daily driver 3.4 swap new to the EFI swap world.
#1
daily driver 3.4 swap new to the EFI swap world.
hey yall, well i have been frantically searching and looking and trying to figure out what i need to do to fix my daily driver so i figured id just start a thread about me trying to save my daily driver. my 89 toyota extended cab 4wd died friday night on the way home from work... 216k miles on it. i thought the fuel pump was bad or something cause it just acted like you turned the key off. i checked and it didnt seem to be working so i replaced it. still no start
i then checked spark at the coil, good spark. pulled a plug wire. good spark. pulled a plug and it looked like someone puked on it. spun the motor over and oil was misting out of the plug hole all the way onto the fender. ut oh.
so hear i am. a 89 toyota truck with a dead 3.0 5 speed 4wd in need of a heart transplant. i aquired a flipped 96 4runner about 4 months ago that i was gonna keep just in case the 3.0 died, and well im damn glad i did that. the 96 is a 3.4 auto trans 4wd. i figure ill just swap the 3.4 into the 89 and keep the 5 speed, from what i have seen its easier i guess. i have been floppin from forum to forum and tech artical to tech artical and im seeing some good info but not much on what i really need. so im gonna keep searching and start on this swap. if anyone wants to chime in and help me through this id be extra happy to talk with ya about it. my biggest concern is the wiring side of things and getting this thing back to being my daily driver.
more updates coming
i then checked spark at the coil, good spark. pulled a plug wire. good spark. pulled a plug and it looked like someone puked on it. spun the motor over and oil was misting out of the plug hole all the way onto the fender. ut oh.
so hear i am. a 89 toyota truck with a dead 3.0 5 speed 4wd in need of a heart transplant. i aquired a flipped 96 4runner about 4 months ago that i was gonna keep just in case the 3.0 died, and well im damn glad i did that. the 96 is a 3.4 auto trans 4wd. i figure ill just swap the 3.4 into the 89 and keep the 5 speed, from what i have seen its easier i guess. i have been floppin from forum to forum and tech artical to tech artical and im seeing some good info but not much on what i really need. so im gonna keep searching and start on this swap. if anyone wants to chime in and help me through this id be extra happy to talk with ya about it. my biggest concern is the wiring side of things and getting this thing back to being my daily driver.
more updates coming
#2
#3
Welcome to the swap section
Do some extensive reading in the 3.4 swap section. Vital gave you a direct link above.
First concerns you should have are:
1. Not all 3.4 cranks have the provision for a pilot bearing. You will have to check your particular motor to make sure if you are going to mate to your old R-150.
2. I have read a few things about people trying to use auto ECM and engine hanesses in a 5-speed swap, and from memory I don't remember anyone doing it successfully yet. (I could be wrong on this) Getting a matching 5-speed ECM and engine wiring harness will definetly make your job considerably easier.
3. I have found it helps to break the swap down into smaller systems or issues, so addressing them would be easier. For Example check out the first post in my swap thread here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-speed-207371/
First concerns you should have are:
1. Not all 3.4 cranks have the provision for a pilot bearing. You will have to check your particular motor to make sure if you are going to mate to your old R-150.
2. I have read a few things about people trying to use auto ECM and engine hanesses in a 5-speed swap, and from memory I don't remember anyone doing it successfully yet. (I could be wrong on this) Getting a matching 5-speed ECM and engine wiring harness will definetly make your job considerably easier.
3. I have found it helps to break the swap down into smaller systems or issues, so addressing them would be easier. For Example check out the first post in my swap thread here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-speed-207371/
#4
Do some extensive reading in the 3.4 swap section. Vital gave you a direct link above.
First concerns you should have are:
1. Not all 3.4 cranks have the provision for a pilot bearing. You will have to check your particular motor to make sure if you are going to mate to your old R-150.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-speed-207371/
First concerns you should have are:
1. Not all 3.4 cranks have the provision for a pilot bearing. You will have to check your particular motor to make sure if you are going to mate to your old R-150.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-speed-207371/
FALSE!!! they all DO have them. No way toyota would only drill some for a pilot bearing.
#5
Lots of guys that auto ECMs with manuals; without a CEL is another story. Dingman over at Marlin, and 904Runner are two that I can think of off the top of my head.
#7
This is straight from ORS website tech section. I am only refrencing what I have read. This is in regards to the pilot bearing issue and the manual ECM and wiring harness issue.
"If you are using a manual transmission, the 3.4L engine will need to come from a manual transmission vehicle. In SELECT year models we have found a difference in crankshaft machining from the factory. In these instances an engine from an automatic transmission application will not accept a pilot bearing. Another reason to purchase a manual transmission "package" is the difference in electronics. The engine ECU and the engine wiring harness are completely different from manual to auto. Based off experience, we recommend purchasing all the used parts from one manual transmission vehicle. Once again, purchasing all used parts from the same donor vehicle has been proven to prevent grouchy mood swings."
"If you are using a manual transmission, the 3.4L engine will need to come from a manual transmission vehicle. In SELECT year models we have found a difference in crankshaft machining from the factory. In these instances an engine from an automatic transmission application will not accept a pilot bearing. Another reason to purchase a manual transmission "package" is the difference in electronics. The engine ECU and the engine wiring harness are completely different from manual to auto. Based off experience, we recommend purchasing all the used parts from one manual transmission vehicle. Once again, purchasing all used parts from the same donor vehicle has been proven to prevent grouchy mood swings."
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#9
Not looking to go back and forth with this forever, since the thread has been jacked for long enough, but saying "ORS is retarded..." I think is a bit harsh. I know of more than a few people that have found there research invaluable. I don't think either one of us would be able to definitively prove this anyway. All I know is.
1. One of the premiere 3.4 swap resources (out of business or not) has mentioned it.
2. There have been a total of 4 distinct 3.4 crank part numbers over the different years (all point back to one number now, but this leads me to believe there were 4 different parts at some point)
3. Toyota stopped all manual production on 2000-up 4runners and sales on manual Tacomas, Tundras also accounted for less than 10% of total sales on average per year.
It reallly isn't that rediculous for someone to have made a decision to have certain runs of crank production not have the pilot bearing machining to reduce costs. Especially when automatics accounted for over 90% of the use of the 5VZ.
This being said, it would only be prudent to check the motor to be sure. It would suck to get started and later learn that the motor is incompatible.
1. One of the premiere 3.4 swap resources (out of business or not) has mentioned it.
2. There have been a total of 4 distinct 3.4 crank part numbers over the different years (all point back to one number now, but this leads me to believe there were 4 different parts at some point)
3. Toyota stopped all manual production on 2000-up 4runners and sales on manual Tacomas, Tundras also accounted for less than 10% of total sales on average per year.
It reallly isn't that rediculous for someone to have made a decision to have certain runs of crank production not have the pilot bearing machining to reduce costs. Especially when automatics accounted for over 90% of the use of the 5VZ.
This being said, it would only be prudent to check the motor to be sure. It would suck to get started and later learn that the motor is incompatible.
#10
Sheepdawg
I think the best thing for you to do is read your butt off and write down things you are unclear on and then post up a list. More than enough guys to take them apart one by one.
I tried to cover just about everything in my thread but surely there are things that I missed.
I think the best thing for you to do is read your butt off and write down things you are unclear on and then post up a list. More than enough guys to take them apart one by one.
I tried to cover just about everything in my thread but surely there are things that I missed.
#11
hmm... this is interesting. im reading alot of stuff and some of its making sense and some of its not. im wondering, since i have the complete 96 truck, could i just swap the engine trans and tcase into my 89 truck? i kinda wouldnt mind swappin to an auto trans seein how its my daily driver anyways. if i just swapped the whole system over wouldnt that cut down on the "conversion" stuff?
#12
yup much easier but your "new" transfer case drops on the other side to hook up the front end. You would need to buy a older (stronger) gear driven transfer case (about $100) and an adapter for it ($300-350).
Since you are not n California, thats probably your easiest option
Since you are not n California, thats probably your easiest option
#13
HA... man it would be fun to not have to row through the gears while im textin on the cell phone and tryin to get the hell out of peoples way in a slow ass toyota.. LOL... ok so i cant put my current tcase into the auto trans? prolly not since you said id need to get that adapter and stuff... i havent seen much writeup on swappin the 3.4 and auto into the older trucks. that sounds like what i want to do.
#14
no the cases are not interchangable. Also, you will have to find a driveline from a truck that came with an auto, and the mount will have to be fabbed a bit.
I have your exact same setup in my 92 right now, although its getting ready to come out a replaced with a 5 speed.
The auto is nice, but we want a manual. Just preference.
I have your exact same setup in my 92 right now, although its getting ready to come out a replaced with a 5 speed.
The auto is nice, but we want a manual. Just preference.
#15
aight well i took a couple pics.. its gonna be a few days before i can start actually doin the wrench part of this swap.. i gotta get my shop clean out, actually am doin a SAS swap on a 91 bronco. the money ill make off of that is already spent so i still havent figured out if im gonna do the 3.4auto swap or just the 3.4 swap and keep the manual. im gonna keep searching and see what setup is ideal for me.
the poor heartbroke truck. it actually came from the factory with 4.56 gears.
here is the doner vehicle.. flipped 96 4runner
im gonna have to get the right throttle body on that 4runner.. the dumb dumb that had it before me took it off and got it mixed up between 3 different throttle bodys then sold the truck with 2 of the throttle bodys in it.. and the 4 runner got a throttle body that obviously aint right. this is gonna get exciting quick i fear.
the poor heartbroke truck. it actually came from the factory with 4.56 gears.
here is the doner vehicle.. flipped 96 4runner
im gonna have to get the right throttle body on that 4runner.. the dumb dumb that had it before me took it off and got it mixed up between 3 different throttle bodys then sold the truck with 2 of the throttle bodys in it.. and the 4 runner got a throttle body that obviously aint right. this is gonna get exciting quick i fear.
#16
I hope that 96 runner had the headgasket recal done. Early 3.4 5vz had headgasket issues.
Monch I'm not gonna argue with you bro. ORS's info is outdated. They also said you needed their fuel line kit to connect the 3.4 fuel line to the hard line on your rig.
Sheep make sure you reposition the fuel line on the 3.4 before you put it in your truck, and if you need to drill the block to relocate the dipstick do it while you have the motor on a stand and engine mounts removed. Label the parts you'll need from the 3.0 so you dont' mix up with the 3.4 parts. Don't forget to swap the oil pressure sending unit so you dont' blow the guage on your truck and make sure you do the "tach mod"
Monch I'm not gonna argue with you bro. ORS's info is outdated. They also said you needed their fuel line kit to connect the 3.4 fuel line to the hard line on your rig.
Sheep make sure you reposition the fuel line on the 3.4 before you put it in your truck, and if you need to drill the block to relocate the dipstick do it while you have the motor on a stand and engine mounts removed. Label the parts you'll need from the 3.0 so you dont' mix up with the 3.4 parts. Don't forget to swap the oil pressure sending unit so you dont' blow the guage on your truck and make sure you do the "tach mod"
#17
#19
thanks guys, yall keep throwin up info and im seadily writing it down and im actually getting alittle more calm about this. im an old school chevy mud truck guy, this stuff is a kinda new venture for me, but i can handle it. is it just me or could that dude that wrote that artical use any smaller font robD? LOL... good info... thanks again
#20
You should be able to zoom the page larger with your browser, or buy new glasses
Mechanically, the swap is easy and you can probably do most of the grunt work in about a week or less, given your experience level and motivation.
The electronics aren't bad. You're basically splicing the computer to the truck harness. All in all, I think there's about 26 wires you need to cross-reference and splice.
Mechanically, the swap is easy and you can probably do most of the grunt work in about a week or less, given your experience level and motivation.
The electronics aren't bad. You're basically splicing the computer to the truck harness. All in all, I think there's about 26 wires you need to cross-reference and splice.