that I think it might get ripped off by the 55-65mph winds while driving.
#123
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Exhaust gases thru the rear window
Curious to see how you solve the exhaust issue with the softtop. On the hard top guys have had success with adding a spoiler like on the second gens.
Curious to see how you solve the exhaust issue with the softtop. On the hard top guys have had success with adding a spoiler like on the second gens.
#125
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Ya I got the screen window and the clear vinyl window. I'm not really sure how I'm going to solve the exhaust issue. It's like the interior of the truck creates a vacuum while driving and the air behind the truck kind of curls up and gets stuck in a pocket by the tail gate and then the truck's vacuum sucks it in??? With the soft top there is no visor option as you know. I think they look horrible anyways.
#126
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I'm not crazy about the looks either, but my dogs like the fact that i can put the window down for them.
when i first got my truck i thought it was the bad exhaust leak from the cat back. But once i redid the exhaust from the manifold back i realized it was the vacuum created by drag off the back of the truck. I get slightly better results with the windows down, but you can still smell fumes.
I'm going to clean mine up this weekend to get ready for the install.
good luck
when i first got my truck i thought it was the bad exhaust leak from the cat back. But once i redid the exhaust from the manifold back i realized it was the vacuum created by drag off the back of the truck. I get slightly better results with the windows down, but you can still smell fumes.
I'm going to clean mine up this weekend to get ready for the install.
good luck
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That's the obvious answer but to were is the question?? Maybe putting the tail pipe before the tire. I don't really know. Good thing I have a welder to play with. I wish I had a wind tunnel.
#130
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I wonder if a Safari/Cargo Basket on top would disrupt enough air flow to defuse the low pressure pocket forming behind the rear?
If you move the pipe in front of the rear wheel, you may get more fumes in the cab when you are creeping.
Before you get crazy with the welder and moving the system, i would try a turn-down. I've also seen a swallow-tail designed turn-down on school buses, but i must admit, I am not sure what it is doing other then defusing the gases out of the pipe. And i can't find a picture to show you what i mean.
If you move the pipe in front of the rear wheel, you may get more fumes in the cab when you are creeping.
Before you get crazy with the welder and moving the system, i would try a turn-down. I've also seen a swallow-tail designed turn-down on school buses, but i must admit, I am not sure what it is doing other then defusing the gases out of the pipe. And i can't find a picture to show you what i mean.
#131
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i know what you mean, rb. makes sense, and might work better. as for the roof rack, it won't do too much. air is still coming from the sides and bottom (although not as much, it still would curl around) . what he really needs is 4 straight-pipes coming from the header, out the hood
looks like you have 2 options so far. point down like rb said or side-exit before the wheel. you could also make an exhaust stack!
looks like you have 2 options so far. point down like rb said or side-exit before the wheel. you could also make an exhaust stack!
#133
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ok, just did a quick search. some other people had the same problem, and did a side exit before the rear tire. no fumes. hope that helps
and here are the tips you were talking about
and here are the tips you were talking about
#134
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Just took the truck home 30 miles on the highway 55-65 mph with the screen on and the top did great. No new road noise, top wasn't flapping or shacking. I'd say so far it's a good buy.
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BACK FROM THE DEAD! The truck has had some ruff times in the last 7 or so months. Got in a accident on Hatteras Island. Ended up locking the rear wheels of truck and sliding 50' into the back of the car in front of me. Messed up the drivers side fender, jacked the hood up and now I have to chain it shut, busted the drivers side head light, drivers side running light. Anyways had a replacement fender on hand and bought a running light from a guy on here. Turns out the front rad support was pushed in, which didn't let the fender mount like it should and I jacked that one up opening the door.
Did some electrical work this weekend and finished up today. I wired in two new 12volt outlets and a oil gauge I had laying around. I have about 75psi on start up and 25psi after it warms up. 50-75psi depending on the rpm while driving. I'm running Brad Penn 20w50. Take a look and let me know if something doesn't look safe. I rode around with it today and it didn't skip a beat.
I used a dual post optima I had laying around and used the side post for the power and ground to the fuse block. Should I have put a fuse in the run of the power wire to the fuse block?
Mounted up the fuse block. Really didn't like the location but it was the only spot besides going inside the cab. Which I didn't want to do.
I soldered a 12 gauge wire into the acc wire on the ignition and ran it to a fuse block with 6 outlets. I thought this was a legit way of getting power to run the relays. Let me know if it's not. BTW this is mounted on the bottom of the bar under the dash and is accessible from the glove box.
12volt outlets mounted up. Didn't really like the style of outlets but they were cheap and available at the auto parts store.
Relays mounted up for the outlets. All the power comes from the fuse block under the hood.I used 14gauge wire for everything and grounded everything on the bar under the dash. sh.
Oil gauge mounted and wired in the coin pocket. I have a piece of aluminum cut and ready just need to get the right size hole saw.
Mounted my GPS to the dash.
I also installed a set of bilsteins on the rear a couple months ago. Helped out alot. Still have to install some extended brake lines.
Did some electrical work this weekend and finished up today. I wired in two new 12volt outlets and a oil gauge I had laying around. I have about 75psi on start up and 25psi after it warms up. 50-75psi depending on the rpm while driving. I'm running Brad Penn 20w50. Take a look and let me know if something doesn't look safe. I rode around with it today and it didn't skip a beat.
I used a dual post optima I had laying around and used the side post for the power and ground to the fuse block. Should I have put a fuse in the run of the power wire to the fuse block?
Mounted up the fuse block. Really didn't like the location but it was the only spot besides going inside the cab. Which I didn't want to do.
I soldered a 12 gauge wire into the acc wire on the ignition and ran it to a fuse block with 6 outlets. I thought this was a legit way of getting power to run the relays. Let me know if it's not. BTW this is mounted on the bottom of the bar under the dash and is accessible from the glove box.
12volt outlets mounted up. Didn't really like the style of outlets but they were cheap and available at the auto parts store.
Relays mounted up for the outlets. All the power comes from the fuse block under the hood.I used 14gauge wire for everything and grounded everything on the bar under the dash. sh.
Oil gauge mounted and wired in the coin pocket. I have a piece of aluminum cut and ready just need to get the right size hole saw.
Mounted my GPS to the dash.
I also installed a set of bilsteins on the rear a couple months ago. Helped out alot. Still have to install some extended brake lines.
Last edited by richf; 10-24-2011 at 05:10 PM.