theMonch

I have been digging through the regular stuff lately looking for a solution to my cooling shroud issue. I have been running without a shroud since I completed my swap because of winter, but now that it's warming up I know it will be a problem. I know that a lot have gone with the Taurus electric conversion, but I really wanted to keep things mechanical. I just trust it more and I feel it will be cleaner and easier to just find a shroud that works.

From what I understand the trucks and 4Runners from 1988 and up used two different fan/shroud setups. There is the earlier style (what I had) that used a fan with an outer ring molded into it, and the later version that used a convention bladed fan without the molded ring. I have read in a few places that the later fan without the ring with the shroud from the same vehicle (94-95 ish 4Runner, pickup) will bolt right in no problem, but I can't find visual confirmation of this anywhere. If you could post up what has worked for you so far, I would appreciate it.

Also if you guys running electrics, feel free to chime in with what you are running as well especially the relay/controller and sensor combination.

If you could post up the following:

Mine is:

1988 4runner (originally 3.0)

Radiator - stock replacement 88 4runner 3.0
Fan and Clutch - 1997 T100 from 3.4 donor
Shroud - no shroud yet, (stock 3.0 shroud wont work hits T100 3.4 fan)

jasond

Honestly, I finished my swap up in the winter also and did the same as you and ran the winter w/o a shroud. Then summer came around and I was to lazy to look for one so I watched the temp gauge and never had any issues. Here it is two years later and it still dosent have one - maybe someday but not right now.

Quick Draw

I personally had a hell of a time figuring out a solution for my fan. Due to the tight spaces in my engine compartment, a mechanical fan was completely out of the question. I bought a Taurus fan only to find that it was also completely out of the question. The only thing that I found to really fit was a little 12" fan that zip ties to the radiator. I didn't trust this because of the size. So I bought a bigger 16" fan made by Torqflo. This almost fit, but the fan motor wasn't clearing. So... I took the 12" fan motor, and put it in the 16" fan housing. That little fan motor spins the big fan very well so far, and always keeps my truck right at 190.




Not the fanciest or most "correct" solution. But it's working for me after about 1200 miles a few trail runs of really slow crawling for a few hours at a time:


I did have a thermo switch that I bought used with the 12" fan. But that broke after only a couple weeks. So I pulled it out, and it's currently wired to turn on with the ignition. I almost put another switch on...but I really don't see a reason. As for a switch inside to "turn off for water crossings"...no. I don't do that kind of stuff. The deepest water I have ever crossed just barely covered my axle, and I don't plan on do any deeper than that. I prefer not to hydrolock my new 3.4. If I really feel the need, I did wire in a disconnect in the engine bay.

Oh and I forgot to mention I'm using a stock 3.0L radiator.

cadman

1989 truck

radiator - stock replacement
fan - later year 4Runner/truck, no ring
clutch - '96 4Runner (donor vehicle)
shroud - original '89 truck, no modifications

Your crossmember has a big affect on how the fan fits in the shroud. My transmission is 1" higher than the original stock tranny at the crossmember and the fan is dead center in the shroud. The fan also the same distance from the radiator as on my wife's stock '91 4Runner.

dntsdad

1992 pickup excab
radiator - stock replacement
fan - stock 3.0 4Runner/truck, no ring
clutch - Stock 3.0
shroud - original '92 truck, no modifications

I havent had any cooling issues and mine through last summer fine. It get about 105 on a daily basis from June to Sept. I did NOT do a lot crawling however last summer but the few times I did, there were no issues. Granted it much cooler in the mountains here that in the valley I live in.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

92 3.0 fan with ring and factory shroud.

theMonch

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to track down a later 93-95 3.0 Fan/shroud/clutch assembly. From what I'm seeing here, it seems to work out.I think my problem is that I am using the 3.4 T-100 fan/clutch assembly and it is too large a diameter.

upsidedown

iTrader: (1)

my daly driver = no shroud my crawler= no shroud, I have been to the hammers in the summer, not one problem. no need for it.....

RobD

I'm running a Flex A Lite knock off with a Flex A Lite controller and no shroud. I have had zero issues in over 2 years. Three benefits that I've noticed are: no airplane noise when I fired the 4Runner up in the morning (mechanical fan), better power, and about 5% better fuel economy.

If I were to do it again, I'd probably opt for a better fan controller. If memory serves, there is one with an A/C trigger that powers up the fan when the A/C is on and allows a manual override to shut it off if you're doing a water crossing, for example.

theMonch

What are you using to monitor that? Mine will run 175ish all day long in the winter, but now that it is starting to hit the 50's 60's it is starting to get warmer in traffic. I got stuck in NYC last Friday for 45 minutes and it got as high as 215 from sitting in traffic. Which is just about on the edge of safe territory. This is from the OBDII data stream straight from the ECM which monitors the actual sensor.

The stock gauge has a "flat spot" in it that makes the gauge sit in the middle all the time until it hits 220-230 then it pops into overheat territory. This is well documented and is usually oblivios to the driver. The cooler the engine runs the better performance/fuel economy/longevity, etc.

You could be running right on the edge of overheating all the time unless you have some form of monitoring temp outside of the stock gauge.

upsidedown

iTrader: (1)

autometer

theMonch

I did some trial and error fitting yesterday and came up with the exact conclusion that I had originally. My problem is the 3.4 T-100 fan is too large a diameter. I did some part number digging and found that there were 3 different fan/shroud combinations used across the 88-95 3.0 life span. All of the combinations were used at some point in time on a particular model year, so I am deducing that any one of the three 3.0 fan numbers should work with any one of the three 3.0 shroud numbers. The main difference is the 88-93 appear to have used the rimmed fan vs. the 94 and 95 using an open blade design.

I ordered up a fan and shroud combination from a 95 4Runner thinking that if there were changes, that the later would be better.

I'll post up my results as soon as I get them installed in there next week some time.

theMonch

Finally got my shroud in today and put it all together. fits like a glove. my initial problems stemmed from the aftermarket radiator that i picked up was a universal manual and auto aftermarket piece. The outlets for the auto trans cooler interfered with my manual shroud I think. I massaged a few clearance cuts into the new one and it fit perfectly along with the new fan I picked up and the original 3.0 fan clutch. The new fan and shroud are both for 94 to 95 4runner. the fan is the no-ring type and together with the shroud are making a world of difference in cooling. oh and there shiny too!

Before the install I could let the truck idle for 15 mins right up to 215 standing still in the driveway on a 50 degree day. After the install today, I let it idle for an hour and it never went over 186. It is amazing what a difference a shroud makes.

Thanks again for all of the input. Next on the list is A/C recharge and wiring and Ill be 100% up and running.

hamish_18

nice congrats.. Mine gets to about 197 on a normal day. Weird the difference. I have the stock shroud mated with the Taurus fan.

theMonch

I have always had a little voice telling me maybe go electric fan since the beginning of my swap. I am so glad I never listened to it. It has been high 90's early 100's in NJ during the current heat wave this month and the mechanical fan solution I went with is working...famously.

I haven't been able to get it over 200 sitting in trafiic for two hours today with a heat index of 105. I know this is probably tidily bits for some of the southwestern crew, but for NJ it's HOTTTT. Toyota engineered it right from the beginning. Stick with what they had and you shouldn't have any problems. No relay problems..No thermo sensor problems...and with the S/C...no negligable power loss.

On another note' it could have something to do with the fact that I haven't had the softtop up since July 3rd..... 1st gen 4Runner FTW.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

What thermostat are you using? I am running a Trd 160* and I sit at 170 give or take 5* the Trd Sc install book calls for 170. But the 160 opens much sooner

theMonch

I am actually running with a 180. When I was doing the swap I couldnt get the 170 in time for my shedule, so I went with the lowest I could find locally. Not to mention that the TRD 170 was really expensive.

osucycler

1994 4Runner
Stock 3.0 replacement radiator from NAPA
fan and fan clutch from the 1994 3.0
original 1994 3.0 shroud
t stat is from the ORS kit not sure the opening temp

Here is an interesting thing mine will sit at idle absolutely still and not get above 188-195
As soon as I go down the road it will routinely go up to around 200-212 (as monitored by the Scanguage II). As soon as I slow down the temp goes down. It seems inverse as to what the temp should do. Faster speed more air cooler engine/radiator, not the case in my situation. I realize a much greater load is being put on the engine it just seems opposite of what the readings should be, it has never overheated. It has also been well above 100 degrees in Oklahoma for the last 3 weeks so this is with the A/C blasting.

theMonch

No that sounds about right. Once the motor comes off idle it generates considerably more heat. Even with the added airflow of the vehicle moving it still will run hotter. That is the theory behind the operation of the fan/shround/clutch combo. In theory it should pull enough air to simulate moving down the road. Shut off that a/c compressor and you will probably get back 10 degrees.

osucycler

That is what I noticed as I pulled into the neighborhood last night. Shut down the A/C and the temp almost immediately started to drop.

Just making sure.