Running Sluggish after engine swap: Connection right?
#42
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From: St.George, UT
I will try over there ... Thanks
Does anyone know off the top of there head what wires they have hookup to make it run?
I mean i only have about a handful.
EFI,COR,IGN,+B, all the guages, starter....
Is there a ground through the body harness from the computer that i missed?
Does anyone know off the top of there head what wires they have hookup to make it run?
I mean i only have about a handful.
EFI,COR,IGN,+B, all the guages, starter....
Is there a ground through the body harness from the computer that i missed?
#43
Just an idea, didnt really read your hole post and ive only run 22re's. But ive had sputtering/hesitant engines in other vehicles and all I did was pour a little injector cleaner in the gas, replace plugs and wires and problem solved. Sounds like you are suffering more from a wiring problem but its an idea?
#44
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From: St.George, UT
I have new plugs and wires, from Toyota. I also did run a can of sea foam, as well was lucus when i first got it running. Maybe i will double check my timing.... If it was off then that would definitely make sense.
#48
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From: St.George, UT
So they checked over everything and cannot find anything wrong mechanical. They did a compression check and in all the cylinders i am misfiring in they were low. So it has to be something with my wiring. I know this is asking a lot but can someone who has done there own wiring, list off the wires they have wired up. I can send someone some money if needed to take the time and do this for me, i am desperate. I just payed $100 bucks for them to find nothing. I have looked over diagrams day and night and can't seem to figure out what i missed.
#49
Wait wait wait. The cylinders that miss fire have low compression? Then they DID find something because all cylinders should be very close to each other. Get a leak down test done to find out where the compression is going.
#52
Here are the specs per the FSM:
Throttle open 100%.
Battery needs to be fully charged to get a minimum of 250rpms while cranking.
Engine should be warm.
174psi or higher
145psi minimum
Max difference between the cylinders should be 15psi
Throttle open 100%.
Battery needs to be fully charged to get a minimum of 250rpms while cranking.
Engine should be warm.
174psi or higher
145psi minimum
Max difference between the cylinders should be 15psi
#53
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From: St.George, UT
So i am not sure on this, but if i have low compression in the cylinders that means it is not wiring? right? electrical would not cause that? It means it is mechanical and something wrong with the motor. I bought the motor without hearing it run so it could have had problems, but i mean the motor has on 95000 is this common to have low compression?
#54
This does not sound like electrical to me. There is no way that the wiring can mechanically cause low compression unless you had an engine with an electrical cam phase actuator that went wrong (you dont).
First thing I would do is pull off the timing belt cover on the front of the engine and see if all the dots line up. If they dont, the belt has slipped. Replacing it and setting the timing may fix your issue. If the marks are all lined up then you have an internal problem with the engine. Leak down test would help determine where the problem is. My guess is you bought a blown engine.
Is the coolant or oil milky?
First thing I would do is pull off the timing belt cover on the front of the engine and see if all the dots line up. If they dont, the belt has slipped. Replacing it and setting the timing may fix your issue. If the marks are all lined up then you have an internal problem with the engine. Leak down test would help determine where the problem is. My guess is you bought a blown engine.
Is the coolant or oil milky?
Last edited by UKrunner; May 30, 2010 at 03:59 AM.
#55
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From: St.George, UT
Alright so i did my own compression test tonight and all the cylinders where pretty low, like 125 psi, and cylinder 2 was 90 psi, ouch.... So i put a shot of oil in the cylinder and the psi jumped up to 180 psi. I did that to cylinder 2 and 1 and they both jumped up to 180 psi.... So does that mean seals? and rings? or what?.... Oil looks fine..... coolant looks fine... Thanks everyone.
#56
Typically putting in oil and getting a higher reading = worn rings or broken piston lands due to detonation. Sorry but it looks like you will need to rebuild this engine.
If the low psi reading stayed the same, then the problem would have been valves or valve guides.
If the low psi reading stayed the same, then the problem would have been valves or valve guides.
#58
man that sucks. I ran into the same issue kinda. I got the motor for like 200 bucks, but was under the impression that one of the rods had spun a bearing. Okay fine, worse case scenario I get a new crank. Well I figured I would tear the thing apart and just check the cylinders, and possibly get them honed and re-ring it. Well #4 piston had a hole in it, and the cylinder had a nice gauge where the hole was. Was not very happy. Still after its all said and done I got a 4runner and basically a new engine now for around 2300 bucks.
#60
I was just thinking about you today. If you lift up your engine far enough to remove the oil pan and baffle, you should be able to see up underneath the pistons and into the bores. If there are marks and scratches a flash light will show them up. Will definately tell you if its rings or ring lands.
What are your plans currently? Are you going to take it out and rebuild it? Modify for more power and slap on a couple of turbos?
What are your plans currently? Are you going to take it out and rebuild it? Modify for more power and slap on a couple of turbos?



