pulled the throttle cable and brackets as I’m going to rig up something more simple for the Weber carb. Maybe a solid linkage like in the video above if I can get ahold of one.

Installed both manifolds. There is some sort of flange/bracket installed on the bellhousing that might interfere with the exhaust pipe, not sure yet. Can’t really figure out why it is there at all.

Also trying to determine what this is for in the last 2 pictures, and why it goes from hard line to a short section of hose, back into hardline into the transmission. What is that about?

 

Good luck with the throttle cable. Always seems like there’s more moving parts for something that is really quite a simple operation.
Yeah, not sure about the bracket on the bell housing, unless it was part of a hanger for the old exhaust?
The last 2 pics is the line to the clutch slave & the rubber hose allows for flex.

Keep up the progress!

Oh, ya gotta do something special for the valve cover...

 

Thanks Ivan. I'll need to get a better look at the clutch slave. Honestly not very familiar with how it works. Eventually I'm going to swap in a 5-speed once I find a good donor.

I assume there's a reason why it goes back to hard line clutch side? Could you not just run hose the remainder of the way?

 

Gotta figure out how to attach the throttle cable. After that, not much else left to do. Plumb in the fuel filter and pressure regulator and reinstall the radiator and hoses. Pretty much it. I'll have to buy a timing light.

 

Started to install the new fuel pressure regulator. PO had installed an electric fuel pump. Do I have this order correct?

filter > pump > regulator > carb.

 

Ok I’ve hooked them up and while it’s a bit messy I’d just like to get it running first and then I’ll work out a cleaner arrangement. I’ve read it’s better to mount the pump close to the fuel tank for some reason? So I might move that in the future.

 

Fire that thing up!!!

 

Yep just about. Radiator is going back in tonight after work. I kind of stupidly took the distributor out of the head while I was in tear down phase just to see what it's like.So it may not go back in the exact alignment it was. I have a timing light on order so hopefully I can get it all fixed up with that. I understand the 20R is a non-interference motor so at least I'm not too paranoid about really mucking something up.

 

Pop your valve cover off and determine TDC so you know where the dist goes back in.
you can find tdc on the front timing cover crank notch but id look at the valves just to be sure.
besides, its cool and youll get to see the inside of your motor.

 

Also...

Rubber hydraulic lines go bad. Idk why it goes from metal to rubber and back but less rubber is better. Especially 40 yr old rubber.

And fuel pumps push fuel better than they pull, is how i understand the fuel pump being placed closer to the tank question.

What did you do with the throttle cable? You could probably fab a metal rod with a threaded end to adjust. I agree, the rod seems sturdier than a cable, or maybe just cooler

 

Timing light arrived so I'll have that on hand. I think I'm just going to see if I can crank it up and see what happens and adjust from there.

Yeah I will eventually replace the pump and place it back towards the tank. I like as clean/simple engine bay as possible.

 

Cracked the goose neck tightening it down. Good grief.

Fuel pump works, it cranks but get a real low WUMP WUMP WUMP sound.

 

What happens when you spray some starter fluid down the carb?


The choke wire needs a female spade connector, you had it plugged in with a male. Im not here to judge that sort of thing one way or the other but something abt it just dont seem right.

 

OK...as swampedout mentioned a few posts up, you might get your timing “closer” visually first by taking the valve cover off & finding TDC (remember, the dot on the pulley rotates twice per crank rotation, or something like that?). You’ll need to pull the #1 spark plug & stick something (wooden dowel) down the hole so you can tell when the piston is at the top of the stroke. If you’re not close with your timing, the bitch just won’t start.

Try that other loose wire you have there on the choke. It might be warm temperature wise, but it’s amazing what a little choking will make things do.

l think l have a spare (NIB) water neck (gooseneck) if you want it?

Keep us posed & thanks for the video! We feel your pain.

Oh, l like your seat! 👍

 

Thanks guys, I'll try some starter fluid today and report back.

Yeah the second spade connector had the plastic connector break off. So it might be that one for the choke.

My reasoning is, I drove it home and parked it where it is, so I thought having it at TDC wouldn't matter when I went to start it up? Either way I'll go ahead and pull the cover and get acquainted. I know it's basic stuff but I've never had to bother with it before.

 

If you pull3d your distributor and put it back in the exact same orientation, youre good.
otherwise you need to find tdc and set the rotor so it points at number 1 spark wire.

 

But like ivan said, the other way to determine tdc is with a dowel in the compression chamber where you literally feel the piston reaching its highest point.

 

Shot some starting fluid down the carb but no real difference. It cranks but won’t fire. I’m going to have to find TDC and realign the distributor I guess. I know in principle it’s pretty straight forward but I just haven’t wrapped my head around it yet.

The wire for the choke is nearly coming apart so I also need to strip that and rewire it.

 

Pulled the valve cover off and am turning crank by hand. I can see it line up the timing mark twice per rotation. Trying to figure out which is the compression stroke.

 

OK, pull the plug out of #1 cylinder & if you don”t want to stick something down the hole, get a flashlight so you can see when the piston comes up to the top of the stroke. That will be your compression stroke so you can get your TDC marks lined up. Then take a look at your rotor & see if it’s pointing to the #1 plug wire position of your distributor cap. If this info is wrong...someone will be by shortly to correct me. 🤔

If everything looks correct...on to more troubleshooting...