sacredmagic

All fuses tested good and switch works fine tested good continuity for on position, and open for off position!

theMonch

Just finally got around to finishing up my system as well yesterday.

I can also confirm that the two wires (AC1 ACT) from the stock 3.0 A/C amplifier do not need to be hooked up , nor do the two from the 3.4 ECU. This is what I had done back two summers ago when I did the swap and I always second guessed myself that they would need to be used. I finally tracked down a leak I had at the low pressure inlet and charged her up. Once pressures were up to proper operational specs, everything seems to be working properly.

Thanks for the info. I think I can finally pull my conversion harness and wrap it up for good.

QuickSilver74

i had mine charged 2 days ago and the compressor kicked on the first time i hit the button. the AC is ICE COLD very glad you posted up this info!!!

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if we take the pin 2 of the Idle up AC VSV to ground when the AC is on, will it bring the idle up to compensate for the load from the AC compressor.
Has anyone tried that?
It seems to me that the new AC amplifier works the opposite the 3.0 ones. That's why when ac1 and ACT is hooked up, the engine idle high when AC is off and low when AC is off.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I used the 3.4 amplifier and my idle is up just fine and a/c is super cold. I will be looking into running a vsv for idle up on 2 of the swaps i've done to see if i can get it working right.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

If you do add idle up switch, be sure to document it well so we can add it to the A/C knowledgebase. I have not found it necessary at all to use one yet, but the subject does come up quite a bit.

Also the original post #1 is now updated to include info by NytWolf. He was having problems with the A/C compressor not kicking on at low idle. Follow the link to his post where he adjusted his low idle kick off on the A/C amplifier to fix this problem https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51944805

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

The idle up VSV switch is not the ideal solution. I just brought it up to see if anyone had done that. I think the best is to first research to see what's coming out of the ACT and AC1 output on the A/C amplifiers on both models.
The one A/C switch solution seems to be to reverse the signal to match what the ECU expects to see.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I see what you're saying but I like the "if it ain't broke" approach. So far nobody has claimed to need idle up. Me included. Always works, never stalls.

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

This is a awesome thread! Can't wait to hook up the AC in my setup.

roundhouse

OK,

so I have a 95
had a small underhood fire, along with a blown headgasket.

Swapped the 3.0 auto for a 1KZT turbodiesel 5 speed.

Im not getting any voltage from the B/W wire from the A/C amplifier at the connectors on the passenger kick panel.

where do I check next?

roundhouse

OK,

so I have a 95
had a small underhood fire, along with a blown headgasket.

Swapped the 3.0 auto for a 1KZT turbodiesel 5 speed.

Im not getting any voltage from the B/W wire from the A/C amplifier at the connectors on the passenger kick panel.

so Im missing all the sensors that are/were under the hood.

How much can I bypass without damaging the system or burning up some wires.?

none of the older cars from the 70s had any of the sensors, just a low and high pressure switch, the adjustable temp thermister setup,

I know I need to bypass the A/C cutout relay, and the engine temp sensor,
what else?

Red Wagon

Has anyone modded in the A/C with the swap?

I don't have AC but would like it when I do an engine swap.

Jason4X4

here is how I hooked up the a/c on my 4.3 swap

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/20032897-post98.html

Red Wagon

Your photos have gone buddy.

Jason4X4

they should be back on the first.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

sooooo, I may have figured out the idle up. You need a switched ground to the blue wire with yellow stripe at ecu plug. AC1 I believe. pull the 12 switched source from the magnetic clutch so when you turn on ac it will kick a relay to send a ground to AC1 and it will idle up. I think this could even be used to idle up for winching.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Verrry cool! Can't wait to try it myself. I'd love to add the info to the writeup if its successful for me too.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

It works so far on a 91 with 97 3.4 swapped into it. Haven't tried it on any other swaps yet.

dntsdad

Can't believe this is so easy and I've never even done it! Still without ac after 4 swapped years in central California where it's over 100 from May to September......everyday just about. One dang wire!? I read this thread a long time ago but never came back to it.

Anyway, this is all accurate for the 1st gen runners as well? Doing a swap into an 88 and old like the ac to work. Never saw anything in here except 3rd gen trucks so I would assume 2nd gen runners as well.

Just magnetic clutch wire from ECM to body harness connection?

I know absolutely nothing about ac except that I want it working.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

ONE DANG WIRE. That's it. If you originally had an automatic trans you'll have a pink wire that needs to be grounded. My buddy jd20phill confirmed working on an '88 Runner.