Cycling Mountain biking, road biking, any type of pedal powered biking

Getting in the mood again for a mountain bike

Old Aug 3, 2009 | 06:04 AM
  #121  
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Lube and degrease.
When I got the bike, the shop recommended Finish Line Dry Lubricant With Teflon.
http://centercycle.com/itemdetails.cfm?libid=44575

They said to use one drop per chain link.



I use to have a nice cleaning system, but it is lost, I can not find it.
Does this one by Park look OK?
http://centercycle.com/itemdetails.cfm?libid=40768



And for extra degreaser, what about this one?
http://centercycle.com/itemdetails.cfm?libid=44588



I guess I better stock up on newspaper so I can put it out on the deck below the new bike repair stand when I go to clean/lube the stuff.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:19 AM
  #122  
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Best degreaser and chain cleaner come in a package made by white lightning. It is called clean streak and it has a clip on chain cleaner that works really well and is super easy to use. And the degreaser is the best out there as well.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 09:58 AM
  #123  
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found it.
http://www.whitelightningco.com/

I found the Clean Streak
http://www.whitelightningco.com/prod...ean-streak.htm
but not a kit where you pour in the degreaser and run the pedals to cycle the chain through a bath.

Interesting on the main page they talk about a lube called Clean Ride
http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/index.htm
that sheds dirt.

Oh, found the other thing, it is called the Trigger Chain Cleaning System.
http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/trigger.htm



Looks interesting.
I think I will try to order some of their stuff.
I take it I may have to degrease first, although all of my parts are clean before I put on their Clean Ride lube?
_________________________
Edit
Local shop only has the lube.
REI has it all.

Lube
http://www.rei.com/product/704422

Degreaser
http://www.rei.com/product/664464

Trigger system and can
http://www.rei.com/product/724952

Placed my order, should be here Wednesday.
Thanks for the tip on that brand.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:45 PM
  #124  
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Yeah, it's good to degrease and clean the chain before you apply fresh lube. But that sticky stuff that comes from the factory on the chain is the est stuff for your chain, so you wanna leave that on for as long as possible.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 12:41 AM
  #125  
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Thanks.
I will more than likely run the factory chain lube until I get back from my vacation.

My bike is going to be getting pretty dirty up where I am am going camping for a week, so I will get the bike all washed up and degreased when I get back.

That new repair stand is good for washing a bike on too I have read, just have to be a little careful around the scale on top.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #126  
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Trainers

http://centercycle.com/itemlist.cfm?category=45

Any of them work where they do not wear out the back tire, and how easy are they to hook up.

I have only seen them long ago in the Performance Bike catalogs.
Just got back on their mailing list too.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #127  
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They all wear the tire, but far more slowly than road/trail riding and you'll never get a flat! The bike and rider weight are supported by the axle clamp. The roller is spring loaded and presses lightly against the tire.

Easy to hook up with the correct skewer ($5 max.), screw the clamp down tightly, release the roller that was held open by a latch, put a book or something under the front wheel to level and go.

Avoid the noisy wind trainers. I use a fluid trainer not shown. Quiet is good so you can watch TV or listen to radio or music while spinning.

Get one with the widest footprint or it will be unstable. Eventually you'll want to interval train and that means standing and/or spinning at a high cadence, both tending to make the trainer wobbly.

And get a big floor fan aimed at your face and chest, a towel to protect the headset and bottom bracket from sweat, a TV tray for putting a water bottle and remote control within easy reach and bike specific headbands that fit under your helmet.

Mine has about 8,000 trouble-free miles on it. I train for the riding season beginning in February. By March I'm road ready, easily spin at my sweet spot (90-100 rpm), am more stable and faster than I'd be without a trainer.

Here's mine. Looks like it's on sale at Performance now:

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...00_20000_23010

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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 01:47 PM
  #128  
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My rig:

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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #129  
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Thanks Bob.
I see your book, and I see blocks here too.
http://centercycle.com/itemdetails.cfm?libid=41034

Is that a Nordic Track Pro?
I had two of them.
One at my house before my first layoff, then I sold it, then later bought another for my apartment.

The first one I went from around 200 lb to 150 in about six weeks, and a 31" waist.
That was back around '92 or '93.
Using it and powerwalking my neighborhood five nights a week for twenty to thirty minutes the extra weight just peeled off.
I never felt better.
Not as easy to loose it now.

I am serious about this bike thing, and a trainer will help during the winter time for sure.
Plenty of room to set it up in front of the LCD and ride.

So you need a skewer to hook the bike up to the trainer?
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 02:09 PM
  #130  
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Yep, NordicTrac Pro, my fourth.

I noticed my trainer linked now comes with a skewer supplied.

Be sure to get a slick for the rear once you come indoors for the Winter. Much smoother and cheaper than a MTB tire and any brand and approximate size will work.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 02:34 PM
  #131  
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So I need to buy a new wheel and tire setup then?
Ah shoot, the cassette is mounted to it too.

I probably would not do the slick setup, as I also plan on taking my bike outdoors in the winter in the snow, plus the sixteen days I have off for Christmas break, I would want the beefyboy tire on there to ride outside.

PS, I still have three tapes from Nordic Track that I use to ski to.
Have not had a VHS in ages.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 02:57 PM
  #132  
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No need for a new wheel, though it would make things quicker. Just change the tire, a simple five minute job using your tire tools. Also, consider a floor pump to quickly inflate your tires and save your CO² cartridges for the trail.

You might change your mind about a slick once you hear the noise and feel the vibration in your wrists and "sensitive" parts from your aggressive knobbies.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 03:18 PM
  #133  
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I have a nice floor pump, it is listed in the links where I posted my first pics.
I asked about pumps when I was there, and he showed me one that you do not need to modify when switching Presta and Schrader valves.
http://centercycle.com/itemdetails.cfm?libid=50500

Mine is camo



Bob, I have never dealt with a Presta valve until last Friday evening when I pumped up the tires to 60 PSI.
Max on the tires I am running is 65.
They had them around 40 PSI I think, to low for street.
That is another thing, since I air down the FJ when off road, I guess you air down these tires too to a certain PSI.

Anyways, the pump is very cool.
Just push it on and pull back the locking lever, and pump away.
Some guy in a review here said it does not work on Presta without holding it, not true as seen by my review of the pump today.
My review is dated today, the 4th.
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/...75_136crx.aspx

I am digging that site for reviews and the forums they have there.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #134  
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Oh, forgot about your pump. Nice one, should last a lifetime with only occassional washer replacements, like every 10 years.

Yeah, I've read MTBer's run low pressures, sometimes under 30 psi. Quite a change from the 110 psi on my road bike.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 10:28 AM
  #135  
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I have the C02, but I am looking at small pumps for the hydration pack too.
Found one online by Lezyne called the Alloy Drive MD for mountain bikes.
The cool thing is it comes with a hose, so you do not end up breaking a Presta valved jerking around the pump.
My local shop does not have it nor can they get it, so I will order it online.
http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-LZALDRM.html

Saw the carbon fiber one in the new Mountain Bike Action magazine, it lists for $80.
http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-LZCDPM.html

Found a cool review of my bike, but it is the '08 model, but they are pretty much the same.
I am glad I went for the Pro model, as it came with the better components than the lesser priced Rockhoppers.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/catego...-disc-08-29417

Speaking of Rockhoppers, I was at the shop today at the start of my lunch break and I saw a cool green 29er Rockhopper Comp.
Different shop, my shop does not have the model online.
http://www.thebicycleescape.com/mountainbicycles.html

My local shop has it for around $700, cheaper than the shop above.
Way less than what I paid for mine, but again mine was the top of the line Rockhopper.



Getting very excited since I am on vacation all next week, this is going to be fun riding on trails again.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #136  
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Mine:



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...59H0Y818QKZ3Q2


Great price on the 29er. I think Gary Fisher has something going with their G2 29er fork.

http://fisherbikes.com/bike/series/twoniner-hardtails
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 02:46 PM
  #137  
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Nice pump Bob.

Great 29er video too.
I will more than likely pick up a 29er next year.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 02:56 PM
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Fishers stuff is good, except that if you break the fork or for some reason want a replacement, the G2 fork has a proprietary trail and offset. So you cant get one unless you are at a trek dealer. And you cant upgrade to a better lighter fork unless its one that Fisher uses already.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 03:12 PM
  #139  
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^^Oh, that isn't good.

Does Specialized have proprietary 29er forks too?
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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Nope. But they do on their high end s-works 26 inch bikes. And as for the Fisher, you can technically swap out the G2 fork with a non G2 fork, but the bike won't ride as the GF engineers intended it to, thats all.
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