Those are nice looking.
I use to use those alloy extensions I put on my old bike, but they also would swing back into the top of the frame and nick it.

These look way better than that old technology I had back then.

Now I have to research more the GA1s or the GE1s.

 

Another subject, back to mountain bike shoes and SPD pedals.
Bob , not sure of the trails you were on, but I noticed where I first entered Skookum Flats trail I rode part way on my camping trip that I can lock into my pedals with ease.

But further into the trail you get roots, rocks, hills, ect where you have to be more aware of what is under you, and often you have to go much slower than bombing through.

There are a few places with roots that going over can make the bike want to slide out from underneath of you, and if you remain locked in you have a good chance of falling over without the ability of putting a foot out fast enough to help stop your fall.

I rode quite a bit of it with the pedals flipped over normal unlocked style and had much more control.
I have also noticed a lot of the pro riders who bomb down the ski resort trails top to bottom are not wearing SPD shoes at all, they seem to like these shoes made by FiveTen.
http://www.fiveten.com/
Not sure of the model they use, but some have very sticky soles that cling to whatever pedals they are running.

Did you noticed you had to unlock the shoes and ride normal in a lot of places?

 

After the first day's test and tune ride I ditched your model of pedal and went back to an old set of double-sided SPD pedals. I've spent so many years road riding that it's habit to pull on the upward pedal rotation and my foot kept slipping off the platform when climbing. I backed off the retention setting to minimum for easier exit. I'd rather leave the bike behind if I crash!

I'm installing new pedals this afternoon recommended by flash. They're a new Eggbeater model Candy X with a larger platform. Still a clipped in design, but I've never tried them before so hope they release as quickly as the Shimano I'm used to.

http://www.crankbrothers.com/candy_x.php

Fortunately I haven't had do an emergency bail out. The three times I fell was due to inadequate preflight and not checking cleat tightness on my old MTB shoes. One had loosened so no matter which way I twisted it stayed locked in.

Which brings up another tweak. If you decide to clip in, bring an allen wrench along and try different cleat positions (best to adjust on your indoor trainer). A little mm here and there makes quite a difference in efficiency and comfort.

Anyway, I'm comfortable with clipped in for now but am still on the fence and might revert to your pedals (that are outstanding) if the Candy X's don't work out.

 

What he said, Corey. You can adjust the tension so it's light enough that you can clip out easily. Once you get the hang of clipping in and out it becomes second nature. Once you get used to them you'll be able to put a foot down as quickly as with a plain pedal. Between that and toe clips (having ridden both) I prefer the spd pedals way over the toe clips. Remember trying to take off on a rooty section with the toe clips upside down until you could get going and flip 'em around? Getting hung up on things? Ugh. One of my mtn bikes has platforms, yech. Guess I'm not a good enough rider, I really miss having my feet stuck to the bike on the rare occasions I use that bike. I don't have sticky shoes, though. That could make a difference. How long do they stay sticky in dust and dirt, though???

Those Candies are really popular around here. Eggbeaters don't have enough surface area and a lot of people were getting hot spots, the Candies fix that. I haven't tried them either, just plain old Shimano pedals for me. Mine are at least 10 years old and have seen some heavy use but are still going so it's nothing new until they finally blow up.

Just some observations. I'm not up on the happening stuff, just use whatever I have and that's that and have been doing so for the past 18 years, so keep in mind when you're reading my drivel.
Heck, a pair of Yeti grips and I'm a happy girl.

 

Thanks for the info Bob and Hab.
I will have to look and see how to adjust my SPD pedals as right now it does take some force to click out them sideways, more force than I like.

Going for a ride tomorrow on a 14 miles trail here called the Interurban that goes from South of my town of Auburn clear into Seattle.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jputnam/2901734165/
http://www.poplarware.com/biketrails...nterurban2-wa/

It is just five to ten minutes from my place.
In fact it goes to my work too, but I am not that in shape to ride the 14 miles to work, plus it would take to long
I also would not feel comfortable riding it at 3 am or earlier to get to work by 4 am.
It parallels the freeway I drive into work on.
It is flat the whole way though, and also paved.
I use to ride it long ago when my sons were young.

 

Yeti lcokon grips are awesome!! But the ergons beat them for comfort, I gotta say.

Please, please, please dont wing tightening on anything on a carbon bar. Use a torque wrench. You dont have to buy one, just go to your bike shop and ask em to tighten the grip to the torque spec. Shouldnt cost you anything, and saves you from any freak accidents. Like you said, carbon is really strong in the direction that it was designed to be strong in, but it doesnt bend or deform like metal, it fractures instead. So if you overtighten the grip even a little too much, and a stress fracture occurs inside the bar that you cnnot see...you get the picture...

 

Yeow, more than a thousand words. Off to Harbor Freight tomorrow, I need one anyway.

Hab is right, it doesn't have to be the latest and greatest to please and perform. Some old tech is still highly regarded and sought after. I posted earlier that I sold my 26 year old touring bike in two hours for well more than I paid. They just don't make production bikes like them any longer with touches like investment cast crowns and silver brazing. It performed admirably for it's purpose and I've no doubt it'll last the new buyer another 26 years, a young purist who'd been looking for my exact bike for over two years. His MTB? One of the original Stumpjumper steelies (fork, whitewalls and all) hardtails he found in Santa Cruz and likes it more than the new stuff. Smart kid.

 

Now on the torque wrench issue, I thought the bar end grips used an allan wrench to tighten them.
How do you utilize a torque wrench in this case?

Both of my torque wrenches I have now are huge, they are for checking the lugs on the rig, so it might be a good idea for me to pick up something small for the bike too.

 

I had the same thought last night, where to get allen wrenches with ¼" couplings on the other end?

 

Corey, my LBS was big on a special grease called Judy Butter for the forks. I guess it smooths up action while protecting seals. It's made by RockShox but can be used on any fork. I got mine online for less than half the cost locally. I went with the big tub for extra savings. Should be a lifetime supply:

http://store.icyclesusa.com/shared/S...t=products.asp

 

Thanks Bob, I am such a newb at this bike tech stuff.
Do you disassemble the forks to apply?
If so, shes going to the shop.
I simply do not have the room to tear into things at my tiny apartment.
Or is this something you apply to the outer tubes.

One day when I move I will have a shop, but for now I am limited as to what I can do.

 

Nope, just apply it to the shiny part with the fork fully extended then pump the hars to coat them and wipe off excess. No tools needed, they said to apply before every ride. Then after every ride wipe the brake rotors with alcohol to help break-in.

I cleaned the chain last night using my old Finish Line chain scrubber and their citrus cleaner. It took a couple washings and rinsing with water to get a nice finish. Then I soaked the chain with my fav lube ProLink and now it shifts smoother than ever.

Heading out now to ride part of the 40 mile loop from Blue Lake Park, up Powell Butte and back mostly on dirt.

http://www.40mileloop.org/maps/40MileLoop_map.pdf

 

Ahhh, I see.
I think I will see if the LBS has any, or I will order some.
Sounds easy enough to apply.

Have not taken the factory grease off my chain yet, still looks clean, even after being off road with it.

But will do so before to long with that setup I bought.

Have not wiped down my rotors, no alcohol here, will have to get some.
You just using a shop rag to do so?

Have fun on the ride.
I am going out soon too, and might hit it again tomorrow.
Low 70s today, good riding weather.
I like having that hydration pack on my back too, easier than doing the water bottle thing.

 

This is a pretty pricey model made by syntace. It's a 1/4" drive wrench, that you can put a 3/8" bit holder adapter on to hold allen key bits.



Alternatively you can get something like a Ritchey torque key which is only a 4mm bit, and only clicks at 5Nm (which works for most stuff, like handlebars, stems etc) and its cheap (about 20 bucks)

 

Judy Butter is nice stuff, but make sure you really clean the stanchions real good before applying it. Dirty grease is worse than no grease. As for your rotors, dont bother with alcohol, use some brake/carb/tb cleaner. Cheap and works better.

 

Thanks Flash for the tip on the torque stuff.
I might see if the LBS has that small $20 tool.

I just got off the phone with them, and they said they use this Finish Line Stanchion Fluoro Oil (Stanchion Lube) instead of the Judy Butter.
The shop mechanic seems to like it better, and it has an applicator brush built into the bottle.
Not on my LBS's website, but they stock it.

Have you heard of this lube for doing the forks with?

 

hey do you have a myspace page with a red yota as a background? I happend across the profile and saw mountain bike pics. I thought to myself that i remember a guy on yotatech that had a thread about mountain bikes, and he has pics of yotas.
Now that i see that you live in auburn im pretty sure that it was you.

 

To tell you the truth, I dont regularly use anything on modern forks. The seals on them are so good that the good stuff stays in and the bad stuff stays out. In my opinion, all of these fork lubes were important back in the day, but todays equiptment rarely will need anything like it, if ever.

 

Corey, want a huge tub of Judy Butter? After today's ride I'm having second thoughts. I can't tell if motion is better, the air tweaks alone have most benefit. Plus the JB attracts dirt despite what the label says. Hmm, maybe I can sell or swap it to my guys who recommended it.

flash, I'm sold on the Candy X pedals. Easier in/out than my PD-M pedals, less sensitive to twist causing unexpected release, no tension adjustment to bother with, a little more float, the platform area is small but surprisingly effective at spreading the load, light and easily rebuildable they say, smooth feel, they match the black crankarms and no sole trimming of Shimano MTB shoes neede. Thanks for the tip.

I was about to pay $20 for new SPD cleats alone but got the Candy X's with cleats for $45 locally, such a deal.

 

flash, another gear question if you don't mind. Which MTB bars do you like for XC? I'm worried that Monkeylites might be something better suited to racers than recreational riders like me. Plus I'm not crazy about spending another $20 for a special tool when aluminum bars are prolly more forgiving about torque specs.