3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

HELP! 3.4 starts then dies!!!

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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:36 AM
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HELP! 3.4 starts then dies!!!

I have been fighting this thing for some time now and I really am lost. I talked to tmz to make sure my wiring is good and it is, we checked to make sure the ecm was good and it checked out ok, but I still cannot get it to run.

If I start it it will run for two seconds then die unless I almost completely cover the air intake. If I cover 90% of the intake tube the thing will idle and run but as soon as I take my hand off of the tube it will sputter and die no matter how hard I pump the gas or whatever. If I unplug the maf it will run just fine if you keep it below 2k and 1/4 throttle, it runs rich but I assume it defaults to a rich setting because the maf is unplugged. I tried a good maf from my buddies truck and it does the same thing. My fuel pump is running, it has gas, etc.

I AM LOST PLEASE HELP ME!!! $20 WILL BE PAYPAL TRANSFERED TO THE PERSON THAT TELLS ME WHATS WRONG WITH IT AND HELPS ME SO i CAN GET THIS THING RUNNING!!!
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:44 AM
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Check for air leaks. Are all hoses hooked up to their respective places? Torn/broken gaskets (throttle body, air chamber, intake manifold)?
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cadman
Check for air leaks. Are all hoses hooked up to their respective places? Torn/broken gaskets (throttle body, air chamber, intake manifold)?
The two hoses that are hook to the intake are not hooked up but I have hooked them to the manifold vac and I have also tried leaving them open and capping them. I do doubt this is a vac problem but well I am very lost. Fwiw Im not using any evap stuff.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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sounds like your motor is getting air from somewhere other than thru the MAF....i would say you need to hook up all hoses how they should be also making sure all sensors are plugged in TPS, MAF, etc.....and are you throwing any codes?

i had the same problem with my swap and my fuel pump would turn on just enough to start it....and then the fuel pump would turn off.

i would hook a test light to the power side of your fuel pump i think its on the IH2 plug....maybe IH1 not home at the moment to make sure.....

anyway make sure that light is always on.....mine would turn off just long enough to get it running then would shut off.....ended up having a wire missing on my conversion harness.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 03:02 PM
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I'm with Cadman on this one. I had a split vacuum line and it would bog and almost die. Check all the vacuum hoses for splits or cracks. If you have a pic of your engine's intake side of things, maybe we can spot something.

If not, then go with b18's suggestion.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by b18vteceg
sounds like your motor is getting air from somewhere other than thru the MAF....i would say you need to hook up all hoses how they should be also making sure all sensors are plugged in TPS, MAF, etc.....and are you throwing any codes?

i had the same problem with my swap and my fuel pump would turn on just enough to start it....and then the fuel pump would turn off.

i would hook a test light to the power side of your fuel pump i think its on the IH2 plug....maybe IH1 not home at the moment to make sure.....

anyway make sure that light is always on.....mine would turn off just long enough to get it running then would shut off.....ended up having a wire missing on my conversion harness.
I will check all my vac lines tomorrow and get back toyou guys. I can hear my pump running the whole time and I even used a switch to crontrol it so the pump is feeding fuel. So if the engine is getting air from somewhere other then the intake it would make it run with the maf disco-ed but not with it connected?
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 07:59 PM
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well im sure as you know a motor takes air, fuel, spark

even with all the electronics in the world its still the same....you could turn it over and spray carb cleaner in the manifold and the motor will run.

but to get it to run correct....of course the electronics need to be happy.

the maf needs to read all the air that's getting to the motor and if its' getting air from other places you will have all sorts of runability issues.


also you never answered.....any engine codes?

Last edited by b18vteceg; Jun 11, 2009 at 08:27 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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Factory service manuals
http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by b18vteceg
well im sure as you know a motor takes air, fuel, spark

even with all the electronics in the world its still the same....you could turn it over and spray carb cleaner in the manifold and the motor will run.

but to get it to run correct....of course the electronics need to be happy.

the maf needs to read all the air that's getting to the motor and if its' getting air from other places you will have all sorts of runability issues.


also you never answered.....any engine codes?
Won't run long enough to get any codes unless I cover 90% of the intake and then it throws cam position and my lack of a rear o2 sensor code. I just replaced the cam position with a brand new factory part.
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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cam position sensor probably isnt bad....might want to check to make sure your timing belt didnt slip a tooth or 2.....make sure your crank and your 2 cam gears are lined up correctly....you dont need o2 sensors to run....so i wouldnt worry about that right now....


if you dont want to pull off to check timing you could check compression in all cylinders.....that will give you a basic idea if you are close to in time or not....
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Fix air leaks this is your issue if its getting unmetered air from somewhere else its going to do this fix leaks!!!! All leaks must be 100% gone then you will see. any trouble codes?
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 07:00 AM
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I checked timing and it was around 10* so I guess thats about what it should be. The cam gears are lined up, but I have not checked the crank. I have tried running it with all vent lines capped and hooked up and nothing seams to change.
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 12:32 PM
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Also, check your maf. Had a similar issue when my MAF went bad. It sounds like a cracked hose, but if you change them out and still it occurs it could be the maf. I say this because when you limit the air flow and it runs, the MAF may read this as "correct".

The MAF controls the fuel pump. On mine what occurred was it would not send the electrical signal for the pump to stay on, so no fuel. I ended up bypassing the maf by hard wiring the pump until I got a new MAF sensor. Its easy to do at the test box.
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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If you don't have any leaks check to make sure you have the correct MAF for your year and motor. If so check to see if it is still good (wired properly).90% sure it has something to do with these three things. Good luck.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 07:44 AM
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try this....use some starter fluid or something like it.....open a vacuum line small one preferably and have someone crank it....when it starts give it a lil squirt.....dont go nutty just a lil somethin somethin......

if the rpms go up.....and you can keep it alive (i know it will be rough) but if it stays running you have a fuel problem.....if adding some spray does nothing.....its possible its killing spark.....

lets try that....see if we can get some answers.....
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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Was this ever fixed? I have exactly the same problem.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:34 AM
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I had a very similar problem when I did mine. It ended up being 2 things.
A wire from the ignitor telling the ECM the motor was running was not connected.
And the MAF sensor was in backwards.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 07:19 AM
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Which way does the arrow face on the maf?
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by UKrunner
Which way does the arrow face on the maf?
the other way
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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Nice!

I have the head pointed towards the engine.
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