Do you have a thread with picture of how you did all this? Its all sounding like spanish to me haha!

 

i havent created my 3.4 swap thread yet. i just finished it over the summer and with school and work ive been to lazzy to do it, hrm maybe to night ill create it....idk, its not that hard what r your questions?

 

You can just lock it with vacuum as well. I know guys that have had it done like this for years.

Everything you want to know about ADD here. Locking the ADD in the last paragraph.
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...tem-19259.html

 

Ok, I hooked up the Vacuum Line that I had unplugged and the 4x4 light still wont go away (and yes, it is in 4 wheel drive....the light isnt just on). Do you guys have any idea what this may be? I verified that the plug going from the front diff to the harness is plugged in. To be honest, I cant hear crap so im not sure if it is even trying to disengage. I reversed it for about 2 or so feet and drove it forward about the same distance......

The "Rear Anti-lock" light is on too...What does this mean?

I also cant get the LAST bolt off of my homemade crossover!! I think I will just let the exhaust shop deal with it.

Im going to look into the threads about vacuum locking it vs the sliding gear thing to see what I want to do. I tried to order the Hubs at work but for some reason the shopping cart on WABFAB's website wasn't working.

 

Dnstdad,

I read the article in that link you gave me and it says to test the VSV's resistance. Both VSV's are on par so Im assuming that means the Relay in the dash is good.

I checked all the vacuum lines for cracks and leaks and found none. Im almost thinking that the vacuum coming from that port in the back isnt enough or something. Or quite possible it has been pinned wrong or something. I sent cliff at toyonlyswaps an email to see what he thinks too.

 

Hello ,im new here and if anyone could give me advice would be great ! My trucks brake/charge lights just both came on and my truck idled very high @ 2000 rpm or so . i know that usually means your alternator is (out) so i took it to get tested and it was BAD - installed the new one and things worked great after , two weeks later both lights are back on and truck is high idling again . . . got the new alternator tested twice and its good - installed new RED TOP , battery terminals ,cleaned ground and checked all fuses and still the same issue .

maybe a short ?? bad connection ?? not to sure seeing as the truck was running great prior . . . only has 51,000 original miles (1984 EX CAB) 4wd . . . . .any help would be great ! thanks much

 

Hey man, Welcome to YOTATECH! I dont have an answer to your question but you may want to try starting a "NEW THREAD" In the elecrical section. This is the "3.4 Swap" thread and your question may not get answered here. Let me know if you need any help navigating to the electrical section!

 

I think your problem is more than likely in the wiring. The same circuit that illuminates the 4WD bulb in combometer also grounds the ADD control relay. Since you are saying that the truck is in 4WD but the light is not illuminating then when the transfer is shifted into 2WD the truck stays in 4WD, It sounds like the Relay isn't performing the VSS switchover.

It goes like this.

Going from 2WD to 4WD.

First you shift the transfer case to 4WD. This closes the circuit of the 4WD indicator switch.

This in turn then grounds both the ADD relay and the 4WD connection from the ECM. When the relay gets it's ground it then closes the circuit for the 4WD VSV by providing it it's 12v positive. At the same time the 2WD VSV's circuit is opened by taking away the 12v positive to it. The ADD relay is a SPDT Relay (single pole double throw). Which means that it is simply switching the 12v posive from one circuit to the other. So when one is energized the other is not.

Once this switching of VSV's occurs and if the proper vacuum routing is present, the sleeve in the differential will then engage and lock the front diff. This also will now close the ADD switch and complete the circuit that illuminates the combometer bulb.

Going from 4WD to 2WD.

You shift the transfer case to 2WD. This opens the 4WD indicator switch which in turn removes the ground from both the ECM and the ADD relay effectively switching back the VSV's which unlocks the front diff sleeve, which deactivates the ADD switch and opens the circuit to the 4WD bulb shutting it off.

If I had to take a shot at it from your symptoms description I would think that the ground coming from the 4WD detection switch isn't making it to the ADD relay allowing it to do its switch over. This also would make the bulb not illuminate since it is part of the same circuit.

But then again, I could be wrong.

 

Wooooooooo Hoooooooooo!!!!!!!!!

Themonch, you and dntsdad are always a great help and always on point! For once though, I am soooooo glad you are wrong hahaha. I was really hoping it wasnt something with the wiring! Come to find out, It was the linkage to the Transmission/Transfer case. Because of the body lift, the 4x4 shift linkage became too short to reach all the way to the H2 position. So, easy fix, I will either find something or fabricate something to extend the linkage.
Oh, and the bulb was illuminating. I think I may have typed that up wrong.

The "Rear anti lock" light is still on though.... That might actually be the wiring. Or it could have something to do with the ABS actuator being gone. If I remember right, there wasnt any electrical wires going to that thing...So I dont see why that would set the light off.... Come to think of it, Is there some kind of switch that I flipped that engages / disengages the rear anti lock? kinda like a traction controll switch? I think I saw a switch on the 4x4 shifter knob....I will have to test it tomorrow when I can start the "Fine Lady" without having all the neighbors cuss at me for waking them up.

 

That s OK, I love being wrong as long as it contributes to progress.

 

hey sry bout that ' as i said im new here , didnt realize i posted that in the wrong section haha , i will do so tho thanks ! Either way i like your build ! looks great ! My friends and i did a 3.4 swap in hawaii . . .turned out amazing w lotssss of power hope all goes well , aloha

 

EDIT: I poked around a bit and finally got it to throw a code "P0110" which just so happens to be the intake air temperature sensor, which just so happens to be in the MAF sensor, which just so happens to be $800.00 some odd dollars.................... I don't even know what to say to that haha. That's more than I paid for the motor! I'm going to look around to see if it may just be wired wrong, dirty, or actually broke. I don't see why it would be wired wrong. Cliff wouldnt have needed to touch those wires because I'm using the same ecu that came stock. Dirty....maybe, but the last time I pulled the plug off it looked pretty clean. Grrr.


Ok so, I thought today would be a good day to drive the 4runner to the exhaust shop........... I got on the road and when I got up to about 15mph it wouldn't go any faster! It bogs down everytime I try to accelerate!?!?! Do you guys have any idea why this may be happening? Does not having enough back pressure cause this? I don't have the crossover on either.

Oh and obviously I don't have the O2 sensors on but the check engine light isn't coming on. I would think that it would be coming on for that.

P.s.s I don't not have my ecu grounded, its just sitting on the floor board.

I've read a few threads and a lot of people say its the MAF....wouldn't it throw a code for that?

 

Check the actual wires going into the connector for the MAF. I have read more than one thread where the wires looked like they were going in but actually never made contact with the innerds of the connector causing havoc. Give a slight little tug on them and see if one pulls out.

Those wires are stright from MAF to ECM, so the conversion harness shouldn't have had anything to do with them like you said.

 

I'll check that ASAP! I checked the resistance on the actual sensor like the FSM said and my readings are within the require ohm specs. I wonder if not having the lower part of the air box on there has anything to do with this......

 

I went and bought some "MAF cleaner" made by CRC and she runs like a champ! Still idles a little high but Im still thinking its just an audio illusion from it having no exhaust. Which reminds me, its getting the exhaust put on as I speak.

How do you check the transmission fluid? I know the obvious of having to have it running and all that but does it need to be in neutral or anything? The FSM says it only take 4.5 quarts for a drain and refill but I put exactly that and its barley reading on the stick.

Aaaalllsssoooo, my oil pressure gauge is right on that first tic mark. Shouldnt it be higher? I'm using 10w40 and its about 40 or so degrees outside.

 

I went and bought an Oil pressure tester today from harbor freight.... Im planning on doing the test tomorrow. I have no Tic but my oil pressure gauge is reading pretty low:

L I I I H

Cold at Idle: The needle will be right past the 1st "I".
Warm at Idle: The needle will float around between the "L" and the first "I". When I say float i mean very slowly change readings back and forth. Not like dance around.
Warm at 30mph: The needle will rest right on the first "I"

 

Bumpity-bump!

I still havent found out why their is low oil pressure. I don't hear a loud tick like there is low oil pressure but my cheapy harbor freight oil pressure tester says it is extremely low (9-12psi in Neutral at 650 rpm's...It fluctuates...)

 

I was concerned about low oil pressure too when I first did my swap. I talked to a friend who owns an automotive repair shop and he looked it up to see what Toyota calls low - Toyota states that anything above 4 PSI is OK. Mine runs 40-80 depending on RPMS while driving, but at idle its only around 10 (I replaced the stock gauge with one that shows actual pressure). This concerned me originally but I have had no problems what so ever and my engine has 300,000 miles on it. It is driven nearly every day and does great.

 

Ride4Fun,

Thanks for the input man. I would have gotten back to you sooner but for some reason I never recieved an email notification.

Since my last post I looking into 5vzfe's and thier oil pressure readings, more specificly the T100 5vzfe's oil pressure. Come to find out, it is normal for the oil pressure guage to flatline at idle...dont ask me why, but apparently there are A LOT of people that have experience this. As I said before, although it is flat lined I dont hear any ticking or anything sounding like it doesnt have enough lubrication. It idles extremely smooth and is doing great so far. Right now I am in the process of putting new plugs, wires, and valve cover gaskets on her. I am not sure if the rear main seal is leaking or whether or not it was just the valvle covers....I shall replace and see.

I also ordered some Auto-rx to run through the motor. The valve covers had some pretty serious build up!.

Last but not least, I drove her to a lake about an hour away and the check engine light popped on....The code is P0420...which from what I gathered is the 02 sensor. No big deal. I will pull them out and check them some how. The weird part is that the check engine light didnt come back on until I had already shut the engine for an hour and restarted it to go back home.

Next, Aisin hubs, Timing belt (possible the water pump, maybe a new oil pump), sliders, and a new seal for the sun roof!

Love my yota!

 

I'm organizing a trail ride in Texas...It will be a long drive for a lot of you but hopefully some of you can make it.


Who: Anyone who wants to come! (Just send me your name and a contact number in a PM so I can get a roster and head count)

What: 2 Day Trail run and camp out. (Sat we ride, Sat night we camp, Sun we head home. We can also meet up Friday night and camp as well!)

When: 28th and 29th of May 2011

Where: Barnwell Mountain Recreation Center in Gilmer, TX. (Refer to the map on the web page for exact location and map quest info...web address is located at the bottom of this post)

Why: To have some fun!

Cost:
General Admission: $25.00 (Per Vehicle) $15.00 Primitive camping
(I'm not sure if you pay both but I will call and see I will also see if they can give us some kind of group / military discount)

Texas motorized trails coalition members: $12.50 (per vehicle) $7.50 Primitive camping
OOOOOORRRRR: You can pay $40.00 for a 1 year membership to the Texas Motorized Trails Coalition.

Barnwell Mountain Web Page: http://www.barnwellmountainra.com/


I figure May would be the best time because its far out enough for people to save money, take vacation, and what not. There are shower facilities and port-a-crappers at the park along with some other things (Check out the website for more details)

Oh, and this event will be for all ages and family friendly!!!!