ok guys im a new poster but ive been lurking around on here for years. well i have a 1991 ext cab truck 3.0 v6 5 speed. bought a crashed 1996 4 runner auto sr5 for doner. engine is in, air box and batt done exhaust almost done conversion harness done (i think). sooo i try to start it just to here it run to motivate me a bit. it turns over no spark no fuel pump. so i start checking. no power at ecu so i chase it back no power at efi fuse. turns out am2 fuseible link is burned open. as soon as i turn key on it pulls lots of amps and blows fuse link fast. i disconnect my harness and try still same. the thick white with red stripe wire that goes to fuse panel under drivers side from the am2 link appears to be the problem. so i pull all fuses and try still drawing mega amps. if i disconnect white red stripe wire from fuse panel no high current draw. seems it is the ignition switch and past is the problem. i drove my truck with bad headgasket in garage with no electrical problems now i have problem with stuff i didnt even mess with. my fuse panel is pulled down all atore apart but i cant trace it past this point. i also have tis subscription but cant figure it out. and im an indusrial electrician! any suggestions would b great right now. as i am about to get some gas and torch this thing!! thanks. i did try and search this problem but it seems no one else had this sort of problem.

 

I am no expert, but are your grounds put back in place? It sounds like your ignition is going to ground.
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yes i think all of my grounds are in place. and yes it seeems my ignition is going to ground. im slowly dissconnecting everything till i find whats causeing the draw. meanwhile all my swap wiring is dissconnected and still have same problem. am2 only feeds (2) 7.5 amp fuses (efi and ign) so i dont see why one of them arent blowing. i looked over the harness for damage. looks fine. also 4runner ran before i pulled 3.4 for my swap so i dont think any thing im useing was damaged from the accident.

 

Circuit Overloading

• The easiest way to blow a fusible link is to pass more current through it than it can handle. There are a couple of ways to do this, but the simplest is to ground the wire directly to your vehicle's chassis. Doing this will open the floodgates for electricity, and the fusible link will blow out like a drinking straw on the end of a fire hose. While you'd never -- presumably -- connect a positive battery or alternator wire directly to the chassis, the same thing will happen if a sharp metal corner or hot part of the engine cuts or burns the wire insulation away.
  
  

The Fusible link is blowing before your smaller fuses because the high amps coming in would toast your wires and probably fry your ecm.

 

i think i got it. apparently under the old 3.0 igniter and coil there is a little box bolted to fender with 2 wire going to it. "looks" like some sort of ground. well one of the wires broke off flush to the box with no possibility of reconnection. well i put a ring terminal on it and bolted it down with the other one. while looking through tis documents on power distribution i see am2 also goes to a noise filter. well i bolted am2 noise filter connection strait to ground!! so now i dont have high current draw but i have lots of stuff dissassembled now. that was the ONLY wire non swap that i touched, figures. ill post when i try it... hopefully it starts then.