My First 1981 Toyota SR5

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Jan 25, 2016 | 03:28 PM
  #41  
Sorry to burst your bubble, but that black choke element cover shows it's not a european weber (http://genuineweber.blogspot.ca/). And I don't know why you would want another transmission unless you drag race a lot and want to push more than 200whp, anything other than the L-series will require a relocated crossmember and driveshaft modification, the l52 is usually plenty strong even for off-roaders and crawlers.
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Jan 25, 2016 | 04:55 PM
  #42  
Quote: Sorry to burst your bubble, but that black choke element cover shows it's not a european weber (http://genuineweber.blogspot.ca/). And I don't know why you would want another transmission unless you drag race a lot and want to push more than 200whp, anything other than the L-series will require a relocated crossmember and driveshaft modification, the l52 is usually plenty strong even for off-roaders and crawlers.


Not sure why you think you are going to "burst" my bubble. I have no bubble to burst.
Just posting the progress of my truck is all. and as for the transmission I was just asking. Sorry to have crawled under your skin
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Jan 25, 2016 | 05:51 PM
  #43  
I didn't mean anything I said in a bad way at all, just trying to help as I did with previous posts on your build thread which I enjoy. You said you were waiting for an italian weber, then said there are no chinese knock off parts on your engine build, then I pointed out that your carb was a chinese made ''weber'' with a link you can use to spot the differences. Maybe the ''bursting bubble'' saying doesn't mean the same thing in my language.
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Jan 27, 2016 | 05:29 PM
  #44  

Got the wheels in and installed tonight. 205/70/15. Truck looks so much better ;-)
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Jan 29, 2016 | 11:32 AM
  #45  
Quote: Sorry to burst your bubble, but that black choke element cover shows it's not a european weber (http://genuineweber.blogspot.ca/). And I don't know why you would want another transmission unless you drag race a lot and want to push more than 200whp, anything other than the L-series will require a relocated crossmember and driveshaft modification, the l52 is usually plenty strong even for off-roaders and crawlers.
Did a bit more checking into this issue and after contacting the company that the work was preformed at I questioned the owner and to his knowledge a genuine Weber was sent. I pointed out the facts that you showed me. He's ordering me in the proper and real Weber. Thanks! I would have gotten bent a bit and not even known it
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Jan 29, 2016 | 12:17 PM
  #46  
Glad it could help you, keep us posted! I like the wheels a lot more.
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Jan 29, 2016 | 12:21 PM
  #47  
Quote: Glad it could help you, keep us posted! I like the wheels a lot more.
The wheels before was normal car wheels. Couldn't find anything at that time and wanted something NOW!!

Three trips to the tire store and that was the best choice out there and they nailed it this time. Looks more like a trunk now
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Jan 29, 2016 | 02:42 PM
  #48  
Forgot to mention, the cheapest place I found, shipping included, for my genuine weber 38 was from here http://www.carburetion.com/.
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Feb 2, 2016 | 03:03 PM
  #49  


Finally going to get a rear bumper installed today.
This truck never came with one , but its has one now
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Feb 13, 2016 | 10:58 AM
  #50  


Just got the valve cover back last night after being powder coated and installed. Of course I had to get a small yellow filter on top but this one is a bit to big darn it! and bye bye to all the smog crap that was on the fender
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Feb 16, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #51  
NICE!! I love seeing the finely de-smogged 22R! All you need now is the LCE billet wire loom kit and a billet battery tie down and you'll have a yellow version of my engine compartment:
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Feb 16, 2016 | 12:30 PM
  #52  
Quote: NICE!! I love seeing the finely de-smogged 22R! All you need now is the LCE billet wire loom kit and a billet battery tie down and you'll have a yellow version of my engine compartment:
Actually I've been in Ebay looking for billet wire loom kit I grew up in the 70's and 80's when aluminum and chrome was in style. My motors used to glisten and 40 years later still doing it just on smaller rigs. I need to get rid of the throttle linkage, I've been looking for the style you have...why Toyota did it that way is beyond me
I need more yellow and to
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Feb 16, 2016 | 12:59 PM
  #53  
I just saw the PM you sent me. My throttle linkage is the stock 4WD linkage. On the 2WD models, the linkage came off of the firewall. Poor design since the engine inherently torques when you hit the gas thus the linkage moves disproportionately as well. Go out and find a throttle linkage for a 4WD 22R. It'll be direct bolt on if you get the bracket that goes on the valve cover and the throttle pivoting cam. Here are some pictures of mine if it helps isolate what you need:

You'll need the triangular shaped bracket on the head directly behind the PCV hose:
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And the throttle linkage pivoting cab mounted to the manifold directly behind the carb:
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I'm not sure if there are any differences, but you may also need a 4WD throttle cable. And you will need some spacers to align the throttle linkage to the same height as the carb. I hope this helps!


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Feb 16, 2016 | 01:26 PM
  #54  
Yes...that's Awesome. Finding it I think is going to be the hard part. I have 3 days until the Weber comes in so I hope I have everything ready. I think all the junk yards here in Springfield/Eugene area pulls the engines and transmissions so finding them might be tough. Its nice to see others doing what I've done all my life, as in a perfectly clean engine compartment. My honey just shakes her head how many hours I sit there out there under the hood with rag and cleaner in hand, it can only look so good knowing this is the stock weird yellow under the hood. Its never been painted but it shines like hell
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Feb 18, 2016 | 09:24 AM
  #55  




Just got the new carb in this morning and its a real Weber this time. Thanks for your help Dave

Just went out for the test drive with no adjustments and the truck runs AWESOME. Feels like twice the power after having that crapper on as long as I did. Feels good for a Toyota..this is my first time restoring a rig
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Feb 26, 2016 | 04:24 AM
  #56  
Crawled up under my truck this morning and after a bit of scrubbing this is how it turned out, looks good for being the original paint under here. Got to get back under there and get the underside of the bed scrubbed and degrease the transmission and frame rails. This was originally a California truck that was brought here a few years ago. No rust anywhere but the little that was hiding at the tailgate area that was cut out








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Mar 1, 2016 | 07:58 AM
  #57  
Just dropped the truck off to get the seats re upholstered and the door panel recovered in black cloth, also a new sewn in carpet kit made. Should be getting it back tomorrow. Will post the pictures tomorrow...can't wait for that new car smell again
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Mar 5, 2016 | 09:04 AM
  #58  

The header arrived yesterday...ordered a shorty this time knowing the one the Toyota Engine place installed was to long and was rubbing up against the strut rod<-- (I believe this is what it's called) causing an annoying rattle. Looks like it's going to get another new exhaust system as well that is as soon as the interior is done. I was told It will was going to be done today and I can't wait. It kills me not being able to drive my baby
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Mar 5, 2016 | 05:12 PM
  #59  




Seats, carpet and door panels completed. Black on black with Yellow stitching
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Mar 7, 2016 | 05:44 AM
  #60  
Not too shabby! Looks like they added some bolsters to the seats - Were those the original seats?
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