Attempting to get donor 5VZFE out of the T100 it is in and can't seem to seperate the engine and trans. It looks like it had to be apart before (prob for clutch) at some point in time because one of the top trans bolts was missing. I definetly got all the trans bolts, the starter off, etc. But can't seem to pop them apart. I tried jacking the motor up till the trans topped out in tunnel and putting jack under trans and letting pressure off of the crane in hopes of them cracking loose, but nothing.

Do I have to put the slave cylinder back on and press the clutch or something? I read it on another post, but I don't remember having done this in the past with 22RE/R150 setup that I did years ago?

Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

I would give the clutch slave a shot first. Ive pulled 50 plus 3.0s 22rs and 3.4s and only had that happen one time, ended up using a come-along to pull them apart. Not Ideal but did not have many options at the time. Good luck.

 

Undo the crossmember. JK
We pulled the T100 motor and trans together we had to beat and pry it apart.

 

Support tranny with some kind of jack. Ideal would be to using a transmission jack. Or rig your own tranny jack with a few 2x4's and figure a way to bolt it to the top hole of your jack so it doesn't fall off. Use some straps to secure the tranny to the transmission jack, or your rigged floor jack. Unbolt and remove the rear crossmember. The the bottom bolts that attach to the transmission it's self and the torque mount are a pain in the arse..

You can also use some ratcheting straps and string them from one side of the frame to the other. Why would you do this you ask. Well it acts like a catch or a net just in case the tranny were to fall. Now with transmission jack or modified floor jack attached to the tranny pull back on it and shake like hell. As soon as you see the tranny split, use some BF-screwdrivers or prybars....


Then your done, and grab a cold beer.

 

Oh and when you want to mate the trans with the engine again. You'll want to run down to your local hardware store or automotive store and pick up two long 12x1.25 Bolts. These bolts will need the heads cut off and slotted. You'll be using these as guide pins. I don't care what people say that what the dowel pins are for, but this method helps out a ton. The dowel pins are only good if you have everything matched up perfectly in the first place.... The cut and slotted bolts will help with alignment issue on getting things back together.

yawn.... 5:52am =)

 

Thanks for all the ideas guys.

I think I'll bite the bullet and pull the trans with the motor. The bolts that hold the trans mount to the crossmember are extremely rusted, and I can't get them out. I think I am going to have to cut it out.

dem0nk1d - thanks for the reminder with the guide studs. I read that a while back, and it can't hurt.

 

I'm also having a hell of a time getting the crank bolt loose. Thought I would do it while the motor is still in truck. Put truck in 4WD, put it in 5th gear, e-brake on. had a 1/2" breake rbar with a 5' pipe extension and all that happens is the clutch slips before the bolt comes loose. Also tried my 1/2" impact gun at 100 psi and nothing.

Guess I am going to have to make that crank holding tool that I have seen on here.

 

sounds like you need a better quality impact gun. trust me on this. cheap guns even put at 160psi will don't do 1/2 the job as a good quality impact gun set at 100psi. there should be no reason for you to remove the crankpull to remove the engine. just make sure you have that puppy bolts and locked down solid before you pull it with the trans. I'd lift it out from the engine mounts. Just wrap chains around them and some kind of heavy duty locks or huge grade 8 bolts.

 

It's not the best gun in the world, but it isn't harbor freight china or anything. It's a Craftsman brand, from about 15 years ago. Never had a problem with it getting the job done before, it just that this truck had a hard life on the farm apparently because EVERYTHING is rusted on it.

I'm taking the crank bolt off in prep of doing the timing belt/waterpump on it before it goes in my recipient. Figured it would be easier to break loose on the truck than on an engine stand.

 

What I did on my engine, was when it was on the engine stand, i took a peace of flat steel that was about 8 - 12 inches long and drilled two holes in it. I then bolted it into one of the fly wheel holes that connects to the crankshaft, and the other locked in place into one of the tranny bolt locations on the block. Basically freezing the engine up. 3ft breaker bar, and someone holding the engine... then bam came right off.

 

Finally got them to pop apart by hooking a ratchet strap to the clutch fork and ratcheting the clutch to disengage, which in turn pushed them apart enough to get a prybar in there and wiggle them the rest of the way. Still couldn't get the crank bolt out, but gonna leave that for another day. : )