Thanks RBX,

My son suggested I look into getting a lift kit ?? Would that increase the distance between the oil pan and the front diff ??

Clancy

 

A suspension lift, yes, but it needs to be a bracket lift to lower the front differential, it would be cheaper to hire or rent a welder to add motor mounts honestly.
It would be very helpful if you could load some pictures of what you are doing and the issues you are having.... What is your location, there are yotoatech members all over that aew willing to help.
Get the correct oil pan, sump, and windage tray under the engine and see where you are with that. As for the transmission mount, there is an adapter sold on ebay if I recall that allows about 4" of adjustment.

 

Thanks Rbx,
Location is southern oregon,
I'm on the hunt for the oil pan. Made contact with a fella in Greece and a fella in Australia.
We'll see if anything turns up there. I can get one on J-P carparts for just around 260.00.
If I can't find one I may see if one of our local fab shops can do some minor mods to the one I have,
The lift kit is 189.00 and includes diff lowering brackets. Seems like a good plan. I will hunt around on Ebay
for the Trans adapter. I'm open to any and all solutions. Perhaps a combo of them will get the job done.

Clancy

 

How's the swap progressing? Did you drop the diff, get a new pan, make new mounts or anything? I'd love to hear about it!
I seemed to have the same problem, but found if I raised the engine up about an inch, my pan clears nicely. This of course requires a body Lift, but, that's relatively easy (remove the 6bolts from the cab, and insert spacers)

 

Are you looking for a bell housing? I might have a spare. Oil pan off a NA market 2LT possibly too, would have to look. Is the engine a 2LT or 2LTII/2LTE?

 

Are you looking for a bell housing? I might have a spare. Oil pan off a NA market 2LT possibly too, would have to look. Is the engine a 2LT or 2LTII/2LTE?

 

 

Clancy hasn't been around for a while, but since the 2lt and 3l are nearly identical I might be able to help.
When I did mine, I pulled the tranny and put it all together on the ground, then put it all in at once.

 

 

Are you going to go with the stock mounting position for the battery, or put it where the air box normally goes? I swapped the air filter box and battery locations on my truck, and so far I love it. The battery is on the same side as the starter, and glow plugs. Both of us deleted our ECMs, that requires finding the wires that signal the ignition, and starter (I spliced in the main box under the hood, but if I did it again I'd go right from the ignition switch).

 

 

Electric, or engine power?
If your engine isn't developing power, I have 2 suggestions. First, make sure the pump is pressurized to ensure proper bleeding of all injector lines. A friend and I did this on my 3L and that fixed it. Second, the fuel screw on the back of the pump can be adjusted to achieve desired power outputs. Mine seems to work backwards: it's sluggish if screwed out.

 

Wait a second! I might have this all wrong 🤔. Are you talking about the lift pump in the tank? I Jerrry rigged mine by running a wire straight from the engine run fuse to the lift pump. To keep from blowing a line, I plumbed in a bypass before the injection pump (about 1/2 of the diameter of the main fuel lines to retain pressure).
Hope this helps!

 

 

Hmmm. Try running a new wire from any wire in the truck that gets power when the key is in the run position. I chose a wire in the fuse box because it was easy to find. Simply splice into it, and power the lift pump off of that. It's Jimmy-rigged I know, but it should do it if there's power there, and the pump runs when you put external power to it.