mtdave2

Typical reason for the swap. No power in this 3.slow auto trans, and a blown head gasket. The other reason for the 1uz is it is in the same family according to the Colorado DMV, so I should be able to pass emissions. So..what the hell right?

I thought since I benefit from the knowledge on this sight, I would try to add something useful to fellow wrenches out there. not to mention get some help with this project.

mtdave2

Pardon me if I state the obvious, I am putting out info for prosperity!

where to get the motor? You can buy used 1uzfe motors with tranys from junk yards, or a JDM place, but I decided that I would rather buy a whole car. This way I would know motor ran well, the trany shifted and I could scan for error codes. Not to mention there are all sorts of bits and pieces that having the whole car would help with, IE wiring, relays and the matching ECU!

The two cars you can choose from in the US is the LS400, and the SC400. The decision is where do you want the sump to set. LS400 has the front sump, and the SC400 has the rear sump. They will both work since you will be modifying the oil sump either way. I bought a 95 LS400, I felt the front sump was a better option and it had better seats!

Front sump on right, Rear sump on left. (took this photo from another swap page)

mtdave2

The problem is the drag link. It is just in the way. I decided to just take off the steering dampener (I will try to put it back on later) Here is a photo I found online that shows the problem well. Do not make your sump modification based on the line you seen drawn, it is not far enough back! I will post on the pan mod later. I just want people to see what the issue is.

mtdave2

My donor car. 1995 ls400 with about 167k. I drove the hell out of it for several weeks. No codes or issue. thing ran great, strong motor. and I will use all sorts of other parts out of the car in the RV. when im done I will sell parts, and scrap it.

mtdave2

Fist off, everyone needs to understand this point. this is an RV and I could not (or at least did not want to) put in a body lift. If you can put a lift in, do it it will save you all sorts of issues.

Lots of things to do to the motor before i could put it in. getting the motor as far back as possible is essential, the clearance for your radiator really depends on it.

one thing you can do is shorten the pulley for the water pump. I first changed the studs for bolts since i am not using the fan. Next i ground off the nub in the middle.

mtdave2

just an fyi

I will also like to point out, there are different versions of the 1uzfe motor. The year may make a difference if you are wanting parts. For me and my 95 ls400, the years that I can pick from is 95, 96 and 97. That is it. The first version was 89-94 so if your transmission goes out your chances of finding a cheap replacement is far better! The 95-97 motors do have more power and torque, 35hp and 60 ft pounds but harder and more expensive to find used parts. something to think about.

mtdave2

One piece of advice, you are going to be taking the engine in and out of the truck a bunch of times, I just cut the top part of a radiator support off, I will modify it so it can be bolted on. Really happy I did that, saved lots of time.

reallifedog

AWESOME. I look forward to watching this swap

mtdave2

Exhaust manifolds, what a pain in the butt they have been for me on this swap. I have read all sorts of things on which manifolds to use, they say the sc400s will work others say the ls400s will fit, I can tell you the SC400 manifolds will not fit in a 92 dolphin. Just not enough room, the passenger side can be modified to fit, but the drivers side fouls on all sorts of stuff, mainly the steering column. I then read the "log" style manifold of tundra's will work with no mods because they hug closely to the engine. So, I stopped at the local junk yard and found a set of manifolds off a tundra, 03 I think. One of the manifolds ending up being cracked, a common problem so look closely.

Or you can order a set of the after market manifolds off ebay, they work fine at least at this time of the swap. Though, here is the catch. They did not fit either! at least the end did not. I was forced to make a franken-manifold! I cut the ends off and fabbed a stick of pipe with the right bend, the o2 sensor bungs, and had to make my own EGR pipe. you may be able to salvage the stock EGR pipe, but I had bent it too many time trying to figure out what needed to be done that it made more since to just make one.

mtdave2

the issue with the EGR pipe is it stuck out too far, trying to get the motor as close as possible to the firewall, the pipe was hitting too soon. This is tucked in nicely. i am a bit concerned that the pipe may develop a crack, the original pipe has ridges in them that allow for movement. I spent a lot of time building the pipe as well as i could. It would be cool if they made a flexible pipe that would work, but I never found one that would work. some people use the flexible gas pipe from a gas water heater but I have doubts about that route, so here is hoping this works.

later I did find this FORD EGR Extension Tube that probably would have worked great with some mods. maybe next time or if this one cracks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331273616580?lpid=82

mtdave2

Because of the tight clearances with this big behind motor, I have been worried about heat. So I wrapped the manifolds, and fabbed up the heat shields. The original tundra heat shields stuck out too far on the end, so I cut big strips out and then welded them back together.

I also decided to put in a few heat shields in the engine bay as well. rubber parts on the steering shaft, and on the suspension, also the brake and fuel lines. Not the prettiest but I think I will feel better!

mtdave2

I mentioned the oil pan mod earlier. I did cut off about an inch, or inch and half too much. But the first one I did was not enough, then the mounts got moved a bit and well ˟˟˟˟ happens. Anyway this is what the pan looks like now. I am concerned about oil volume but I have a remote oil filter, using large lines and an oil cooler so I think I have made up most of the lost volume.

Doing this to the pan does require mods to the oil pick up tube. I had to shorten mine.

mtdave2

The other mod that I had to do because I was a dumass, was because I took so much off the pan, the dipstick would not work. I had to relocate it to the other side of the motor, just in front of the oil level sensor. Very happy with how it turned out.

donomite49

thats gonna be a cool motorhome

probably get better gas mileage too!

mtdave2

btw if you don't have this tool, go buy one, thank me later.

mtdave2

Engine mounts, I looked at all sorts of ways of doing the mounts. Decided to go with the round poly motor mounts. There are made for a Nissan 240sz “Circuit Sports Polyurethane Engine Motor Mount”. The bolt is 15mm, it really seems small but it is a class 12 bolt, so it should be ok. I did have to by a longer bolt, but still a class 12.

I like the design I have here, It really was useful when I was fitting the motor, I used flat ¼ metal shims to get the height exactly where I wanted it. Turned out great!

mtdave2

For the trany mount, I just used the original mount and modified it. Worked well, don’t have a photo of it in yet, should go take one. The bolt holes look crooked because they are! I have the motor moved over a tad to help the clearance issue on the steering gear.

mtdave2

The seats were almost a direct bolt in, the holes were ALLLLMost lined up. But I ended up drilling out holes and bolting them in place. The wiring is pretty straight forward, power and ground, and heater switch. The seats are awesome, adjustable in every way, even the head rest is automatic.

The console will fit though It will need some modifications. I am using the LS400 shiftier as well. Cool huh? only wish it was the gray color, still works though.

mtdave2

The harder step was building a face plate. This took tons of time and many redos but I was as smoking cigars and listing to music so it was a good time. I only wish I was better at paint and finish.

mtdave2

done.