Cure for Jasperitis--4.3 swap thread
04-14-2011, 11:11 AM
#21
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Haven't done a great job of taking pics but everythings in and it runs great. Unfortunately I'm having issues with clutch hydraulics at the moment, can't seem to get enough throw to get the clutch to disengage...
Few pics:
Few pics:
04-21-2011, 10:14 AM
#23
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Yep, honestly fits better than the 22re did as I think I've said before.
The harness was 100% complete from Jim's, just had to hook up grounds, constant/switched power and fuel pump. Came with a fuse block and fuel pump relay all wired up and everything was very clearly labeled, awesome deal for $250.
Jim's support is top notch too, truck is on the road now after the third slave cylinder finally worked and i've been having some lean condition/wot hesitation issues. Jim has helped troubleshoot even past the point when we figured out it was a fuel delivery issue (clogged fuel spider) and not something electronics related. Would definitely recommend them to anyone without hesitation!
Been great to finally drive the runner again, had this thing 15yrs now and this 3 month period is the 2nd longest it's been undriveable. Still pulls better than the 22re even with the fueling issues. Ordered a CSFI to MFI conversion fuel spider today (Delphi PN FJ10565, $170 on Amazon), figured even if that's not the problem it will need to replaced eventually given all of the issues people have with the CSFI setup. I'm pretty sure that's the issue though, been playing with my bluetooth obd2 adapter and Torque on my Android phone and at ~3/4 throttle the fuel trims go to like +30% and o2 voltage is in the <200mV range but fuel pressure stays rock solid (~52psi at idle, steady 62psi at WOT). Guess we'll see...
The harness was 100% complete from Jim's, just had to hook up grounds, constant/switched power and fuel pump. Came with a fuse block and fuel pump relay all wired up and everything was very clearly labeled, awesome deal for $250.
Jim's support is top notch too, truck is on the road now after the third slave cylinder finally worked and i've been having some lean condition/wot hesitation issues. Jim has helped troubleshoot even past the point when we figured out it was a fuel delivery issue (clogged fuel spider) and not something electronics related. Would definitely recommend them to anyone without hesitation!
Been great to finally drive the runner again, had this thing 15yrs now and this 3 month period is the 2nd longest it's been undriveable. Still pulls better than the 22re even with the fueling issues. Ordered a CSFI to MFI conversion fuel spider today (Delphi PN FJ10565, $170 on Amazon), figured even if that's not the problem it will need to replaced eventually given all of the issues people have with the CSFI setup. I'm pretty sure that's the issue though, been playing with my bluetooth obd2 adapter and Torque on my Android phone and at ~3/4 throttle the fuel trims go to like +30% and o2 voltage is in the <200mV range but fuel pressure stays rock solid (~52psi at idle, steady 62psi at WOT). Guess we'll see...
04-21-2011, 03:09 PM
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Wow! really sounds like the headache free way to go when it comes the wiring. Thanks for the info actually just sent them an email to get a quote on a harness. Guess this is an MPI motor? Sounds like you are on the right track with the fueling issue, hope its a fix.
08-17-2011, 06:12 AM
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http://www.jimsperformance.com/
I've been a little delinquent in updating this thread, swap has been running for about 5 months with no issues, been hauling my boat back and forth from the lake with ease a few times a month which made the swap worth it in and of itself! I have a 2" BL but I think it can be done without one, check 2door 4runners thread.
My 4.88 gear and 33" tire combo made it rev a little too high so I sold the 33s and picked up a set of H1 37s on the cheap, it's a heavy tire/wheel combo but the 4.3 chugs along fine even with a 2500lb boat/trailer behind it
Next step is a SAS so I can actually wheel it again, just trying to come up with the funds...
I've been a little delinquent in updating this thread, swap has been running for about 5 months with no issues, been hauling my boat back and forth from the lake with ease a few times a month which made the swap worth it in and of itself! I have a 2" BL but I think it can be done without one, check 2door 4runners thread.
My 4.88 gear and 33" tire combo made it rev a little too high so I sold the 33s and picked up a set of H1 37s on the cheap, it's a heavy tire/wheel combo but the 4.3 chugs along fine even with a 2500lb boat/trailer behind it
Next step is a SAS so I can actually wheel it again, just trying to come up with the funds...
Last edited by dok33; 08-17-2011 at 06:14 AM.
10-28-2011, 12:09 PM
#30
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Still runnin good, pulled my 19' ski boat all summer with no problems. May or may not get around to the SAS this winter depending on $$ and time...
10-28-2011, 12:53 PM
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Yeah it's always time or money! I'm planning on doing the 4.3 with the toyota 5 speed but thinking bout just running a carb. Any info or advice i can get i would appreciate! Thanks
11-30-2012, 07:28 AM
#33
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Back on this after about a year, blew up the trans in my Supra so it got most of my attention since last fall while I rebuilt and Marlin-ized it but I've started collecting SAS parts and hope to start in the spring.
Going the somewhat budget route buying used and beefing stuff up where I can, plan is:
-As little lift as possible w/RUF and chevy rears w/RuffStuff chevy spring kit
-TG hanger/shackle kit, shock hoops, knuckle service kit, spacers etc.
-Histeer, thought about doing a crossover setup to keep it low but didn't like any of the options
-Re-use my old rockstomper rear u-bolt flip kit up front
-Parts store monroe shocks (12 or 13" from 99-03 F250 rear, $20ea)
-IFS hubs with Long's conversion hub gears, TG dirty 30 birfs (mandatory w/37s and a 4.3 IMHO)
-4.88 elocker rear, v6 4.88 diff in front, maybe w/spartan locker if budget allows ($250 from rock auto) and ideally a twin stick so I can steer w/locker
-Square front driveshaft, long-slip rear with IFS front CV
All I can think of for now. Did some black friday shopping at lowrange-Dirty 30s, arp knuckle studs and brake lines, also picked up a Marlin Hi-steer setup off pirate cheap:
Just need to scour classifieds for everything else I need, I don't like paying full price for stuff
Going the somewhat budget route buying used and beefing stuff up where I can, plan is:
-As little lift as possible w/RUF and chevy rears w/RuffStuff chevy spring kit
-TG hanger/shackle kit, shock hoops, knuckle service kit, spacers etc.
-Histeer, thought about doing a crossover setup to keep it low but didn't like any of the options
-Re-use my old rockstomper rear u-bolt flip kit up front
-Parts store monroe shocks (12 or 13" from 99-03 F250 rear, $20ea)
-IFS hubs with Long's conversion hub gears, TG dirty 30 birfs (mandatory w/37s and a 4.3 IMHO)
-4.88 elocker rear, v6 4.88 diff in front, maybe w/spartan locker if budget allows ($250 from rock auto) and ideally a twin stick so I can steer w/locker
-Square front driveshaft, long-slip rear with IFS front CV
All I can think of for now. Did some black friday shopping at lowrange-Dirty 30s, arp knuckle studs and brake lines, also picked up a Marlin Hi-steer setup off pirate cheap:
Just need to scour classifieds for everything else I need, I don't like paying full price for stuff
06-02-2015, 11:24 AM
#38
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AA sells one but it's $$ so originally I used the stock Astro Van starter that came with my motor but had to hack up the nose cone to make it fit in the bellhousing. My modifications weakened it and it eventually snapped off so I bought this one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...67052/22740024
One thing to note is that it will not fit without ~1" of drivetrain lift, the body of the starter interferes with the frame with the engine at stock height
One thing to note is that it will not fit without ~1" of drivetrain lift, the body of the starter interferes with the frame with the engine at stock height
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