Elrob's 79 rusty rehab
#1
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Elrob's 79 rusty rehab
Well, it's official. Today I purchased a 79 Hilux. Ended up getting a pretty sweet deal and the guy also threw in some brand new 5.29s and install kits from Yukon. No complaints there. Now a little backstory on the truck. (Since everyone likes a story)
The truck was originally from Oklahoma and purchased by a man in south Mississippi for his grandson. Due to the timeline I out together, this happened around 2008. The PO drove the truck until he went to college 4 years ago and then the truck sat. It was used sparingly throughout the time and I believe at one point it sat unmoved for at least 2 years. Somewhere around 2 years ago, the PO decided he was going to "fix up the truck". It had developed some cab floor rust as well as front fender and various spots around the cab.
The motor became seized at some point as well during this time. According to the PO, and the receipts, he spent in excess of 4k on the trucks running gear and body mounts. In my opinion, he was extremely ripped off. (For 4k, this truck should look much better.) These expenses included:
New crate 20r from advance auto.
Ac removed
Weber carb
Long tube header and glass pack
Crane electronic ignition
Electric fan conversion
Body mount bushings replaced
Sway bar bushings
New shocks
Tie rod ends
Rebuilt l43 from marlin
Some cab floor work on the passenger side.
So as you can see, according to those aforementioned things, the truck should be in pretty good shape. And for what I paid for it, I got a really good deal.
The PO was tired of dealing with it, plus he is in college and cash never hurts.
The truck is not running smoothly, and I have my doubts ab the l43 ever being rebuilt. Initial plans are to tune the carb/clean up the engine bay. Install exhaust.
Replace the l43 with an l52 or possibly w56. Repair cab floor.
Replace door lock cylinders.
Replace steering column switches and mechanics.
One of the cool things ab this truck is that it has factory power steering, and an even more rare option of a factory cb. It was also originally an ac equipped truck, and that may become a long term goal to get working again.
I'm not a mechanic or fabricator, just a guy who likes to tinker and build things. I've always done my own maintenance on my vehicles, and wanted an older toyota to play with. While the project overall is above my current capabilities, there is no timeline for this to be completed and will do what I can while learning along the way.
I'll post pictures when I can get to a computer, the app doesn't seem to be uploading pictures for some reason.
The truck was originally from Oklahoma and purchased by a man in south Mississippi for his grandson. Due to the timeline I out together, this happened around 2008. The PO drove the truck until he went to college 4 years ago and then the truck sat. It was used sparingly throughout the time and I believe at one point it sat unmoved for at least 2 years. Somewhere around 2 years ago, the PO decided he was going to "fix up the truck". It had developed some cab floor rust as well as front fender and various spots around the cab.
The motor became seized at some point as well during this time. According to the PO, and the receipts, he spent in excess of 4k on the trucks running gear and body mounts. In my opinion, he was extremely ripped off. (For 4k, this truck should look much better.) These expenses included:
New crate 20r from advance auto.
Ac removed
Weber carb
Long tube header and glass pack
Crane electronic ignition
Electric fan conversion
Body mount bushings replaced
Sway bar bushings
New shocks
Tie rod ends
Rebuilt l43 from marlin
Some cab floor work on the passenger side.
So as you can see, according to those aforementioned things, the truck should be in pretty good shape. And for what I paid for it, I got a really good deal.
The PO was tired of dealing with it, plus he is in college and cash never hurts.
The truck is not running smoothly, and I have my doubts ab the l43 ever being rebuilt. Initial plans are to tune the carb/clean up the engine bay. Install exhaust.
Replace the l43 with an l52 or possibly w56. Repair cab floor.
Replace door lock cylinders.
Replace steering column switches and mechanics.
One of the cool things ab this truck is that it has factory power steering, and an even more rare option of a factory cb. It was also originally an ac equipped truck, and that may become a long term goal to get working again.
I'm not a mechanic or fabricator, just a guy who likes to tinker and build things. I've always done my own maintenance on my vehicles, and wanted an older toyota to play with. While the project overall is above my current capabilities, there is no timeline for this to be completed and will do what I can while learning along the way.
I'll post pictures when I can get to a computer, the app doesn't seem to be uploading pictures for some reason.
#2
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App seems to be working but giving me an error message.
A few pictures of the cab floor rust and the drip rail and body rust.
Removing the drip rails looks like the easiest bet here, and patching the larger holes where possible.
Fiberglass fenders will be going on as well.
Only the front part of the cab floors need replacing, body mounts and frame are in good shape.
A few pictures of the cab floor rust and the drip rail and body rust.
Removing the drip rails looks like the easiest bet here, and patching the larger holes where possible.
Fiberglass fenders will be going on as well.
Only the front part of the cab floors need replacing, body mounts and frame are in good shape.
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#8
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Little update.
Decided to put some sea foam in the tank to clean things up and ended up going through two fuel filters.
That was on Sunday. Last night I went to go fire it up and couldn't get it to start. Fuel filter wasn't letting any fuel through.
Removed the fuel filter to see if the pump was working and barely got a dribble.
Looks like that seafoam broke down some nastiness in the tank and clogged something up.
So this weekend I'll be taking off the bed and dropping the tank to clean flush the lines.
Any recommendations for cleaning the tank?
Decided to put some sea foam in the tank to clean things up and ended up going through two fuel filters.
That was on Sunday. Last night I went to go fire it up and couldn't get it to start. Fuel filter wasn't letting any fuel through.
Removed the fuel filter to see if the pump was working and barely got a dribble.
Looks like that seafoam broke down some nastiness in the tank and clogged something up.
So this weekend I'll be taking off the bed and dropping the tank to clean flush the lines.
Any recommendations for cleaning the tank?
#9
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Order an in tank sock filter from your toyota dealer, they are cheap it happens often that they desintegrate or clog, anyways afyer 35yrs it should be replaced anyway.. To clean the tank you can take a handful or two of small rocks, bolts or ball bearing with some white vinegar and slosh it around for a while, this should break lose all the rust flaking on the walls of the tank, then rinse with fuel. Don't forget to note which line goes where before you remove them. Also clean and blow all the lines, change the fuel filter (s) and all should be good. I prefered to remove the bed to have access to the fuel tank but you don't need to.
#14
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Well, after thinking fuel lines were blocked, looks like all it needed was a little gas. Sending unit isn't working, so I was only guessing by how much should have been in there. It also doesn't help that the tank drain hole was leaking a little. After putting a few gallons in and changing filters, it started right up. Now that I've got the truck back in my garage, I've drained the tank again, since it won't be moving for a while. I'll be taking off the carb and checking all vacuum lines this evening. Although it's running better, I'm 99% sure it's sucking air in where the carb sits on the manifold. Also, the lce kit will be coming along with a few other things.
I'm really trying to go without removing the engine since it's rather new. Although the trans is a different story. I knew the l43 was sloppy, but jeez this thing is ridiculous. Plans are to get that out of there as soon as the bed is off. Now I need some advice. Since I won't be removing the motor, what's the best way to clean the engine bay with it still in there?
Here are some pictures of the engine bay
I'm really trying to go without removing the engine since it's rather new. Although the trans is a different story. I knew the l43 was sloppy, but jeez this thing is ridiculous. Plans are to get that out of there as soon as the bed is off. Now I need some advice. Since I won't be removing the motor, what's the best way to clean the engine bay with it still in there?
Here are some pictures of the engine bay
Last edited by ElRob; 04-13-2014 at 11:54 AM.
#15
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industrial degreaser and high pressure steam is the ideal way to clean a bay up.
otherwise....engine bright cleaner and elbow grease work too...but slower.
otherwise....engine bright cleaner and elbow grease work too...but slower.
#16
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last night I removed the weber. upon further inspection, the linkage that opens the secondary barrel was not connected. easy to see why it would rev right. also, there was a bolt holding the carb down that was too short instead of a stud. Im pretty sure I found my air leak.
Im tentative to pulling the intake manifold since I know they can be finicky to get to seal properly, but I think its a must, especially to get it cleaned up.
Can anyone tell me why i should or shouldnt use the water block off kit? I cant seem to find why its actually used. Is it just simplicity?
Im tentative to pulling the intake manifold since I know they can be finicky to get to seal properly, but I think its a must, especially to get it cleaned up.
Can anyone tell me why i should or shouldnt use the water block off kit? I cant seem to find why its actually used. Is it just simplicity?
#18
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Looks like a great project in the making. The tanks can get in bad shape. I clean mine by soaking them in white vinegar for a few days and then I let the tank dry and blow out and vacuum out as much of the red dust that will be left behind. After it is cleaned out you can coat the tank with Red Kote. I would suggest soaking your lines with PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil and then blow them out with an air hose. There is a soak on the fuel assembly in the tank that probably needs replaced. It is about $15 at Toyota.
No suggestions on the water block off plate. To clean up the engine bay and a more dependable carb, I would suggest getting a Webber.
No suggestions on the water block off plate. To clean up the engine bay and a more dependable carb, I would suggest getting a Webber.
#19
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I see you are in Pensacola, once this crude thing is ironed maybe Ill take it down to the beach and really make you jealous!
#20
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Looks like a great project in the making. The tanks can get in bad shape. I clean mine by soaking them in white vinegar for a few days and then I let the tank dry and blow out and vacuum out as much of the red dust that will be left behind. After it is cleaned out you can coat the tank with Red Kote. I would suggest soaking your lines with PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil and then blow them out with an air hose. There is a soak on the fuel assembly in the tank that probably needs replaced. It is about $15 at Toyota.
No suggestions on the water block off plate. To clean up the engine bay and a more dependable carb, I would suggest getting a Webber.
No suggestions on the water block off plate. To clean up the engine bay and a more dependable carb, I would suggest getting a Webber.
Ab the Weber, it currently does have a 32/36 on it. Just need to get new gaskets and seal it up when I put it back together.