New Richmond 4.88 IFS gears + BJ Spacers and more.
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New Richmond 4.88 IFS gears + BJ Spacers and more.
Well I sold the TruTrac so I will list some other stuff I guess.
1) New unused set of Richmond 4.88's with the paper work (box died) 100$ SOLD
2) Set of used BJ spacers $65 you will need to buy new bolts as I cant find the ones I took off. SOLD
3) Set of upper and lower IFS control arms with Energy Poly bushings already installed (4-5 mos old) and cut for BJ spacers with all mounting hardware still attached $45
If any one would like any spindles or steering linkage just pay the ride as it will probable get scraped if no one wants it. Most of the front end parts are fairly new Toyota OE stuff according to the receipt the PO left in the glove box for $2100 (OUch!)
Buyer pays shipping unless you want to come pick it up.
1) New unused set of Richmond 4.88's with the paper work (box died) 100$ SOLD
2) Set of used BJ spacers $65 you will need to buy new bolts as I cant find the ones I took off. SOLD
3) Set of upper and lower IFS control arms with Energy Poly bushings already installed (4-5 mos old) and cut for BJ spacers with all mounting hardware still attached $45
If any one would like any spindles or steering linkage just pay the ride as it will probable get scraped if no one wants it. Most of the front end parts are fairly new Toyota OE stuff according to the receipt the PO left in the glove box for $2100 (OUch!)
Buyer pays shipping unless you want to come pick it up.
Last edited by Ganoid; 01-17-2007 at 05:43 AM.
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The spacers are the standard 1.5"
The gears are for the 7.5" IFS front diff.
I will go check shipping.
25# to your zip is cheapest via fedex ground @ $23
My Zip is 97303 if you want to do more checking.
The gears are for the 7.5" IFS front diff.
I will go check shipping.
25# to your zip is cheapest via fedex ground @ $23
My Zip is 97303 if you want to do more checking.
Last edited by Ganoid; 12-05-2006 at 11:59 AM.
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Its just a matter of who ever wants to pony up $65 and pay shipping or in dantheyotaman's case he could show up at my door and pick them up. My Zip is 97303 Salem,Or if some one wants to figure shipping its just 2 spacers so maybe 8# tops but I'm just guessing I can weight them tomorrow I guess.
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#17
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You gotta cut the inside of the upper control arm. google 4crawler (he posts on this board to)... not sure if thats where you got the BJ spacers to begin with Ganoid?
Thats where i got mine.
Need a grinder to do the upper arm clearing, takes awhile but once you get the metal out of the way they bolt in.
Word of caution, stock yota driveaxles will bind at full drop, atleast mine did with the 1.5" spacers. I had to fab some bumpstops to keep the arms from dropping to the point where the axles bind.
ive been reading here the stock T100 axles fit and are of a different CV joint that doesnt bind as easy. Research it i guess.
fabbing the bumpstops was a PITA tho
edit* ... i dropped the front axle like an inch to, not with 4crawlers drop but my own fab job with some spacers (spare bed mount weld on body lift spacers) :-p
The axles didnt bind as bad but still required new upper bumpstops.
Thats where i got mine.
Need a grinder to do the upper arm clearing, takes awhile but once you get the metal out of the way they bolt in.
Word of caution, stock yota driveaxles will bind at full drop, atleast mine did with the 1.5" spacers. I had to fab some bumpstops to keep the arms from dropping to the point where the axles bind.
ive been reading here the stock T100 axles fit and are of a different CV joint that doesnt bind as easy. Research it i guess.
fabbing the bumpstops was a PITA tho
edit* ... i dropped the front axle like an inch to, not with 4crawlers drop but my own fab job with some spacers (spare bed mount weld on body lift spacers) :-p
The axles didnt bind as bad but still required new upper bumpstops.
Last edited by drew303; 12-09-2006 at 01:50 PM.
#19
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You gotta cut the inside of the upper control arm. google 4crawler (he posts on this board to)... not sure if thats where you got the BJ spacers to begin with Ganoid?
Thats where i got mine.
Need a grinder to do the upper arm clearing, takes awhile but once you get the metal out of the way they bolt in.
Word of caution, stock yota driveaxles will bind at full drop, atleast mine did with the 1.5" spacers. I had to fab some bumpstops to keep the arms from dropping to the point where the axles bind.
ive been reading here the stock T100 axles fit and are of a different CV joint that doesnt bind as easy. Research it i guess.
fabbing the bumpstops was a PITA tho
edit* ... i dropped the front axle like an inch to, not with 4crawlers drop but my own fab job with some spacers (spare bed mount weld on body lift spacers) :-p
The axles didnt bind as bad but still required new upper bumpstops.
Thats where i got mine.
Need a grinder to do the upper arm clearing, takes awhile but once you get the metal out of the way they bolt in.
Word of caution, stock yota driveaxles will bind at full drop, atleast mine did with the 1.5" spacers. I had to fab some bumpstops to keep the arms from dropping to the point where the axles bind.
ive been reading here the stock T100 axles fit and are of a different CV joint that doesnt bind as easy. Research it i guess.
fabbing the bumpstops was a PITA tho
edit* ... i dropped the front axle like an inch to, not with 4crawlers drop but my own fab job with some spacers (spare bed mount weld on body lift spacers) :-p
The axles didnt bind as bad but still required new upper bumpstops.