3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

Running Sluggish after engine swap: Connection right?

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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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Running Sluggish after engine swap: Connection right?

So since the swap I have been driving my 4 runner around with the 3.4 and i have been having a little problem. From take off to about 3 grand it hesitates and chokes a bit, but after 3 grand it is fine. i can punch it and it goes very smooth and quick. Also sometimes when cruising in 2nd or 3rd at a constant speed it will start to hesitate a bit. It feels like i am running bad gas or something. The problem gets better as it warms up. I have a new fuel filter so i know that is not it. Any ideas?

Maybe a wire i have wired wrong? To whoever knows what i am talking about here but what did you guys do with the +B wire of the computer? It runs all over the place to sensors and stuff i connected it in the body harness but i dont know where the wire off the computer goes? On the diagram it shows a junction box and then going into the body harness.

Maybe it is not my wiring.

I am have check engine light flashing, but i do not have an OBD2 yet so can scan.

Any ideas?

THanks everybody
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 06:26 PM
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Also the idle will change and i can here a little sputtering when idling. Then it will go back up and sound good, then go back down and sound sputterish.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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The idle goes back and forth alot, every couple seconds, sometimes lasting longer than other times.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 06:13 AM
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I wired my B+ (W/L)wire to the EFI fuse in the under hood panel. The EFI relay is there also and I used that. If I remember correctly it was a white/red wire that was in the body harness in the kickpanel from my 92 that supplied 12V from the fuse and the relay and I connected that to the 3.4 W/L B+ terminal.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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Hey Dntsdad, So i want to make sure i have this straight.

The +B from the computer, you wired to the EFI fuse? OR Relay?

Then the W-R wire from the body harness, you just wired it to the 92 Body harness W-R wire.?

Let me know thanks.

I have the +B wire from the computer and the a W-R wire from the 91 and a W-R wire from the 3.4 body harness. I have both those wired together but no where for the +B wire off the computer. Thanks again
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 08:29 AM
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i had the +b wire from the engine harness, the dash harness, and the ecu. i spliced the the dash and engine leads together using solder and shrink tubing then connected those to the ecu +b terminal. no codes since i put in the o2 sensors 18k miles ago. check engine light comes on then turns off when i start it, just like it should. are you throwing codes?
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:12 AM
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ah ha, so all THREE get hooked together, thanks dntsdad and screamer i will do that when i get off work and repost the results. I had it like that once but i thought i was wrong. The idle would drop a ton. Maybe i need to reset the ECU after that. Thanks again
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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Okay so i wired in all three and it seems a ton better, makes sense since it was to the ECU. The surging of the idle has stopped. Thanks you guys
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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Okay new problem, ha

Well i finally wired in my OBD2 a coue days ago, had it scanned and i threw Misfire cylinder 6. So first thought was coil pack, so i switched coil packs around with the front one, Go get it scanned again Misfire 1 and 6. So then i switched them back to how they first were. Went and had it scanned one more time. Now i get random misfire, misfire in 1 5 and 6 cylinder.

The motor will have its moments, like today when i drove it home from work, it ran awesome no hesitation or bogging down. But then other times it runs not so great, hesitates, bogs down a bit. Most of the time it runs rough. Also the idle will change every so often , i will be stopped at a light and all of a sudden the idle will drop to 500 then back up then back down it does it about every minute randomly.

Does anyone have any idea? Maybe my IGN wire is not connected great?
Maybe i am missing a ground in my wiring that i didnt get?

I am stumped. If anyone has any hints or ideas please let me know.

Thanks
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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I would check grounds first.

I have a 2 ga. from the battery to the block, a 4ga fron the block to the frame, and a 4ga from the block to the body.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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I know this is probably not close, but what about the fuel. What did you guys have to do for the COR and fuel pump. All i did is mate the wires from both sides of the harness. Is this all i had to do? or do i have to run my own wires? to the COR or to the pump, to make it work properly? thanks, just a thought
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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Thanks for that idea Dntsdad i will check that out. thanks for always responding to my threads. I really appreciate it.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 06:17 AM
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I used the 3.4 COR, which is nothing more than a normal relay, instead of the 3.0 relay.

The 3.0 COR is above the passenger kickpanel in your Runner. The 3.4 COR is on the bottom of the fuse panel in the drivers kick panel of your donor.

I took the wire from the ECM for the COR to it(G-Y), power from the EFI feed (W-L EFi wires that you connected together earlier) on two terminals and the output (L-O) to the fuel pump wire.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 08:51 AM
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So let me get this straight, and please bare with me sorry for all the questions. So you took the G-Y wire coming directly off the actual COR relay as well as the EFI wire W-L(mine is W-R) and hooked those to the actual wire direct from the fuel pump? Or am i reading this wrong.

This is making me think that this is my problem. All i did was hook two wires together to get the fuel pump working, that were from body harness to body harness.

Thanks again Dntsdad you are honestly saving me through this swap.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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Here try this. Picture is worth 1000 words. Its oversized and yes, I meant it to be so he could see it better. This is for a 97 Runner. Cant remember what your donor is. Hopefully its the same.



Do you have the actual COR from your donor?

The only wire I hooked up in my existing wiring for the COR was the wire TO the fuel pump coming out of the relay. I cut it and spliced it to the L-O wire coming out of the 97 COR. If memory serves, the 92 wire is also L-O for the pump.

Last edited by dntsdad; Apr 25, 2010 at 06:12 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 10:44 AM
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Thanks for the picture and great detail. I have mine wired correctly i believe. The only difference i can see between the two are the 3.4 cor one of the leads goes straight to the ECM, and on the 3.0 cor the same lead goes to the Air Flow Meter, i have these two spliced together. Do you think this would cause a problem. The 3.0 cor looking for some signal from the Air Flow meter and not getting it?

Did anyone use the 3.0 cor?
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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The check engine light goes off for a day or two then comes back on if that matters? It will run so good sometimes then not so hot, it is so inconsistent and i am so confused ha. Help someone.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 06:12 PM
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I have no idea if that would be a problem honestly. I just liked the simplicity of the 3.4 circuit for the COR and used that.

Plently of guys have used the 3.0 COR. I believe Evoltra thread that is stickied dcouments his use of the 3.0 relay.

Saying all that, I dont think the thing would run without it being correct as the fuel pump is obviously not variable. Its on or off and it sounds like you have it on

Last edited by dntsdad; Apr 26, 2010 at 08:32 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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Ya I know what you are saying. It must work. Well back to square one. Ha thanks again for always doing what you can to help.
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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bumpity bump bump
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