Are these needed? I have all my wiring done and cannot figure out why my engine won't fire. Cranked no prob, just no fire.

Fuel pump is coming on, gettin +12V to/from the igniter... ?? Kind of at a loss as to what even check next.

I did my best to run all circuits as the factory designed them to- down to the shielding on the shielded SIL data link wire.

Everything soldered, good connections.

 

you're not using a limited 99 ecu are you? If so, that would be your problem. Get a SR5 ecu of the same year and you should be good after that if all your wiring is correct

 

Why is this? Theft deterrent system?

 

I dont think thats my problem.

There was a wire or two on the EWD- aside from plug C- that were specific to the immobilizer system that were not there. I got the ENTIRE dash harness and engine harness; I'm quite certain if it had the immobilizer system I would have received that wiring as well.

Does FC still provide ground if the ECU is the immobilizer version? Because the COR is kicking on like it should.

The IGSW pin originally got power through the ignition circuit IG2. The IGN 10A fuse was tapped off the B-R IG2 right after the ignition sw and went straight to the ECU- seems like it may be a vital pin to have +12V.

MREL was simply the EFI relay trigger- which the 3.0 used the body harness for, so I don't think I need MREL.

 

I just checked spark with a timing light, and it seems I have no spark. +12v to the igniter though...is this what the immobilizer does? Stops spark signal? I really don't think I have an immobilizer ECU- what else could cause no spark?

Also, I've read to check the COR wiring, you're supposed to have your girlfriend- no exceptions- turn the key to ON and listen for the pump to kick on. Problem is, it doesn't kick on until the key hits START... When I manually ground FC with the ignition at ON, it kicks the pump on loud and clear. So I know voltage is at the COR when the ignition is at ON, FC just doesn't provide a path to ground until the key gets turned to START.

 

If I remember correctly, if you have a limited 99 ecu it will have "limited" or "LTD" or something that indicateds a limited ECU labeled on it. So its really easy to tell or not if you have one. If you do have it, its a real bitch to bypass.

If not then you might have missed a wiring connection somewhere, and are just to focused on the problem to see it. I get like that sometimes. Find something to distract you for a while to get you mind off the problem then go back to it.

Its been quite a while since I have done my 3.4 swap so the details are really really fuzzy with what wire goes where. I would have to go back and review the EWD

 

exactly

 

You have the body of the ignitor grounded bolted, thus grounding, to a solid piece of metal?

 

Yup, first thing I double checked when I had no spark.

Since my pump comes on with the starter relay, but not when you turn the key to ON, I'm wondering if my ECU has a good path to ground. Is the ECU what kicks the pump on when you turn the key to ON(via FC)? That would explain no spark since the ECU needs ground to provide a spark signal...or any other signal for that matter. I've read the body of the ecu does not need to be grounded, so I dontthink that's my issue.

I'll have to see where the ECU should be getting a path to ground from and if that wire is hooked up when I get home.

Thanks for the responses so far!

 

man you still never got it huh? I will take a look at my ewd's and see if I can see anything that could be killing spark.

 

So +B has power to it. All over the place right? ISV, o2, MAF, etc... Its the W-L wire. Also, can you see if there is power going to your coil packs? You said there was to the positive of the ignitor. Not sure if you need to be cranking while you test them. This would kinda follow the path to your no spark condition. If you say you don't have the 3 wires on plug 'c' for the theft stuff, then it should be like any other ecu..

Also the ECU doesn't need to have it's case grounded. There are a bunch of grounds coming out of it. Obviously you would still want to mount it somewhere so it doesn't get banged around everywhere.

Let me know what the results are.

-Chris

 

The ECM does not have to be grounded. I have ran mine before with it laying on the carpet. There is a ground wire that has to be hooked up. I dont know the pin on your ECM but usually Toyota ground wires are brown.

The pump should turn on in the ON position as well as cranking.

It seems you have an ignition wire that is not connected, or at least that is what I would be checking considering you have no spark (ignition) and the pump doesnt come on with the key to IGN. Both those add up to the ECM not knowing the IGN is active IMO. Could also be the ground wire is not connected as well.

 

I didn't change the way the COR operated on the 3.0 besides it getting FC from the ECU instead of from the AFM.

It's triggered from the starter relay- which is why it comes on when I crank it over- but it has a secondary trigger(as we all know) which is FC. If it's supposed to come on when the key is at ON, that must mean the ECU is supposed to kick it on at that point.

That's why I'm wanting to check grounds. When I ground FC with the ignition ON, fuel pump kicks on stat. So obviously FC is not provididng a path to ground and I need to figure out why.

 

well Hot wire the pump so its running hot then try. Did you change the timing belt? Maybe you're off a few teeth and the cam/crank sensors aren't triggering for spark at the right time. I really really hope its not a limited issue.

 

Yeah I did ground FC("hotwire" the COR- whatever you want to call it), and tried starting it but no go.

Although that was before I found out I have no spark...

Looking over the engine control EWD again, I have NO idea where to even start; completely stumped.

I wish I knew what exactly the immobilizer immobilizes... I'm quite certain its not a Limited issue, but it is a possibility.

Cliff @ Toyonlyswaps said he had this same ECU number in his wheeler- along with another 10 swaps or so- without issue... Then I talked to Justin and he said he's had that ECU number with and without the immobilizer, so theres no way to tell from the outside if it has the system or not- unless of course you have the VIN- which I do not. Run-on sentence anyone?

Anyway, Im gonna go test some wires.

 

Welp, just an idiot.

Apparently it helps to put it in the right hole...

 

The white-red/white-lightblue- aka +B to everything- was in the wrong pin.

Thanks for all the replies and time fellas.

PS, aside from the starter excite wire 100% of my wiring was done in the pass kick panel... IH1 and IH2.

 

Good that you figured it out!! Sometimes the pin numbers get confusing an the wire colors don't always match up like they should.

 

It would be a bad idea to drive the runner 10 miles to the exhaust shop with the exhaust ending right after my crossover, right?

I made a nice, easy to read spreadsheet I'll post up after it's all straightened out. It has the wire color, plug and pin number of each year and exactly what I did- ie: soldered, re-pinned, etc.

The way I did it bypasses the P/N start sw, and is obviously specific to '92 A/T to '99 M/T- but it might be of help to someone sometime. And like I said, 100% of my wiring was done in the pass kick panel(I had said except the starter wire, but actually that WAS done in the pass kick panel).

The only reason I emphasize that, is because as well as I remember, every swap thread I've read, people have messed with various other wiring. Ie- P/N switch jumper, COR jumper, etc.

Gotta get my triple stick setup fabbed up, brakes bled, exhause ran, radiator hoses ran, and hopefully I'll be on the road!

 

I ran mine like that for 26 miles to my uncles shop to get the exhaust done. Loud, yes, bad... meh... You may actuall notice some bottom end power increase with exhaust. Otherwise I really noticed no difference in power.