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Hi folks, picked up my first Toyota this past weekend. Previous rig was a 1996 ZJ Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 with about 5 years in between selling that one and picking this beauty up. I wheeled the Jeep a good bit and really cut my teeth learning a lot with it. This yota will be far more mild, just a fairly stock driver for hauling the occasional lumber and firewood type of deal.
Bought it from a mechanic who in turn got it from the original owner. She's pretty much untouched and that's just the way I like it. 62xxx on the odo but who knows how many times it has made that trip around
I liked the long bed and the fact it's a 4-speed. Would have liked the 5-speed and 4x4 but such is life. I'll have to look into swapping in a 5-speed down the road. I imagine it shouldn't be hard to do, but I don't know if they ever came from the factory with the 20R.
Original paint is in decent enough condition for 40 years old. Roof is the worst of it but I'm probably gonna do some sort of rust treatment and then clear coat it as is.
Edit to add long term plans / goals:
Step 1: get it put back together and running
Pull bed at least and possibly cab, once I get appropriate hoist. Clean and paint frame.
5-speed swap. W50, L50, L52
Pull engine, possible rebuild while swapping trans.
Flat bed. Investigate turning original bed into a dump bed.
Once I run these tires bald, 31" AT will be fine. This is 2WD street only. No off-road for this guy.
Day 1, as it came from the factory. What in tarnation.... I like spaghetti for dinner, not in my engine. Starting to make room.... Need to decide on Shorty or Longtube headers.... Advice on how to clean this up in place? Won't be pulling the motor out just yet.
Think I'm going to pull the intake manifold as well just so I can get clear sight lines and room to work and clean up the whole thing in one shot. Might as well do it all now from the get go. Might even pull the head. That will be new ground for me.
small front end leak grimey exhaust burned a hole in the shock tube not too bad really fresh reman'd Aisin carb. will help recoup some cost for the Weber
Go down to about the 8th page for the pin ID's. I can't read them exactly, but there seem to a large variety of pin-outs for the Nippondenso alternator. IE what pins are where,, and orientation they're in.
What you need to do is identify how the pins are placed where, and what direction the face, on the voltage regulator. Do you have an FSM, or Haynes manual? If so, there should be schematics in the back, so you can identify what pins you have coming out of the alternator, and then look at the old alt to see how they're oriented. Look at the PDF to see what plug matches the pins you have and how they're oriented. Then you know what plug pin-out you need to order.
Is all that about as clear as mud?
As to the little sensor down by the oil filter, I think, although rarely, that it's either the oil pressure sensor, if you have a gauge, or switch fro the idiot lit the comes on when the oil pressure is too low.
Thanks! Yes clear as mud indeed, haha. I do have both the FSM in pdf form and a paper copy of the Haynes book so I'll look them both over.
No oil gauge so if it's just for the dash light I'll probably just plug it off. I'm a big fan of keep it as simple/clean as possible.
Have all the block off plates from LCE ordered as well as some headers. Just deciding if I want to swap the water pump and alt right now while I'm doing this or not. It's all running so I guess I should leave well enough alone.
No oil gauge so if it's just for the dash light I'll probably just plug it off. I'm a big fan of keep it as simple/clean as possible.
Well, I always thought there was a reason they're called "idiot lights".
By the same token, SOME kind of indication of a low oil pressure condition might be a good idea. I've had an oil pump fail on the highway, and the first indication was the oil pressure idiot light. If it hadn't alerted me, how far might I have driven with no oil in the engine? Until the engine seized up solid? I was able to shut the engine off and coast to a stop before any real damage occurred. I replace the two seals in the oil pump, the main crank seal and the pump's ORing, refilled the oil, changed the filter, and away I went. A lot better than changing out an entire engine!
Yeah that's true, I might have to accept it for the greater good. Would be a silly reason to blow up the engine should the oil pump fail.
I think I'm going to take the bed off the frame since it only seems like a few bolts and none appear to be rusted too bad. Hopefully that goes smoothly. Need to decide what kind of protection I want to spray on the rails and under carriage.
I've never done it, as my truck is still in great condition, but I understand Rhino Lining, or some other spray/paint on type bed liner works extremely well for that sort of thing.
There is also the famous Z-Bart rust preventer the auto companies spray on the undersides of the newer model cars.
Some paint/body shops can/will do this kind of stuff, and can advise you of the best/most affordable, which may or may not match up, methods to use.
Nice lookin truck you have there. I have a line on an '80 3/4 ton like yours that is a month older than me. Might pick it up to fix n flip or might pass, not sure yet.
progress looks good and while you are cleaning it up and going through it you might as well change the water pump out since your most of the way there and will get a good look at the insides while there.
Good luck and keep the progress going.
Hey thanks. No real progress yet but hopefully this weekend I can at least get the block and head cleaned up a bit and start to figure out where all the block off plates and plugs go. If I get far enough along I might put the manifolds back on.
Well I did get the intake cleaned up and all plugs installed. The vacuum on the front left is for the brake booster and then the only other vac line needed will be from the distributor to the Weber. I do need to pull the manifold off to install the water block off plate in the middle of the head along with the gasket.
Feb 10, 2020 | 05:18 AM
