FS[GreatLakes]: [MI] 1987 SR5 4x4 22RE MT xtra cab with Aftermarket Box
01-19-2018, 10:00 PM
#22
Trans + transfer case I'd do $200 on. Shipping is a bit of a pain due to my location. The best options I have are Fedex and UPS, no real freight options around that I'm aware of and I don't have a loading dock. A quick search shows the transmission + transfer-case is about 180lbs. I'd probably have to buy a pallet and strap the transmission down to that and ship based on that size/weight. I'd need your zip code and if you have a loading dock (or fork truck) at the drop off location.
Pickup and drop off I put as residential and used a random zip in Utah to get an idea on price. 200lbs total (to give some room for pallet) and class 100 is quoted to me as $615.04. If you have a loading dock/fork truck then it drops to $495. If I had a loading dock it would be $120 less. Still really expensive, but the distance away is pretty high. If you're closer it's cheaper, if you're farther than it's more. I'm not really experienced shipping freight, so maybe the class I picked is wrong or I don't have something entered right that is making it balloon in price. Maybe UPS is just really expensive on freight and Fedex is cheaper.
Pickup and drop off I put as residential and used a random zip in Utah to get an idea on price. 200lbs total (to give some room for pallet) and class 100 is quoted to me as $615.04. If you have a loading dock/fork truck then it drops to $495. If I had a loading dock it would be $120 less. Still really expensive, but the distance away is pretty high. If you're closer it's cheaper, if you're farther than it's more. I'm not really experienced shipping freight, so maybe the class I picked is wrong or I don't have something entered right that is making it balloon in price. Maybe UPS is just really expensive on freight and Fedex is cheaper.
06-20-2018, 05:05 PM
#27
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06-20-2018, 06:22 PM
#28
Pretty sure all the ac compressors went with the engines I sold about a year ago, haven't gotten another 22r/re since then. What year of sunroof do you need? The one in the 87 pickup is cracked. I have a 1989 one, but that's the 1989-1985 body style.
06-20-2018, 11:26 PM
#30
89 4runners were the same body style as 88 and older, but it's kind of a one off year for electronics and such. Body wise, 1990 is when they updated to the 89-95 pickup era. I removed the full sunroof with the body trim and plates to hold it in, so in theory if it's as bit or bigger than the older style, you could cut the hole to match and have the right mounting hardware. The only thing I don't have to match is the headliner, it was trashed in the truck it came from.
Anyway, there's a major body difference between the 1st gen and 2nd gen 4runner, the back half of the roof is removable on the first gen, no other body styles had that. I think it's the only one with the factory roll bar above the rear wheels too.
If you live near mid Michigan area, you could come and check it out, or even test fit it. It seems all of the Toyota/Lexus sunroofs are similar size/shape, but never tried to test interchangeability of them.
Anyway, there's a major body difference between the 1st gen and 2nd gen 4runner, the back half of the roof is removable on the first gen, no other body styles had that. I think it's the only one with the factory roll bar above the rear wheels too.
If you live near mid Michigan area, you could come and check it out, or even test fit it. It seems all of the Toyota/Lexus sunroofs are similar size/shape, but never tried to test interchangeability of them.
06-21-2018, 06:52 PM
#31
Registered User
Probably already taken but I am looking for power window switches if you had them in there. Also looking for a non-cracked passenger armrest and center console
Pm Me please if you got any of those
Pm Me please if you got any of those
09-07-2018, 07:16 AM
#34
I have a 93 4x4 22re pickup, would the front diff mounting bolts be the same?? The 2 that are verticle, i need one, it seems one of mine have fallen out.
Also, the little black plastic thing that stops the door from flying fully open unhinged. The thing that stops the door at 2-3 spots in newer cars, i need the drivers side one (if theyre any different).
And lastly, a blue ashtray (just the ashtray)?
Also, the little black plastic thing that stops the door from flying fully open unhinged. The thing that stops the door at 2-3 spots in newer cars, i need the drivers side one (if theyre any different).
And lastly, a blue ashtray (just the ashtray)?
Last edited by Jakez; 09-07-2018 at 07:19 AM.
09-07-2018, 10:31 AM
#35
I'll have to check if I have any of the front diff bolts, I live in Michigan, so road salt is a major problem here (rust on everything). I have 89-95 parts trucks so I'll have the right parts, but pretty positive all IFS front axle trucks/4runners are the same mounting, ADD vs hub lockers might be slightly different shape but from memory they are a direct interchange still. This also goes for the T100 that's based on the older platform. Tacoma and up the drive shaft was on the opposite side.
Also wouldn't hurt to double check the front bolt on the diff cover too. Probably should check the torque on the bolts if one fell out, maybe the diff was dropped down before and the person installed it with out torquing down the bolts enough. I've met too many people that thinks 20ft/lbs of torque is enough for lug nuts. Hate to say it, but also checking the CV axle bolts might be a good idea too. I don't have torque specs on hand, but the 3 main mounting bolts are big, so you'd want it quite tight. CV axle bolts are similar so I'd assume a fairly lot of torque too, I know removing them they are always very tight to break loose lol.
I should have one of the door stops around or what ever you'd want to call them. The 84-88 style is metal and completely different, but like I said I have the right era of parts anyway. You'll have to take the door panel off to replace it as an FYI. Once the bolts are removed, it goes into the door then out the hole the door panel is covering. Also a small FYI, my dad's 1972 Olds Cutlass had the style that stopped in 2-3 spots, not exactly a new design/idea
.
All of my 89-95 parts trucks have been gray or tan interior, you could paint the ashtray if you wanted to give it a shot. Color matching might be a little hard though. I'll get some photos up when I get a chance to pull the parts.
Also wouldn't hurt to double check the front bolt on the diff cover too. Probably should check the torque on the bolts if one fell out, maybe the diff was dropped down before and the person installed it with out torquing down the bolts enough. I've met too many people that thinks 20ft/lbs of torque is enough for lug nuts. Hate to say it, but also checking the CV axle bolts might be a good idea too. I don't have torque specs on hand, but the 3 main mounting bolts are big, so you'd want it quite tight. CV axle bolts are similar so I'd assume a fairly lot of torque too, I know removing them they are always very tight to break loose lol.
I should have one of the door stops around or what ever you'd want to call them. The 84-88 style is metal and completely different, but like I said I have the right era of parts anyway. You'll have to take the door panel off to replace it as an FYI. Once the bolts are removed, it goes into the door then out the hole the door panel is covering. Also a small FYI, my dad's 1972 Olds Cutlass had the style that stopped in 2-3 spots, not exactly a new design/idea
.All of my 89-95 parts trucks have been gray or tan interior, you could paint the ashtray if you wanted to give it a shot. Color matching might be a little hard though. I'll get some photos up when I get a chance to pull the parts.
09-11-2018, 02:56 PM
#36
Just wanted to give an update, the 104k mile truck's front diff bolts are pretty toast, mainly the nut on top being rusted out. Sadly the door stopper on it is broken too, I have another 2wd truck out back, pretty sure it's door stop is still good. I have more around from past trucks but they'd be in a box somewhere in one of my 5 sheds of parts lol.
09-13-2018, 10:51 AM
#38
@Jakez
I got the part pulled, good news is, it's from an older truck (1991), and it seems they used all metal back then. Compared to my 93 it looks to mount up the same and everything so it should be an upgrade over what stock was for your truck. I have the passenger side as well from the same truck if you wanted a matching pair. Photo attached to show what it looks like.
@jetfoi
The glass is broken, not sure what exactly you was looking to get, the whole assembly to add a sun roof to your vehicle, or parts to repair your existing sun roof? Being a fairly large and heavy item, shipping would be quite killer, without the glass it might not be too bad.
I got the part pulled, good news is, it's from an older truck (1991), and it seems they used all metal back then. Compared to my 93 it looks to mount up the same and everything so it should be an upgrade over what stock was for your truck. I have the passenger side as well from the same truck if you wanted a matching pair. Photo attached to show what it looks like.
@jetfoi
The glass is broken, not sure what exactly you was looking to get, the whole assembly to add a sun roof to your vehicle, or parts to repair your existing sun roof? Being a fairly large and heavy item, shipping would be quite killer, without the glass it might not be too bad.
09-21-2018, 12:36 PM
#40
Might want to see the shipping quote above for a transmission, it is really expensive for large items. Anyway, I sold the box like a year ago, they don't last long in Michigan since we have major rust problems from road salt and calcium chloride.
