i have tried contacting the owner that did the swap. first he did not want to tell me anything (why i dont know) other then telling me be best to change injectors and timing. after a couple days texted him back and then he said all he did was removed the hose from the wastegate and turbo and plugged it and was getting 14-16 psi.
which i tried and could only get 11-11.5 tops going down hill with foot on the floor doing 75mph.
so i hooked it back up. i have been driving the truck back and forth to work everyday since buying it and first two tanks got 18mpg, 3rd tank 20 (running 55 -60), 4th tank still about 20.5. i did ask him about a tach and he said he never had one on it?? so not sure how he knew what rpms it was running. i plan to order one and install soon as i can just so i can see.
i have not changed the fuel filter i will do that this week and change the oil out in it also, and get the stuff to do a injector purge. and see if that helps.
if it would help me any i would still consider putting new gears in it?

 

Sorry to hear casebite Isn't helping you out much.If you're in question whether the gears will help you you could just put a set of smaller tires on it. To see how that gearing feels. It makes a big difference on my truck. That being said I have a heavier vehicle then you a 94 runner and I am able to run 80 down the freeway. Rarely getting out of 5th. w 33s and 4.56s. You might want to just start with all the simple stuff run your valves check your timing chain stretch. Possibly replace your nozzles with the ones that toasty josh showed us. getting your injectors and your pump balanced would help also.

 

ALDA delete more fuel.
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...mp-adjustments

 

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...highlight=alda

 

I removed the ALDA recently, and I have a lot more low end power. Also, these motors rev high; I mean max torque(highest efficency) is at 2400, they have a cruising sweet spot at 3000, and max hp @ 4200. (The IP cuts out ~ 5200 IIRC). Boost past ~12 psi will only raise EGT's (without more fuel), have a pyrometer installed if you want to tackle that. You can adjust the turbo from the rear with a screwdriver, but that may not be true on the Garrett turbo.

I highly recommend grabbing some Lubro-Moly diesel purge (at NAPA), and a couple feet of fuel line. The instructions are on the can, but basically you use it as fuel, with the lines routing into the can. You will likely see the crap flush out, make sure swap fuel filters after. A lot of folks do a couple of cans. I like to use a can as recommended and grab another to fill the fuel filter with when I install the new one, and toss the remainder in the tank. (Also, I have had the plastic barb on my prefilter crush and cause the filter to suck air. I haven't had any problems with the metal reinforced style.)

Setting your valves and IP timing are critical to power generation in these engines.
These guys focus on these motors a bit as well: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/

Also rebuilding the injectors with Monark nozzles made a huge difference in mine. Had mine rebuilt by member GREAZZER on the peach parts forums; impeccable work.

(I can't really chime in on the mileage, I only see 18mpg max at the moment!)

 

What did he charge you to do the injectors if you don't mind me asking.

 

Waltt - I don't remember, but it was ~2/3 of the price of the nozzles and pop tester at mercsource; I 'd like to say ~200-240. He has a very solid rep, and is known for a high attention to detail, each time I sent him a pm and he got right back to me; that really speaks volumes on the forums. (On mercsource the nozzles alone are ~$150!) We'll have to meet up so you can check 'em out, I also have a used set of injectors from pick n pull that you are welcome to send in so you don't have to rip yours out and then you have virtually no down time.

 

ok, i have tried the diesel purge with no difference, in performance.
also i found a place that has diesel tachs that can go around a alternater, but found where i can also unbolt my alternater and install a wire to the stator, and should be able to run a regular tach to it, would that work?? or would it be best to spend the 200 dollars for the tach i found.
plus i am trying to find some 31 inch tires to try on the truck before i buy any gears to see how it will do. did score on 3new 33inch buckshot tires and four new rims for free, so i at least will have a spare now.

 

I had the original merc tach for awhile (the parts were cheap enough at the yard), until I had two of the amps go on the fritz and expire. I just installed a Diesel Tiny Tach, and it works great so far! It uses a transducer and attaches to the injector line, so I think it senses the change in pressure with a piezo crystal or similar. The nice part is you don't need to calibrate it as one would an amp tach. (It also logs hours of run time and has some timers built in.) I got mine used for ~$35; it has a 6.0 mm transducer.

 

sounds like my clutch went out yesterday on way home, is it best to just stay stock or pay extra for the performance clutch? and will i need anything else? if i buy parts found a shop that will only charge me 300 to do the work.

 

That may be why he backed off the power.

Yes go for the performance clutch.

 

I have a nappa factory replacement clutch. It has never sliped in 2 years. A high performance clutch like a center force ingages very harshly. Consequently you have a higher chance of drive train failure, and Doesn't help drivability. I don't think your engine can out perform a stock clutch.

 

Marlin Crawler makes a couple nice middle of the road options; you can always upgrade to the turbo flywheel as well and gain more contact area (I have the turbo flywheel setup in my FJ80/OM617 and I take off just fine with a bit of weight).
(http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...rade-combo-kit)

That said, waltt has a point, and clutches are made to be consumed, just like brake pads. Better to have a clutch start to go than to break an axle... They are the fuse of your drivetrain.

These guys muse about turbo clutches being made of a different composite material, but who knows? Something about being in the boost when you shift... I cannot substantiate!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...clutch-218935/

 

Does anyone know where I can get a input and counter shaft for a g54 transmission, been looking all over and we are unable to locate one, so we can put trans back together
Thanks for any help

 

Sounds like a bunch of work for a g54; I think you could just swap in a w56 w/xfer as one unit. I'm not sure how long the g54 will tolerate the torque of the OM617; maybe someone else can chime in?

 

yea from what i been reading the w56 trans, is stronger, i might see if the transmission shop i have it at can find a w56 trans, or at least fix this one for now and then swap out in couple years if it makes it that long.

 

FWIW: If you have a PNP near you, you can get the setup for a good price. I got a setup of R150 tranny and transfer off of Craigslist for $300, but I had to wait for a bit; the R151f with the xfer was $800. Either should bolt right up. I think a tranny shop would want a lot of $$$...

 

Well got the truck back last week from transmission shop, they said it looked like a bearing went out that's what caused the shaft to brake a gear tooth.
I took the truck on the hwy today to run to deer lease, with new tach in it, with my foot on the floor it would run 73 mph at 2650 rpms, mph guage reading 60 gps would show 70, figures it up I was getting around 17.5 mpg. If I change gears to 4.56 or 4.88 would that help so I don't have to run with my foot on floor just to do 70 mph. Any time I hit a hill I would lose 5-10mph.
Also what is the best way to hook up ac to truck, use toyota compressor? Will i have to get a on617 pulley to put on toyota compressor. How will I need to mount it? I will have to get all new ac parts for under the hood.