yeah mt90 to the face isn't awesome lol. i will check them out for sure! i went to toyota earlier today to order my drain plugs and gaskets the lady at the counter printed all of the part numbers with schematics for the ac system. ill post them when i get my ac stuff going, they could order the longer hard line for me for $19 so i told her to get it on the way. I'm gonna try and buy as much new as possible and write up an adding ac thread. it gets really sticky here in the summertime and i want to really drive this truck often. my other three cars have ac no reason i shouldn't add it to this one.

 

agreed. i thought it was pretty interesting. all the smog stuff has to go i think desmoging, weber and header/exhaust are next. before i start digging into a lift/lockers/wheels/tires i want it to run very well without all the bs these California 22r's come with.

 

There is another switch/knob behind the fan control on AC vehicles. Looks like someone pop off the knob and took yours off. Or got a back plate from one with ac and replaced the old one.

 

Good deal, excited to see updates!

 

Truck looks great!

 

Thank you! Posting now

Thank you!

 

Mine doesn't have any knobs missing!? Ordered a new hard line new from toyota I'm gonna try and pull some ac parts this week since I will be on vacation.

 

So I pulled the valve cover off to do my valve adjustment since it was rattling more then it should have been. I've heard these aren't the quietest little engines but I always assume maitanince has not been done. Everything under the cover looked good but as expected valves were way out. I Adjusted them to spec but with a little more drag to get the noise down a bit and it panned out! It sounds and feels very different then it did before I did find some suprises. The plugs were horrible the worst I've ever seen. I did plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. The battery tray has a small hole in it but still very solid I put some rust converter on it and put replaced the battery tie down that was missing. Also, there is a welded spot on top of the intake manifold that was welded closed and there is a small block off plate right next to the exhaust toward the front of the engine. I guess it will work but I'd like to get an unmodified manifold and block it off with a plate. I ordered a new brake cable I have to pickup some hardware to bolt the handle back up to the firewall. Here are some pics!

 

That valvetrain looks REEEALLY good! Very little carbon and sludge build up which means the engine likely never over heated and you shouldn't have any worries of past or near future blow-by issues. Like you said, there is a lot of valve chatter and going a little tight on the valve clearance does help out a bit, but what a lot of people fail to realize is that a good amount of the noise comes from the timing chain and especially the fuel pump. The fuel pump causes that "pssh pssh pssh pssh" sound that is in rhythm with the RPMs. Very hard to get rid of that noise without going to an electric fuel pump which is the major reason what 22RE engines are much quieter.

An important thing that I noticed (or rather DIDN'T notice) under your hood is that I did see the factory fusible links going to the battery. If these were removed, you open yourself to huge electrical problems, perhaps even a fire. You should have three fusible links coming off of the battery. There are two plugs with these fusible links going to them - one plug has one green wire and the other plug has one green and one red wire (they are typically wrapped in a fabric sheathing). The fusible links are like "slow blow" fuses that allow for short spikes in amperage without immediately blowing the fuse like a typical blade fuse in the fuse box. Without these fusible links your alternator or some other accessory could spike and burn up your whole wiring harness. I recently learned a lot about fusible links and I can certainly offer my knowledge to you if you would like. The right fusible wire can be a pain to find so I also have a whole bunch of fusible link wire that I can send to you (free!) so that you can make a couple sections for your harness. Just let me know.

The battery tray will haunt you if it isn't taken care of appropriately. Corey over at ToyotaFiberglass.com makes fiberglass replacement trays that you can use - they are a simple "cut out your old tray and epoxy the new one in" job. At first, I kind of wish I used his tray on my truck after I fabricated my own tray, but then I found this cool battery tie down box for Optima 34/78 batteries. It ended up working out perfectly for me, but it would have been much easier and cheaper to install Corey's tray and go with the factory look.

Here's how I re-fabricated mine if you are interested...
Cut out old tray:


Fabbed new tray (14ga steel and lot of measuring and adjustments to fit):






Filler to smooth and mold it in:


Epoxied and it looked like it belongs there:


Then I found this billet aluminum battery tie down on eBay for $50. I bolted the base of the box to my fabricated battery tray/platform and the rest just bolts right to that. Super secure and clean!




Just some thoughts for you depending on how far you take your battery tray replacement. I'd also highly recommend Optima Batteries - I have never seen one leak. No leaks means no battery tray issues!

 

Thanks for the props Dave ... just want to add 1 more thing . Our treys are 100% chemical resistant , will never succumb to battery acid like steel will


.

 

Yeah, that too!

 

I was just lurking around reading people's build threads while I wait for traffic to die down. I had to chime my two cents in.... Optima batteries are junk! They used to be good but something happened in the last few years and they're all junk now. I had a red top for the last 3 years in my rig. Warrantee it out, three times in three years. The last time it dumped out on me I just went back to 1 battery (same yellow top I've had for 3 years.) and when my 1 yellow top bites it I'll find a new brand. I have 3-4 buddy's that have the same problem. Some time in the last few years Optima change something in the batteries and they just don't last.

 

there built in China now , I've done about 5 warrenty replacements now , and I wont sell em anymore




.

 

^Talk about an angry dude... Sounds to me like you aren't using the proper battery for the your application and/or you have some severe wiring issues if you are going through three batteries in three years. Nonetheless, there are specific uses for each Optima battery color so if you are using it wrong then I won't perform as expected.

 

I like Deka and Duracell; both are manufactured in PA by East Penn. Duracell is available at Batteries Plus. Deka is available shipped to your door from BaltimoreBattery.com.

 

My Uncle swore by interstate, and he used to sell them at his shop when I was a kid. I've never had an issue with them.

In a pinch one winter, I picked up a Deka from NAPA, and I definitely agree with Cabot's suggestion, they're good batteries. With a tired carb, I'd spend a fair amount of time cranking on cold mornings and that cheap Deka just took it like it wasn't an issue, always ran 14.5 volts. Even after my truck got parked while I figured out what to do, and the battery sat around for years and all I had to do was drag the battery from my Corolla over to it, hook them up, and the Deka ran like new. It was hard to believe.

 

Man I missed a few posts here! Thanks for the pics, the tray is actually really solid except in the one corner. If I ever respray under the hood I will weld a patch in to repair it. I've tried to buy two optima batteries in the last both were dead on installation and wouldn't charge.

I collected all of the parts to add ac to the truck except for a seat kit and ac dryer. I had to buy a new hard line and condenser from toyota since they broke when I was pulling them from a salvage yard (on vacation I might add....). I pulled all the parts from an 83 1 ton that was in terrible shape but when I cracked the condenser line it was still pressurized.
I installed a new parking brake cable but the po did not save the c clips that hold the cable into place I cannot find any of these trucks locally to pull parts off of apparently a local salvage yard here has been exporting them into Honduras for several years. If anyone could send me a pic of how their cable connects under the body that would be great!