Yota army guys 1990 4runner 3.4l swap
Jan 9, 2011 | 09:06 AM
#101
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From: San Antonio, TX
Its snowing / raining ice outside so I dont think I will be able to get any pictures in today but I will try to sneak some in when I can.
Yeah, if that first pict of yours is the ground then it is weird that it would be leading into the 3.0 fuse block. Most I have seen go to the inner fender for a secondary ground.
I have been looking at other peoples pictures and none of theirs looks like mine either...Im going to go through the FSM in a minute to see what it says.
You should have the following when done:
Positive:
From battery to starter large lug. (I've got this one plugged in)
From battery to alternator large lug. (I will have to check and make sure Ive got this one plugged in and running to the right place).
From battery to fuse block main feed.
(This one would have Y'ed off of the old positive cable)
(This is where Im confused, The cable that Y's Is solid black....One fat black wire and one skinny black wire. I will take more pics of this as soon as possible)
Negative: (ground)
From battery to engine block (Got this one plugged up)
(usually a bolt right above the oil pan level)
From engine block to firewall (Got this one plugged up too)
(usually right in the back of motor center)
If you are relocating the battery to the driver side of vehicle, it is much easier to just use the 3.4 battery/alternator harness. Then all you should have to do is extend the 3.0 fuse block feed around to the passenger side and all will be good.
I think im going to go with this idea. Im already using the 3.0 alternator harness though because the 3.4 alternator / fuse box harness was cut.
The larger the better on the gauge wire.
I have been looking at other peoples pictures and none of theirs looks like mine either...Im going to go through the FSM in a minute to see what it says.
You should have the following when done:
Positive:
From battery to starter large lug. (I've got this one plugged in)
From battery to alternator large lug. (I will have to check and make sure Ive got this one plugged in and running to the right place).
From battery to fuse block main feed.
(This one would have Y'ed off of the old positive cable)
(This is where Im confused, The cable that Y's Is solid black....One fat black wire and one skinny black wire. I will take more pics of this as soon as possible)
Negative: (ground)
From battery to engine block (Got this one plugged up)
(usually a bolt right above the oil pan level)
From engine block to firewall (Got this one plugged up too)
(usually right in the back of motor center)
If you are relocating the battery to the driver side of vehicle, it is much easier to just use the 3.4 battery/alternator harness. Then all you should have to do is extend the 3.0 fuse block feed around to the passenger side and all will be good.
I think im going to go with this idea. Im already using the 3.0 alternator harness though because the 3.4 alternator / fuse box harness was cut.
The larger the better on the gauge wire.
Jan 9, 2011 | 09:11 AM
#102
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From: San Antonio, TX
Its snowing in freakin texas so all progress has come to a hault. I will go through the FSM to see if it shows anything.
you didnt happen to have a dual post battery did you? two positive cables?
Not that I know of. I will take a picture of the battery and show you.
This was your truck from the start? Not something you bought as is.
I bought it running with the 3.0 if thats what your asking? I have done all the work except for the wiring harness myself (sent the harness to toyonlyswaps)
Also, can you take some wider shots of the battery wiring and post them up
I will get some pictures up to you as soon as the snow / ice storm stops. Im in Texas...I never thought I would have to wait for the snow to go away! Like an idiot I didnt take any pictures with the 3.0 still in it so I dont have anything to fall back on.
Not that I know of. I will take a picture of the battery and show you.
This was your truck from the start? Not something you bought as is.
I bought it running with the 3.0 if thats what your asking? I have done all the work except for the wiring harness myself (sent the harness to toyonlyswaps)
Also, can you take some wider shots of the battery wiring and post them up
I will get some pictures up to you as soon as the snow / ice storm stops. Im in Texas...I never thought I would have to wait for the snow to go away! Like an idiot I didnt take any pictures with the 3.0 still in it so I dont have anything to fall back on.
Jan 10, 2011 | 05:35 PM
#104
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From: San Antonio, TX
Here are the pics of that black wire and the fuse box. I looked briefly through the FSM but didnt find anything. Im going to look a bit deeper tonight. I will also pull the fuse box tomorrow when its above 20 degrees.
Jan 10, 2011 | 06:58 PM
#106
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From: Fresno, Ca.
I dont know but that looks to me like the lead that run down to the starter and the little lead going to feed the fuse panel. I would have to say that was your positive battery post.
Beautiful pictures. What camera/lens are you using?
Beautiful pictures. What camera/lens are you using?
Jan 17, 2011 | 05:39 PM
#107
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From: San Antonio, TX
Its AAAALLLLLIIIIIVVVVVEEEEEE!!!!
Started her up today! She fired right up! Im going to have to do something about the throttle cable mount or the throttle cable itself because the cable is too short and makes it Rev really high when mounted in the mount......
Other than that, as soon as I get done typing this Im going to solder the 10 ohm resistor and slap the Instrument cluster back in to make sure I am getting oil pressure.
I still need to put the crossover on but I might just let the exhaust shop do that.... I also need to bleed the brakes and Power Steering fluid AAAAAnd Fill up the transmission.
Dnstdad, The camera Is an Olympus EP-1 and the lense is a panasonic....Im not sure exactly which one but I will get back to you with the model number.
Even after taking the cable out of the mount it seems to idle a little high...Im not sure if its just because of the sound or what but I will get back to you guys once I have the tach in.
Other than that, as soon as I get done typing this Im going to solder the 10 ohm resistor and slap the Instrument cluster back in to make sure I am getting oil pressure.
I still need to put the crossover on but I might just let the exhaust shop do that.... I also need to bleed the brakes and Power Steering fluid AAAAAnd Fill up the transmission.
Dnstdad, The camera Is an Olympus EP-1 and the lense is a panasonic....Im not sure exactly which one but I will get back to you with the model number.
Even after taking the cable out of the mount it seems to idle a little high...Im not sure if its just because of the sound or what but I will get back to you guys once I have the tach in.
Jan 17, 2011 | 06:05 PM
#108
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From: NJ - 5 miles from NYC
Throttle Cable
I have read plenty of swap thread where people have retained the stock throttle cable, but mine looked like it would be doing the same thing yours is. I decided to swap in the 3.4 throttle cable from my T-100 donor which fit much better and bolted right up to the firewall. It was also in better condition than my original 3.0's as well.
And congrats!!!! Welcome to the club.
And congrats!!!! Welcome to the club.
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:30 PM
#109
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From: Fresno, Ca.
I have read plenty of swap thread where people have retained the stock throttle cable, but mine looked like it would be doing the same thing yours is. I decided to swap in the 3.4 throttle cable from my T-100 donor which fit much better and bolted right up to the firewall. It was also in better condition than my original 3.0's as well.
And congrats!!!! Welcome to the club.
And congrats!!!! Welcome to the club.
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:32 PM
#110
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From: San Antonio, TX
Yeah, I think im going to go and hit the junk yards tomorrow for a T100 Cable. I will prob run by he stealership to see what their price is as well. Im having a few other problems with her as well.......
Problem 1: She is stuck in 4x4.... Im thinking is has something to do with the VSV's not having any vaccuum. Which leads me to my next problem... (or do you guys think it could be something else? I checked the linkage on the Transfer case and all is good. It is in H2 but I dont hear the hubs trying to disengage or engage when I shift it back and forth).
Problem 2: Can I just plug the 4x4 VSV's into any vaccum line or is there a specific one?
Problem 3: What plugs into / where down this vaccum line go?
And, Where does this vaccum line go? its coming from the EVAP canister in the fender well... I Circled the 4x4 VSV's to make sure im talking about the right thing. I also circled that little filter looking think because I have no Idea what it is......
Problem 1: She is stuck in 4x4.... Im thinking is has something to do with the VSV's not having any vaccuum. Which leads me to my next problem... (or do you guys think it could be something else? I checked the linkage on the Transfer case and all is good. It is in H2 but I dont hear the hubs trying to disengage or engage when I shift it back and forth).
Problem 2: Can I just plug the 4x4 VSV's into any vaccum line or is there a specific one?
Problem 3: What plugs into / where down this vaccum line go?
And, Where does this vaccum line go? its coming from the EVAP canister in the fender well... I Circled the 4x4 VSV's to make sure im talking about the right thing. I also circled that little filter looking think because I have no Idea what it is......
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:52 PM
#111
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nice job on the swap, as far as the wire in the fuse box, you dont need it i had the same thing, its a fail safe for one of the fuses that the 3.o harness needed, in the 3.4 they ground it in a different way ( i ran in to the same problem). and for the T you have circled by your heater valve its the vacuum input for the 4x4 actuators for the front axle, and it connects to the VSVs in the second picture you have.
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:55 PM
#115
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From: Fresno, Ca.
Mine doesnt have that T. Just comes off that pipe and the to the fitting underneath. I cant remember if I removed something or thats how it was.
EDIT: OK I see now. I ditched my vacuum actuated ADD and went to manual hubs a long time ago. The VSV's and that canister in your passenger wheel well can all go when you do that.
EDIT: OK I see now. I ditched my vacuum actuated ADD and went to manual hubs a long time ago. The VSV's and that canister in your passenger wheel well can all go when you do that.
Last edited by dntsdad; Jan 17, 2011 at 09:57 PM.
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:56 PM
#116
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From: San Antonio, TX
nice job on the swap, as far as the wire in the fuse box, you dont need it i had the same thing, its a fail safe for one of the fuses that the 3.o harness needed, in the 3.4 they ground it in a different way ( i ran in to the same problem). and for the T you have circled by your heater valve its the vacuum input for the 4x4 actuators for the front axle, and it connects to the VSVs in the second picture you have.
You are totally awesome! Im going to go hook it up right now to see if that helps! Thanks for the compliments as well! I ran the wire anyways.......Doesnt hurt to have it I guess.
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:57 PM
#117
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From: San Antonio, TX
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:58 PM
#118
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if you do you need to by pass the actuator and preeminently keep the slide gear on. what i did was trashed the actuator all together welded the slide gear on and made a plate to bolt on in the place of the actuator ....simple and clean.
Jan 17, 2011 | 09:58 PM
#119
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From: San Antonio, TX
I will get a better picture for you too see if maybe you still have something disconnected. It may have just been a T100 thing or something.
Jan 17, 2011 | 10:00 PM
#120
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From: San Antonio, TX
Mine doesnt have that T. Just comes off that pipe and the to the fitting underneath. I cant remember if I removed something or thats how it was.
EDIT: OK I see now. I ditched my vacuum actuated ADD and went to manual hubs a long time ago. The VSV's and that canister in your passenger wheel well can all go when you do that.
EDIT: OK I see now. I ditched my vacuum actuated ADD and went to manual hubs a long time ago. The VSV's and that canister in your passenger wheel well can all go when you do that.
