3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

Buying a complete 3.4 + wiring and ecu right now - quick help

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Old 11-14-2008, 08:26 AM
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Buying a complete 3.4 + wiring and ecu right now - quick help

Hi guys have been kinda forced into the swap and have not researched it much yet. My 3.0 is toast and I just bought a 3.4 with wiring ecu and crossover for $775. It is being pulled right now and I pick it up in about 3 hours.

Questions:

Doing this on a 1991 3.0 Auto 4wd. Dont care about smog - no test in michigan.
Doner vehicle is 98 4runner auto 4wd.

Can I use my original transmission?
Can I use the 3.4 oil pan?
Is there a good link to all the parts I need for a swap?
This is a very budget minded swap as I was hoping to originally fix the 3.0.

There will be countless more questions I'm sure. I'm searching as I type this trying to not ask all the same questions but I am in a time crunch as I will only be able to pick over and take anything I need from the doner vehicle this afternoon only.
Old 11-14-2008, 09:58 AM
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Well, looks like I can keep my original transmission and take the oil pan off the 3.0. Why must the dipstick be moved?
Should I use the 3.0 ps pump and ac compressor? I managed to remove the 3.0 and keep the pump and compressor connected to their hoses so they don't need bleeding or refilling.
Old 11-14-2008, 02:53 PM
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The auto-auto thing I cannot answer one hundred percent, but they should bolt straight up. You might throw codes because the newer auto has more sensors, if memory serves.

As for moving the dipstick, it's because you have to use your 3.0 pan to clear your front diff. It's shaped differently (you'll also have to use the baffle and pickup tube). There should be a plug in the block in the same location as the dipstick tube on your 3.0. All I had to do was drive out the plug and put in the dipstick plug from my 3.0.

I used the PS pump and A/C compressor that came with the 3.4, so I can't be of any help to you there, but I do know that they bolted straight up to the 3.4 pump, so I'm guessing your pump should fit the bracket on the 3.4.

http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48/

Andy's site is good for info. Give it a shot.
Old 11-14-2008, 02:59 PM
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http://www.offroadsolutions.com/engi...3.4l_swap_kits
Old 11-14-2008, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RobD
The auto-auto thing I cannot answer one hundred percent, but they should bolt straight up. You might throw codes because the newer auto has more sensors, if memory serves.

As for moving the dipstick, it's because you have to use your 3.0 pan to clear your front diff. It's shaped differently (you'll also have to use the baffle and pickup tube). There should be a plug in the block in the same location as the dipstick tube on your 3.0. All I had to do was drive out the plug and put in the dipstick plug from my 3.0.

I used the PS pump and A/C compressor that came with the 3.4, so I can't be of any help to you there, but I do know that they bolted straight up to the 3.4 pump, so I'm guessing your pump should fit the bracket on the 3.4.

http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48/

Andy's site is good for info. Give it a shot.

Andy's site is good. Looks like this isnt that hard to do.

Create new fuel lines
Use existing ac compressor, swap pulleys
Use 3.4 ps pump
Swap battery location
Change starter wiring (solenoid)
fab up new location for vacuum cruise control
fab crossover pipe
splice wiring
use a hot air intake instead of 3.4 intake
reuse 3.0 engine mounts
reuse 3.0 oil pan, baffle and pick up tube
block orignal dipstick port, create new on other side of block
Use T100 dipstick and fittings
swap oil pressure sensor


Then there is vacuum and emmisions routing. Any good diagrams for this?
Old 11-14-2008, 08:39 PM
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I reused my 3.0 dipstick tube and dipstick, since it's going into the same original pan.

Toyota Techinfo is your best bet for resources. It's $10 per day and you can download manuals to your heart's content.

Don't forget the tach mod. You have to wire a resistor across two terminals as posted in this forum, post 23:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...der-2k-141638/
Old 11-14-2008, 08:41 PM
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If you use a shorter intake tube (almost like making your own cold air tube) you could possibly leave the battery in the stock location. I'm contemplating that next year and then running a dual battery setup by putting a battery back in the old location.
Old 11-15-2008, 01:48 PM
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you can keep the 3.0 ac compressor, and you don't have to open the lines. however, you have to swap the pulley and magnetic clutch for ones from a 3.4. i used the 3.4 power steering pump, so i can't help you there.
Old 11-16-2008, 11:19 AM
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Well, I've been given some good news! I get everything I need off the donor vehicle for $850. Slightly bad news is the loom will be cut.

What wiring do I need from the donor? Any pics of the behind glove box area?
Old 11-16-2008, 02:03 PM
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You'll need all the plugs that go into the back of the ECU. Those don't need any splicing. You won't need the two body harness plugs (the ones that plug in behind the computer) since you'll be splicing on your old body harness plugs.
Old 11-16-2008, 02:43 PM
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yeah what rob said, make sure you get the harness uncut, if its is cut, i have a auto engine harness and ecu ill sell ya for $50 plus shipping
Old 11-16-2008, 03:56 PM
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I've not seen the donor car so correct me if I'm wrong, does the engine harness come through the firewall at the pass side like my 91, and does that harness go straight into the ecu? Can it be pulled throught the firewall with out cuting then? sounds like it can.
Old 11-16-2008, 04:42 PM
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nothing should have to be destroyed to be removed.
Old 11-16-2008, 08:33 PM
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It passes through without being cut. I think there is a bolt that holds it on, but I can't remember for sure, but nothing needs hacking.
Old 11-17-2008, 04:11 PM
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Well, $775 turned into $850 and I got about 90% of everything under the hood, not 100% as promised. The loom is hacked to pieces. Cut at the firewall, cuts all over the engine bay, and cut behind the glovebox. I do not have the OBDII harness nor any of the harness running down the pass side inner fender which looks like it connects to valves and such.
One of the engine mounts has been cut through with a torch, all ps and ac lines are cut.I had to fight to get the maf and intake system and the connectors behind the glovebox which were promised for the all in price of $775.
Block is filthy but no sign of big oil leaks. Throttle butterfly looks clean and the timing belt was changed 60,000 miles ago.comes with a 30 day warranty from date of first fire up rather than date of purchase as long as fire up occurs less than 2 weeks after purchase.


So guys, the big deadline!! I HAVE to get this up and running to fetch my parents from the airport on December 22nd. This is 5 weeks today. The wiring is a major set back regarding time but I'm not concerned about the difficulty - heck I design wiring looms for a living!

I want to get this bolted in tomorow night, so a couple of questions...

Torque convertor is gone, will the 3.0 torque convertor bolt up and play nice with the 3.4 flywheel?
I swap engine mounts right?
What should I plug the oil dipstick hole with?
Will the 3.0 starter and wiring bolt right in or do I need the 3.4 starter and loom?
I've switched the fuel feed line over already.
Crossover - not sure which way to go with this yet. Is it possible to run a wrapped pipe down the pasenger side and use the 3.4 crossover?


And if anyone has a 98 4Runner 4x4 auto loom in perfect condition they want to sell, let me know asap.

This is the hacked ecu loom.


Old 11-17-2008, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by UKrunner

Torque convertor is gone, will the 3.0 torque convertor bolt up and play nice with the 3.4 flywheel?
I swap engine mounts right?
What should I plug the oil dipstick hole with?
Will the 3.0 starter and wiring bolt right in or do I need the 3.4 starter and loom?
I've switched the fuel feed line over already.
Crossover - not sure which way to go with this yet. Is it possible to run a wrapped pipe down the pasenger side and use the 3.4 crossover?



Not sure about the torque converter, but I'm pretty sure you shouldn't bolt a torque converter to a flywheel...do you mean flexplate?

Tap the oil dipstick hole with a 1/4" NPT tap and run a 1/4" plug in. Takes 5 minutes.

Use your 3.0 engine mounts.

I used the 3.4 starter. I'm not sure, but I think the 3.0 starter should bolt up. I do remember that one of the starters had threaded mounts and I had to ream it out with a drill to get it to bolt onto the bellhousing. I think.

Someone has done the passenger side exhaust drop, then routed it under the transmission. If you have a welder, there is a sticky in the swap section about doing the crossover yourself for about $3.
Old 11-17-2008, 05:57 PM
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DUDE. SEARCH SEARCH AND READ READALL DAY TONIGHT and maybe tommorow...you will be a pro...getitboltedin.. order the parts your need and just giver
Old 11-17-2008, 06:01 PM
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Not sure if I mentioned this, but it all likelihood you'll need to use your 3.0 alternator wiring harness. My 3.4 harness (like Andy's) did nothing, so I grafted the 3.4 alternator plug onto the 3.0 harness and voila, worked like a charm.
Old 11-17-2008, 06:08 PM
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I've been reading, but I'm just verifying before I start - consider it my insurance policy. I have to do this quick and right the first time. I'm also looking after my 1 year old and running a company. Not enough hours in the day to do all the in depth searching I'd normally give a project. I hate being that guy that asks questions that are already answered, so I apologize for that.

Thanks for the help so far guys. I dont have a welder so if I can keep the current crossover and about 5 feet of exhaust, I can get it to an exhaust shop 4 miles away and get them to finish the job for me. I'll wrap it to keep the heat down, and I can wrap the fuel lines and cables with thermally reflective tape I use when building high power lights.
Old 11-17-2008, 06:11 PM
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...0&pagenumber=1

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