Does anyone have experience with the ORS crossover? I have their crossover in my 89 4runner with no body lift and it collects right at the frame. It is almost hitting the drivers torsion bar and is over the edge of the frame 1/2".
Has anyone else using the crossover had this issue? Can I just run the engine to heat the crossover up and pull it closer to the transmission?

 

From the looks of it you're gonna need a more than a little bending to get that to clear. Have you contacted ORS? I suppose it's possible they have one turn out funky once in a while. If not I'm sure a local exhaust shop could cut and reposition it if you can't do it yourself.

 

Yes I have contacted them but I have not heard back yet. They usually take a few days to respond, but just thought others may have had this issue before and might be simple fix.

 

I'm just going to say there's no way running the engine is going to make the exhaust hot enough to "bend". Wait till you hear back from them before you take it to a 3rd party.

 

Is that the collector they're using? I though they'd use the stock collector to bolt directly onto the factory downpipe?

 

Got a hold of ORS on the phone today and it looks like that is normal for collector to sit over the frame. There is a weld on flange they provide and because I was trying to use 2 1/4" pipe I was hitting the frame as I needed to use a reducer right off the flange. ORS designed the crossover to be used with a 2.5 inch exhaust and if you use a bend right off the flange you will clear everything just barely.
He did give me the option of having him send me another weld on flange (free of charge) so I could cut the flange off and move it up so I could use a reducer to run 2.25 exhaust.

 

Ran into the same problem, thought it was supposed to be direct bolt into the 3.0 down pipe, but I was wrong. Here's what I did with a 3.0 aftermarket downpipe I got off ebay.

1. Mark what angle you want to cut at the collector end. Get your sawzall if you got one.

2. Mock up your pipe at the crossover and mark how much to grind off to get the pipe to fit where you want it.

3. After you grind the pipe at an angle, mock it up again to make sure it looks good enough to weld. Also, make sure the other end of the pipe is going where your cat is going to be, and not towards the driveshaft. Make 3 tick marks so when you take it back down, you know how you're going to tack weld it.

4. Tack it, mock it (like step 3), and weld it up if you're happy with it.

5. Most likely, like I did, you will have to modify the other end to face downward using the same steps.

Doesn't take long, if you have tools to do it. I thought, I was the only one because I bought aftermarket exhaust pipe, but I guess not.

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Borsa down pipe, to flowmaster exhaust, goin out a Walker muffler. All were direct fit for a 3.0 extended cab.
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EDIT: But I don't have torsion bars though, so yours is probably going to be way trickier than mine was...

 

Interesting. I sent my 3.4 cross over to Toyswapsonly.com and they cut and reweld mine and it came out great...I ordered Autozone outlet and had muffler shop did the rest.
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