I'm going to start the removal either today or tomorrow. I feel like crap today, its raining and about 40 deg in my garage. Ugh.
Can I do this without a tranny jack and do I need to raise the vehicle at all or will it drop right out from under at the stock ride height?

I drove it last night and its starting to make a whining noise. I'm going to replace the front oil pump which should take care of the bearings and seal. Should I replace the TC while I'm in there?

 

If you try dropping the tranny without it, your going to hate yourself while you do it. Without the tranny resting on anything, yes you can probably slide it out without raising the vehicle. I've removed trannys from cars and trucks before using only tiedowns, but I was also young and invincible then too. Do yourself a favor and get the jack. I've used mine for everything from dropping the front diff to installing my aftermarket front & rear bumpers and more. You only need to place a jack under the frame on the side the tranny will come out, and a few inches is usually all thats needed.

Unless they are physically damaged, torque converters rarely go bad, and they are not cheap unless you find a used one. I'd carefully check your ATF for any traces of metal. If you find any, your looking at a rebuild or rebuilt/used tranny. The tc will need to be flushed too.

 

Could you guys tell me what rpm's your turning at 60mph?
Thanks.

 

Oh hi there. You guys might have the chance to call me an idiot. I got the 4Runner into the garage today with all the lights setup and took a really good look underneath before tearing into the job.

So im following this reddish brown oil from rear diff, fuel tank, along the driveshaft, along the oil pan of the tranny to the bellhousing where its dripping slowly. It looks like tranny fluid - as in it looks like the stuff on the dipstick. Yet it still bothers me that the fluid level hasnt moved, or a small amount. So I look around under there, and serioulsy, from bellhousing out to the passenger side front wheel the thing is covered in fluid. I continue forward tracing the lines to the cooler in the radiator. All clean. Infact the oil stops at engine except for some on the front driveshaft. I follow it forward and see oil on the case, then follow that forward to the drain plg. There is no fluid/oil/wetness anywhere forawrd of that drain plug. So I am hoping against all hope that this fluid is front diff fluid and I just lost the entire capacity all over the underside of my 4Runner.

3 things.
How much fluid does it take?
How do I fill it?
What damage have I done driving it for 150 miles? Less than 1/10 mile with 4wd engaged.

Either that or its dripping out the bellhousing on the drive shaft and seeping forward along the diff to the drain plug.

 

With my ARB locker, the front diff holds a little over 1.5 quarts. I think its supposed to be about 1.7 quarts for a stock open diff. The ADD front diff holds about 2 quarts. You should have gear oil in the diff, not ATF.

The fill plug is the big bolt on the cover. The common leak points are the front cover, rear seal, drain plug, and where the gear shafts go into the differential case & differential tube.

 

Can you post some pics?

 

I'll post pics later - I'm unexpected daddy daycare today. I did loosen the drain plug last night until fluid came out.
Sigh. Diff fluid is clear. This is a tranny leak afterall.
Called about renting a tranny jack - $22 a day!! Or $73.45 for a week. Damn!

 

any updates? Was thinking about it this morning.

 

I'm in the process of taking the tranny out. Just have the transfer linkage, cooler lines and bellhousing bolts to pull and its out. Should be less than 2 hours all told including beer time.

 

Admit it Joey daddy daycare was way more fun than getting all greasy and dirty under the truck...
Happy Thanksgiving... btw we need updated pics mano...

 

Pics are in this thread, up a few posts. I've done nothing to the exterior, so thats just as rusty.
I've still got to clean and tidy up in the engine bay. I will post more good pics when it's cleaned up.

And yes daddy daycare was much better than being under the truck. I was really into doing the swap and enjoyed it for the most part. But after being able to drive her for a couple of weeks, I really had zero desire to get greasy again. I pushed myself into doing the job. Its freezing cold now and snowing. Exactly what I was trying to avoid.

You know its cold in your garage when only 1 fluorescent light works and that SOB is so dim its pointless.

I need a wood burner and some friends over to help me get this DONE!

 

Oh, and I might have convinced the wife to let my do a 5 speed swap. I can find a tranny with clutch components for $100.

What say ye?

 

I was talking about pics of your little bundle not the truck daddy lol...
Don't worry IK you're a little sleep depraved these days...

 

Wouldnt that mean a new ecm and harness as well? Unless you do not care about CEL codes? cant have any here or we fail smog

 

Nope. Resistor to simulate solenoid coils and short nuetral start switch to make the ecu think its always in park so you can start it. Wiring is a 10 minute job!

 

well hell then maybe I should keep my auto harness and ecm then. i have searched and read about guys doing that over at Marlin but no hard info on how to do it so i gave up and started looking for a manual setup.

you have the resistor values and everything? Will this cause CEL's? I cant have that

 

I found all the info on here a year or so ago. To find the resistor value needed is easy. Find a solenoid wire and use an ohm meter from it to ground. The value = the resistor you need. Use a 1W to make sure it can handle the current. I'm not sure if it causes a CEL. I cant see how it would if it thinks there are solenoids connected and it thinks its in park. You might need to connect a trans temp sensor also.

 

Checking my Scangauge II while driving in traffic, 2185 - 2200 rpm depending when I can glance at it. 4:88 gears and 255/85/16 Toyo Open Country MTS (33.4").

 

Thank you. I'm turning around 2900 rpm. I'm wondering if I'm not locking up. I know it's in overdrive because I can take it out of overdrive by pressing the button on the shift lever.

 

2 things did u check to make sure u arent just leaking PS fluid. And the 3.4 and 3.0 torque converters are differnt because the stall speeds in the TC are differnt. this will affect your mileage and power bands because the TC will be setup for the 3.0 power band.