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**CNlight HID Conversion Kits**

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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 12:48 PM
  #41  
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1. Bumpin' Yota (H4, True Bixenon, 6000k)
2. DirtyTaco (H4, True Bixenon, 5000k) -ToyotaNation
3. Dinkus (??, Moving Bixenon, 6000k) - ToyotaNation
4 Mikey55 (H4, True Bixenon, 6000k) - ToyotaNation
5. hiloracerboy84 (H4, Bixenon, 6000k)
6. hiloracerboy84 (9006, Single Beam, 6000k)
7. Jonathan (H4, True Bixenon, 6000k)
8. Woody69 (9004, Moving Bixenon, 6000k)
9. Woody69 (H1, Single beam, 6000k)
10.

I'll note your email address. If I were you, i'd edit that post because you might get spammed...

Last edited by CamNub; Oct 11, 2007 at 01:20 PM.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #42  
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Here's a question that has'nt been asked yet...
The HIDs are rated for 3000 hrs life... is that in a car [relatively low vibration] or our trucks [higher vibration]?.. in other words will the "rough road/trail" service that our trucks see adversely affect the bulb life like it does with the halogen/sealed beam lamps?
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 01:00 PM
  #43  
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Removed and thanks for the tip. Thanks for the order and you've convinced me to also take a set of H1's for the 99 Lexus Lx470. I'm assuming these are just low beam and not a dual low/hi.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 01:06 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by aviator
Here's a question that has'nt been asked yet...
The HIDs are rated for 3000 hrs life... is that in a car [relatively low vibration] or our trucks [higher vibration]?.. in other words will the "rough road/trail" service that our trucks see adversely affect the bulb life like it does with the halogen/sealed beam lamps?
Thanks for brining this to my attention. I never realized that bulb life differed between trucks and cars.

I will ask the manufacturer about this tonight.

Just curious, how much decrease in bulb life do you typically see w/ trucks?

Last edited by CamNub; Oct 11, 2007 at 01:10 PM.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #45  
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Here is the reply from the manufacturer:

"The higher vibrations does affect the life of the bulb. Both halogen and HID have filaments and so they are affected by the vibrations. However, compared neck to neck, the HID will still last much longer than the halogen for there to be any worry. "

I have a lowered car with a VERY stiff ride and I don't see any issues.

Last edited by CamNub; Oct 11, 2007 at 01:40 PM.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 01:31 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by woody69
Removed and thanks for the tip. Thanks for the order and you've convinced me to also take a set of H1's for the 99 Lexus Lx470. I'm assuming these are just low beam and not a dual low/hi.
Correct. The H1 bulb is only a low beam bulb. That means the LX470 must have a separate housing for the high beams.

Last edited by CamNub; Oct 11, 2007 at 01:40 PM.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 07:13 PM
  #47  
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I really hope you guys do some research before buying a hid kit, i didn't and regretted it
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 07:35 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by superjoe83
I really hope you guys do some research before buying a hid kit, i didn't and regretted it
What happened?
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 07:43 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by superjoe83
I really hope you guys do some research before buying a hid kit, i didn't and regretted it
yeah you can't make a post like that, and not back it up with some sort of reason why....let's hear it
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 08:15 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by CamNub
What happened?
Originally Posted by Jonathan
yeah you can't make a post like that, and not back it up with some sort of reason why....let's hear it
OK, short version is that there will be glare, i went with a slightly different route, i used casper shields which allow you to use a OEM D2S hid bulb in a h4 housing, it was single xenon, i will say that yes the beam was brighter but with DOT regulations that require the stock halogen headlamps to have a certain amount of light to be bled up wards to illuminate road signs, using HID in those housings will amplify the glare by about 3 times, whenever i pulled up behind someone they would always adjust or flip their review mirror, even though the main beam of the headlights were well below that level, i was flashed at least a few times a week, my headlights were properly aimed, if anything aimed down slightly, about a week later i bought projectors to do my retrofit.

CamNub, i hope i don't hurt your sales, i am not trying to, but i think people should do research before they buy something this expensive
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 09:03 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by superjoe83
OK, short version is that there will be glare, i went with a slightly different route, i used casper shields which allow you to use a OEM D2S hid bulb in a h4 housing, it was single xenon, i will say that yes the beam was brighter but with DOT regulations that require the stock halogen headlamps to have a certain amount of light to be bled up wards to illuminate road signs, using HID in those housings will amplify the glare by about 3 times, whenever i pulled up behind someone they would always adjust or flip their review mirror, even though the main beam of the headlights were well below that level, i was flashed at least a few times a week, my headlights were properly aimed, if anything aimed down slightly, about a week later i bought projectors to do my retrofit.

CamNub, i hope i don't hurt your sales, i am not trying to, but i think people should do research before they buy something this expensive
No problem man! This is definitely valuable information for everyone. Glare is always an issue with many of these HID kits. The CNLight has worked on and modified their kit many times for many year with many supporting patents to fix the glare issue.

From personal experience, I can say I've NEVER been flashed in my protege or volvo (about 1 year now). Keep in mind, I did adjust the aiming of my headlights. I've also have had many customers surprised at the low amount of glare. Here is a customer's miata kit I sold recently in a local forum: http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum...ad.php?t=57902

My username is Master.

Edit: The main issue for the trucks is going to be the up down glare rather than the side to side glare (on coming traffic). With the higher clearance, you're going to be shining right into other people's cabin. This isn't an issue only for HIDs but also for halogens.

And here's some headlight aiming instructions if anyone needs it.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/...6ta/051000.pdf

Last edited by CamNub; Oct 11, 2007 at 09:31 PM.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 09:52 PM
  #52  
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just aim them low enough and you wont ever have a problem. I passed 3 cops driving next to each other last night and they didnt do anything.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 10:08 PM
  #53  
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A problem with a lot of HIDs - someone will drive behind me and I absolutely have to flip my rear-view or I can't see. Or worse, I'm a traffic light and I can't look ahead without getting spots in my eyes.

Glad to hear that this kit reportedly doesn't glare like a whole lot of others do - I don't want to be an a-hole driver.
Old Oct 11, 2007 | 10:39 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by nick-m
A problem with a lot of HIDs - someone will drive behind me and I absolutely have to flip my rear-view or I can't see. Or worse, I'm a traffic light and I can't look ahead without getting spots in my eyes.

Glad to hear that this kit reportedly doesn't glare like a whole lot of others do - I don't want to be an a-hole driver.
Exactly, incorrectly aiming the headlights is a big issue too. Improperly aimed halogens can be just as bad and can also give headaches...

I'm not saying there is absolutely zero glare, because even halogens glare. It's just not as bad as most people claim. If you aim your headlights properly (I have mine aimed low and to the right), you can effectively eliminate/highly reduce a lot of the glare/problems for other drivers.

A lot of people aim their headlights correctly and then load up the rear and don't realize that this changes the aim.

I think the main thing is that individuals are aware of the issue and can take the steps to prevent it. The worst are the people whose lights are causing problems and they don't even know it.

Last edited by CamNub; Oct 11, 2007 at 11:29 PM.
Old Oct 12, 2007 | 06:00 AM
  #55  
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Thanks for the responce on the vibration question Cam...
and the headlight aiming link...
I used the Bosch H4 conversion kit which includes the lenses and two halogen H4 bulbs... The lenses feature a Euro spec light pattern which means that the light spread pattern is lower towards the left and front with a noticable "kick" up on the right side for sign illumination. Both lenses are the same and are not location specific, the kit costs about $90 at Canadian Tire [the kit does'nt seem to be a standard stock item anymore for those interested in getting it and probably must be special ordered] the only other conversion kit I've seen is by APC and features a "Clear" lens with the reflector doing the fancy lens work, I have no idea how effective these are...
FWIW I ran high power halogens in mine with no problems at all it is just a matter of aiming them properly...
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 06:06 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by CamNub
A lot of people aim their headlights correctly and then load up the rear and don't realize that this changes the aim.
Good point Cam when doing the aiming it would be best to load the vehicle to about the median load that you would normally carry. In other words if you carry a load of work tools and junk then have at least the tools aboard when you aim. If it usually just you and your coffee cup then put a load of groceries and maybe one kid/dog in the back and then aim, that should set things up so that you never have any issues at all with glare etc.
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Last edited by aviator; Oct 12, 2007 at 06:08 AM.
Old Oct 12, 2007 | 02:00 PM
  #57  
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we need 1 more!
Old Oct 12, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #58  
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I'm very interested but have some questions.

What are the advantages of this system over just some new bulbs?

Is there anything needed besides what is included for the install?

How difficult is the installation?

What do I need for a stock 95 4runner? I looked in the manual and I need a H4 Bulb what color would you reccomend for a basic setup so I have both highs and low beams?

Thanks for the info!!
Old Oct 12, 2007 | 04:52 PM
  #59  
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Cam could answer some of your questions better than I can but I'll give it a shot for you...
HIDs provide a "whiter, stronger" light than Halogen [which is quite yellow in comparison] the bulbs last much longer... this manufacturer claims 3000hrs or more per bulb which can be many times that of the halogen [life measured in 100s of hrs.] in our application the mfg. said the bulbs might not make it to 3000 hrs but would still exceed the life of halogens several times [this difference is due to the higher vibration in our trucks affecting the bulb filament, which also happens to the stock halogens]
The kit comes with everything you need except basic hand tools and a cold beer...
Cam rates the difficulty at about a two out of ten... the hardest thing I can see would be removing the airbox and battery to get to the bulbs, which is more PITA then anything else...

As for which ones to get most everybody is getting the true bi-xenons which feature two seperate bulbs for the high and low settings with no moving parts... colour wise it is a matter of preference most people are going for the 6000Ks, one person has opted for 5000K, my self I have'nt decided yet but I'm leaning toward the 6000Ks...

Hope this helped you, but remember I'm not the expert. CamNub is and you should probably wait to hear from him if you are not sure...
Prost Aviator

Last edited by aviator; Oct 12, 2007 at 04:53 PM.
Old Oct 12, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by aviator
Cam could answer some of your questions better than I can but I'll give it a shot for you...
HIDs provide a "whiter, stronger" light than Halogen [which is quite yellow in comparison] the bulbs last much longer... this manufacturer claims 3000hrs or more per bulb which can be many times that of the halogen [life measured in 100s of hrs.] in our application the mfg. said the bulbs might not make it to 3000 hrs but would still exceed the life of halogens several times [this difference is due to the higher vibration in our trucks affecting the bulb filament, which also happens to the stock halogens]
The kit comes with everything you need except basic hand tools and a cold beer...
Cam rates the difficulty at about a two out of ten... the hardest thing I can see would be removing the airbox and battery to get to the bulbs, which is more PITA then anything else...

As for which ones to get most everybody is getting the true bi-xenons which feature two seperate bulbs for the high and low settings with no moving parts... colour wise it is a matter of preference most people are going for the 6000Ks, one person has opted for 5000K, my self I have'nt decided yet but I'm leaning toward the 6000Ks...

Hope this helped you, but remember I'm not the expert. CamNub is and you should probably wait to hear from him if you are not sure...
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You pretty much covered it Aviator! The bulbs are rated at 3000hrs. Halogens are usually around the 500 hr mark.

As for difference between the halogens and HIDs is simply brightness. If I have a 3000k halogen and a 3000k HID bulb, you'll notice that the HID's are just way brighter. I have to look up the exact lumens, but imagine a BMW next to a car with some 55w blue halogens (that you get from checkers), THAT is the difference. In the first page, you can also see my high beam halogens vs my HID low beams. I think that is a very good way to put it in perspective.

Color temperature is totally up to you, given that it's available. Note that True Bixenon only comes in H4 and only in color temps 6000k and 8000k. If you wanted 5000k or 4300k, bixenon would be your best bet. PERSONALLY, I have 6000k on both cars. The color is white with a hint of blue. Perfect for functionality and appearance!

Thanks guys for helping me out with the questions! Let me know if I can help with anything!

Jimmy



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