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whoa, whoa, whoa... you need to be posting more information then that....like, what was the issue before it wouldn't start? and how did you fix it? maybe add a pic or two of the lump sitting in it's new home! you can't just get on this forum all willy-nilly and post something like that for a 1KD swap^^^
You're right, you're right...
there were 2 issues when trying to start it before:
1) fuel return wasn't connected
2) there's a fuse for the fuel pump that was blown (i believe has to do with the engine shutoff), so we weren't getting the required pressure on the common rail.
Here are some pics:
The powerplant in the engine bay... Sans the D4D cover... We still have alot of finishing to do such as relocating the battery and airbox.
The Engine at another angle.
The airbox from a 2004? V6 Tacoma will line right up.
Hey Yota-Tech-ers! I have a long update in which I will do my best to be as concise and detailed as possible...
The long (non) laboured road that led us here:
A rolled 2008 Hilux was bought and sold after I removed the 1KD engine and whatever peripherals I could salvage and would need. After selling the chassis I was $750 out of pocket, so a good deal there. The engine, however, has almost 300,000 KM on it as opposed to my original 1KZ-TE which had 180,000 KM, so we rebuilt the common rail before shoving it in. That engine certainly needed the rebuild, there was so much gunk in there and we are glad to have a fresh start with the new power plant.
And then we waited on the electrician. The most recommended electrician showed up once and gave some basic instruction and despite still agreeing to come and work on my rig, hasn't shown up since. This fellow is whom I shall blame for the overly long wait. No worries though right? I can find another electrician... Not so much... 2 other electricians agreed to meet me and look at the truck, they both had me waiting at the garage for 2 hours and just like the first, haven't shown up.
A friend to the rescue, sort of.
Another electrician I know who installs car alarms agreed to help the first electrician (since he still agrees to work on my truck), and this led to many many promises that progress is being made and little actual time being spent... 6 months later with nothing but promises and missed deadlines. The only milestone reached was that my common rail 1KD was started (by jumping the starter relay in the engine bay fusebox)... alas 8 weeks later no other progress...
Can I be very mad about this? No. The friend electrician helped as I had no other way forward, it was my gamble not putting it all on hold and finding an experienced pro for the job... I have learned my lesson now.
A pro with experience to the rescue.
My brother got wind of an electrician who was recommended by a friend. This guy showed up minutes after I called him, and started right away by undoing all the work that the previous electrician had done. When he explained his methodology it made perfect sense.
A 4wd is made up of multiple electrical systems:
Engine, Lights, Airbag, 4wd, ABS, etc...
With the previous electrician we removed and replaced the original engine AND dash loom; this meant removing the working wiring of 4 systems to make just one of the systems work (engine).
The pro mended all cut wires and reinstalled the original interior loom. Then he went to work pinning out specific wires for the original cluster, the new throttle pedal, immobiliser, etc to connect to the new ECU. in the engine bay he removed and pinned out all the wires except for the lights, ABS, 4wd, transfer box, etc, and is putting them together with the necessary new wires needed for the new sensors for the common rail engine.
It just makes so much more sense. Leave the majority of working wires and only pull out what you need for the new engine.
The pro has estimated 2-3 weeks of work and showed up religiously every morning to spend 2-4 hours on my vehicle. At this point, it feels like a miracle before my eyes!
As of today, he has been working on my vehicle for 13 days, and he is still optimistic that he will be finished plugging up everything this weekend... I will still take that with a grain of salt, as the vehicle will only then be started from the ignition; and the tidying up has to be done, dashboard put back in, etc...
Once that is over we have some little issues to sort in the engine bay, new snorkel to install, A/C to connect up with custom piping, etc... hopefully, we are running by Easter, but I'm realistically expecting to get it running and proper by April 26...
We will see....
Here are some updated photos
Before and after.. the mess that was the new dash loom, and the original back in place.
The wires being identified and separated from the new looms.
The 1KD and the 1KZ ECU's with wires pinned/identified.
Yesterday the electrician tried to start the truck from the ignition and he is now getting immobilizer errors from the odbII. I am brining the original grey key to the garage just in case that is the cause. My bet is a door switch or other required sensor isn't connected..... We have a contact at Toyota as well, so we'll hopefully get this sorted very soon.
The Electrician just updated me and the issue seems to be that the key switch isn't wired up. He says there's a switch to indicate that the key is in the ignition?. I figured it was something like that or the door courtesy switch (see diagram below)... He's assured me he's on top of it and will have it sorted.
I'm still impressed with his communication!
Last edited by likkleBIT; Apr 11, 2017 at 06:42 AM.
Reason: dislexia
Yep, Try to jump the Unlock Warning Switch, connector U1. I got the same error on the TechStream software.
the connector is located in the steering column, its a small white 2-pin connector, and simply indicates the key is in the ignition.
Got her started now!
And since we rebuilt the engine, there's a coolant leak. So now to clean up and complete all the wiring and little nick nacks. Let's see how long that takes.
And the latest hiccup is....
Engine shuts off by itself while idling at about the 5-minute mark. Clearly has to so with the immobiliser (useless any other ideas). The electrician is working with someone about this and expects some more information soon.
i need to grow a patience tree, cause mine is running out.
The last hiccup was a combination of 2 things.
1) The original key chip (with integrated remote) stopped working, and is throwing "B2796 - No Communication in Immobiliser System" - and that's only from one key! Luckily I received the grey valet key from the previous owner who by chance received it from who he bought the 2007 Hilux from. Seems I have a bad / corrupted transponder Key. Whats even more confusing is that this key worked when we first started the engine 2 months ago
2) Without the security indicator warning lamp connected, the immobiliser wont allow the vehicle to start.
It was finally sorted when I was able to spend time with the electrician and troubleshoot all of the scenarios. Thanks again RBX, that security light is absolutely necessary for diagnosis and operation! Even today I found that the bulb we have (#74) was very dim so I replaced it with an LED, and low and behold the transponder / security warning light will not stop blinking with that LED, and of course the engine will not start.
Anyhow the dash is in. I also tested that the throttle pedal had enough clearance. The techstream reports that with the foot down the accelerator pedal is 99.6% open.
Despite the electrician saying that he has jumpered the key unlock warning switch directly on the Immobiliser, we are still getting that error. I am going to have to look into this more closely myself.
To Do's still:
1) In the meantime I have a security warning light from an '08 Corolla... hopefully that will work and I find space for it.
2) Also the signal for coolant temp from the 1kd ECU is digital, and my gauge cluster is analogue, so this seems to be the only signal that we cant get from the engine. Does anyone know where I can tap directly into the analogue signal for water temp? Otherwise we are going to have to put in our own sensor and wire it direct to the cluster.
Are you using the 1kd cluster? You will most likely need to run that cluster to get the engine to run. That is the downfall of this swap. If you think you don't need the cluster you may be able to tap the sensor for signal before the ecu, however that may present a resistance issue and give in accurate readings, just guessing. The sensor is not digital just the signal the ecu sends to the cluster. There are 5 wires going to the clusterthat are for engine control which comes from the ecu of course. You could probe those wires but I'm guessing the micro controller in the 1kd cluster converts the ecu signal to move the cluster needle.
I am going to use the 1kd cluster in my truck, it will fit in the stock location with some creativity.
No I'm using my original cluster.
The tach is certainly OK, the speedo I'm not sure about but the electrician says it's hooked up. The water temp gauge is the issue, and i'm trying to find the correct sensor from the documentation. Worst case we add another sensor, but in my mind, it shouldn't come to that.
Well you could put another sensor in stud head or the heater hose for another coolant temp signal. Not ideal but I'm not sure what options you'd have.
I was under the impression that the gauge cluster from the 1kd is essential for operation because the immobilizer runs thru it.
You said the engine ran before without issue, did you have the cluster from the kid plugged in?
In my possession, the engine started a few times.... it's starting just as fine now with my original analog cluster.
The difference is we are using my original harness both in the engine bay and the cabin, and have added the needed wiring for the new ECU and Immobilizer from the 1kd. It is now starting and revving no problem... Should be able to get her moving around the garage yard this weekend.
Jan 26, 2017 | 05:46 AM
