My Downey 3.4 Headers came in today so I was planning out the rest of the exhaust. My plan is custom fab together the exhaust y pipe down below the bellhousing through the space between the bellhousing and the front axle. After that it attaches to the "stock" 3.0 exhaust that I already have on the truck right before the converter which is all mandrel bend stainless 2.5" with a high-flo cat and a Magnaflo muffler. I have attached a picture with the major components plotted out. Anyone see any holes in this plan? Especially the O2 sensor locations?

 

Just get it as close to the stock location as possible, in your case as close to the engine as you can but after the "Y".

 

Well I finally got around to performing a comp test on the donor and everything checks out great. Based on this and Toyota's reputation for building a motor that lasts, coupled with my personal experiences to such, I have decided to not rebuild the motor and only perform the timing/waterpump and a few other preventative measures before putting it in the recipient.

I was just on the TIS site gathering together the EWD's that I am going to need. I didn't realize that the site dosen't have the EWD's for my '88 4Runner (They only go back as far as 90) This is quite unfortunate, but not a dealbreaker. I have the FSM for the truck that has the schematic versions of the wiring, system by system, it just doesn't have the nice wiring loom and connector locations diagrams like the ones on the TIS site. I also prefer digital over the hardcopy. Oh well.

Weather permitting the donor will be coming out this weekend.

 

I have the 5VZ out and on a stand and I have been pullng it apart to do the PM on it, timing belt, etc. I attempted to get the crank bolt loose while the motor was still in the truck by putting it in 5th in 4wd and trying with a large leverage pipe, but the clutch would slip before the bolt would come loose. I decided to wait till it was out and I built the SST that a few guys built here to hold the harminic damper/pulley assembly.

My problem is that the damper actually ripped apart before the bolt let loose, so now center ring of the damper just spins and the SST wont hold it anymore. The whole thing is pretty rusted up and every bolt has been a PIA so far to remove, but this one is definetly on there good.

I have been turning it counter-clockwise to remove it since the FSM didn't mention anything about it being reverse thread or anything. Is this true?

Any ideas how to proceed from here? I was going to attempt to drill out a piece of 1" x 1/4" stock and bolt it to the rear of the crank with the flywheel bolts and let that get caught up in the engine stand stantions to lock things up to try and get this thing off. Any better ideas?

Also anyone have a 3.4 harmonic damper for sale? Mine is definetly toast.

 

Yep, lefty loosey. Good idea about using the rear of the crank now.

 

Just gave it another try with the rear of the crank being held by the flat stock, and I was able to lift the entire long block with the stand attached right off the ground with a breaker bar with a pipe attached. Luckily I had the hoist still on it with a little pressure to stabilize it.

I don't know where to go from here. My impact gun won't budge it and leverage just picks the whole thing up.

 

call up a buddy to hold that sucker still. it will work

 

Not sure if the crank bolt is the same on the 3.4, but on the 22R & 3.0 the flange on the bolt is said to be a spring. Folks have had success cutting off the flange to remove the bolt, as in the following thread.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...54/index3.html

 

the 3.0 compressor will fit on the 3.4, so you wouldn't have to open the system if you decided to go that way. the main problem there is the pulley, because the 3.4 uses the serpentine belts, not the v-style like the 3.0. that can be fixed by swapping the magnetic clutch and pulley from the 3.4's compressor on to the 3.0 compressor. that is what i did with my swap, which would have saved me the cost of evacuation and recharge if i hadn't broken one of the lines when i was ripping out the old battery tray. now i have an extra compressor if the 3.0's craps out.

i didn't have the sst for the crank either. while the engine was on the stand, i reinstalled the flywheel bolts, and slipped a huge combination wrench in between them and the stantions for the motor stand. that worked for removal and installation.

 

I had the same problem. I took my block to the local mechnic and they took their 3/4 inch impact that they use for log trucks to get it off. They were impressed by how tight it was. Something like 230 ft lbs?

No charge though.

 

Good point, it does have a huge flange on the bolt so it may very well the same type thing.

 

I used my 450lb-ft impact gun to get mine off... what a biotch... did you try heating it (slowly?) that usually loosens stuff up....

 

So I finally got that crank bolt off by ratche strapping the engine and stand to the back of my 4runner to keep it on the ground and twisting and it came right off.

I finally got my EWD from the toy dealership and although it doesn't seem to coincide plug and pin location, the same wire colors are are in the ewd that are in the plugs.

Newest problem: I am trying to finish up the preventative maintenace on the 5VZ so I can order up the last parts I need to get this thing going.

My problem is that I install the new belt with crank timing marks aligned at 0 degrees (straight up) and both cam gears at 0 degrees (straight up as well) then I install the belt with the three belt marks right on the cam gear marks and the crank mark and they all align. I release the hydraulic tensioner and everything is still good. The problem is that when I turn the motor over by hand a full rotation, the timing marks are now one tooth to the right (clockwise facing the motor) on both cam gears and the crank gear. If I turn it over a full rotation again, then they are off by two teeth. I have tried pulling and re-installing it 4 times and same results. Is this supposed to be happening? I am assuming that they should realign back up when the motor goes around a full cycle.

How could they be aligned when I start, then all go off by a tooth each rotation? Any help would be appreciated.

 

I believe that every 4 rotations puts the marks back. Just install it once right, with all the marks correct, and you should be fine.

 

Thanks, i figured as long as the gear and crank markings lined back up I would be fine.

 

I have my stock pulley if you need it. $20 + shipping?

 

Thanks, I alrady got one off of eBay for a bit more than $20 + shipping. Oh well that is the way it goes. Thanks anyway.

 

So I started the actual swap phase of the swap today. I am very happy with the progress so far, as I only slotted getting the motor stripped down today, but I was able to keep going and get the 3.0 out completely. Everything went pretty smoothly. I was able to assess what additional parts I need to order to get the 3.4 in and I plan on engine bay clean-up and final prep of 3.4 tomorrow. Waiting on a clutch from URD. Looks like I am going to need a new 3.0 radiator as the old one has some fin rot and I'm not going to go through all this trouble and have to fix something stupid like that down the road. I can't wait to clean up the BP-like oil spill that has been happening in my engine compartment for the last decade. Here are the standard "empty bay" and "old 3.0" shots.

 

I'm in the same spot as you right now (cleaning up engine bay) cant wait to get it running... bet that's how you feel....

 

I got back to the swap today and made some progress and had a few setbacks. I started to finalized the 3.4 setup and here is what I am going with.

I swapped the oil sender from 3VZ to 5VZ. (had to splice in the connector from 3VZ wiring harness)

I swapped the motor mounts from 3VZ to 5VZ. (The driver side bolt right on perfect, but the passenger only lines up with 3 of the 4 bolts. I figured this is good enough, since the 5VZ one only had 3 mounting points as well)

I used the 5VZ A/C compressor and mounting bracket and removed the top plate. This will mount right up to the 3VZ top plate perfectly. (they are basically the identical compressors except for electrical connector and front clutch pulley.)

I used my 160 amp lexus alternator that I had on the 3VZ. (This worked out great because I was afraid I would lost this in the swap.)

I am using the 5VZ power steering pump.

I am using the 5VZ battery harness with the alternator plug changed out for the one from the 3VZ since I am going with driver side battery location. (I still have to change the alt plug)

I also started on engine bay clean-up. Got out the degreaser and hose and made some proresss there, but still have to climb in there and get things a bit nicer yet.

My major setback right now is that the bolt hole on the block that the dynamic tensioner for the SC mounts to has the threads rusted out since it was a previously unused bolt hole. Tomorrow I hope to locate a helicoil in 10mm 1.25 that I can put in there and get past this.

Once this is resolved and the clutch shows up from URD I'll be ready to put the 3.4 in. Here is a "almost ready" engine stand shot. I have some hardware to swap over yet to stainless. (all the rusty bolts you see)