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https://goo.gl/photos/VgvF5piWGknBjMmS6

 

Got your tach working yet? I got mine working with the 10k ohm diode mod

 

Not yet, I bought the resistor already but I am kind of procrastinating on actually pulling the dash apart to get it out. I haven't had that part of the dash pulled apart before so I don't really know how to get in there and I don't want to break anything. How long did it take you to pull everything apart and get it back together? Maybe I will have to try it this weekend if I get time. I really wanna finish up all of the welding and cutting while the weather is good.

Once I am in there I am hoping I can clean up the oil or grease or whatever is leaking around all of my gauges..

 

It didn't take long at all. I think the hardest part is to get the speedo cable unhooked. While your in there you should check and make sure all the little nuts on your temp gauge are tight. I heard they loosen over time and your gauge works funky. Read the definitive temp gauge fix. It has plenty of pics to help guide you.

 

Pic isn't showing up on this. Kind of seeing the same thing that bk is reporting...

Gotta know where you got the reflective loom at. You know the heat specs on it? I haven't dressed this part of my harness up yet because I was unsure to find the loom you have or to wrap it in some reflective tape. My plan was to use some wire loom clips that seat into the frame. I actually have a box full of them ranging in sizes. You can buy a kit or a set of the clips off of amazon but be careful! Each set/clip may be for a different sized hole and the frame has limited holes where you would dress it at. I don't know the diameter of these holes as I haven't taken a calipers to them otherwise I'd be able to push you in a specific direction. I'll probably wait to do this until I'm ready to drive the truck...

 

Also don't be afraid of removing the tac cluster. It's only a few phillips screws / bolts. They just kind of snap into place. You shouldn't need to remove the whole dash. Only the black trim around the cluster and it should be held by roughly 4 phillips screws. At least this was the case for my 91.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I didnt get time this weekend to dive into it but soon!

That is a real bummer.. im going to try something different today to link the images in, hopefully with different results. I would be curious to know if you guys notice a specific picture showing up sometimes but not others, or if its always the same picture that wont load properly.

As for the reflective loom, I got it off amazon and it claims to be able to hold up to a 1000F heat source at 1" away. Not sure if I believe that, but either way I dont think it will get too near that with the space I have between my pipes and the loom so it should be good. Here is a link to some of the stuff I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some good updates to report today, finally..

I got my evap and battery all mounted and ready to go. Two big headaches out of the way. I ended up making a battery tray pretty similar to some of the ones you can purchase, and to be honest, If i did it again, I would probably save myself all the work and just buy the damn tray instead of making one. Pretty sure between the time and materials I am way over budget on it. I ended up mounting the battery tray with 2 bolts while having it rest on about 1" of rubber foam matting on the fender. I glued 3 sheets together and sorta cut them to fit the area to help give the tray and fender some cushion while also helping distribute the load evenly. Time will tell if this was a good idea or not.

All welded up and ready for final prep and paint


Foam padding cut and placed


Final Test Fit


Everything all painted up and getting installed


Evap box mounts, I also ended up putting a little foam under this as well


New battery cables getting hooked up! Put another 150 amp breaker in from the alt to battery connection like I it previously on the passenger side


Power to the fuse boxs and starter all hooked up. I am running the starter cable behind the grill because I already had upgraded this wire to 2 gauge when I put in my new alternator. Assuming the 150 amp circut breaker can handle the starter, I will really like this extra layer of protection. I have had my starter motor stick on before and this will be a great way stop that if it ever happens again! This also keeps it a bit cleaner, with out the 5vz battery harness I will just run the starer trigger wire from inside the cab down to the starter like it was on the 3.0 originally. Just need to figure out where to put a ground cable on the engine block from the battery.



I am curious, what did you guys do about your clutch line mounting bracket that went to the head from the fire wall? I cant get a good method to mount it with the stock bracket and might have to make something but I wanted to check first and see if I am missing anything obvious.

Almost forgot, I also got my intermediate pipe started, just waiting on a few more feet for 2.25" pipe and I should be able to finish up the exhaust.



Were getting close!

 

Two quick questions for anyone with a good answer

I am having quite the time trying to figure out what these two ports hook up to on the EVAP. It seems like good reference pictures for the line routing are hard to find, especially the longer I look. I know one of them connects up to the intake box, and the other is some type of vent.. but I dont understand where the vent line goes, it just disappears in all the pics i can find.



Air box mounting.. My airbox wants to sit kind of cockeyed in there, i never noticed this on any of the other build threads. I was hoping to line it up nice and square because this looks pretty funky to me. Am i missing something here?



Thanks guys

 

Vent line on the 4Runner I got mine from went down to the frame by the front tire.

 

My air box sits crooked to but I think I can bend it somewhat straighter with a stiff mount. Also I think we need to drill a good size hole in the inner fender for the air box to get fresh air from. I have an 02 Tacoma that has a fitting mounted in the inner fender for the air box intake to slide into

 

Fantastic thanks! I'll likely be purchasing this for the same use! May put it where this harness drops down past the manifolds too.

Sorry not laughing at you... I'm laughing because there was a time in my build that I was so tired of making mounts. I nearly went out and bought a plasma cutter because I was tired of cleaning the slag off of the torched scrap plate steel I have been using. For me it was worth it though because the ORS battery box was priced at what it is and I believe there was another $20+ for shipping. The shipping killed it for me. So I made my own, saved probably $100 and in the end I'm happy with it. After some time passes I think you'll be happy too The tray looks good! Curious how that foam will hold up with the weight of the battery though. You didn't want to put some angle iron or anything under it to support it?[/QUOTE]

Look on drivers side at very bottom of block just above oil pan lip. Should be below and just rear of the oil filter. I believe it's a 10mm x 1.25mm bolt. Careful on length as I don't recall hole depth. There should be 2 of them but I believe it's the one nearest to the front of the block. Like I said... very close to oil filter

Stock bracket wouldn't work for me. It was too short and it interfered with the engine harness. I took some plate steel and made my own. It'll go alot faster than your battery tray I promise You only need to cut and bend the steel. Then use drill press to get your holes. Step bits are great btw if you don't have any. Here's the side by side of mine.



For more in depth, link to post in build thread;

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52347387

bklf already hit the nail but to drive it further... The other port is for the vent line and is tucked into one of the holes of the frame. In your case, likely an oval one. Your 3.0 charcoal canister breather line did the exact same thing or at least it should have... tucked into the inner frame channel.

My box is also a little corked but I don't think cutting out the snorkel hole is necessary. But that's my opinion...

 

I wasn't sure if the hole for the air box was necessary either. I just happened to look at the Tacoma I had and noticed it. I was going to leave it be for now and see what happens

 

Awesome, thanks for the info, I got the lines all hooked up and one more thing off the check list!

This is unfortunate, I cant get mine to sit straight with out really tweaking the intake piping and causing it to bend weird with too much force on it, I am afraid its not a good idea. I really want to use the stock air box, I guess I will have to put it in there crooked, possibly also doing the deck plate 'mod' to help free up air flow from that intake pipe being stuck up real close to the inner fender. I really dont want to cut into the fender.

Yeah you are right, I am pretty much over making brackets. Just takes too long. I am lucky enough to have borrowed a friends plasma cutter and welder so that has made life easier. Its amazing how hard the metal gets after you cut it with a torch, its like glass almost.

I probably should have put another bracket off the battery tray and attached it to the fender better but, I kind of rushed it and have been trying to avoid as many holes as I can. Dont like cutting up the stock metal too much.

Thanks for the advice on the ground wire, got that made up last night thanks to your help. I ended up having it connect to the bottom of my driver side engine mount right next to the oil filter, I assume this is the hole you were talking bout. Mine was being used because I have the older style engine mounts, but still worked out ok.

Sounds like I have one or two more brackets to make for the clutch. Really didnt want to open up the clutch line and have to bleed it, ah well.

Here is what is remaining on my To Do List:

• Air Intake Mounting
• Fabricate Clutch line bracket to left cylinder head
• Paint clutch and throttle cable brackets
• Intermediate Pipe fit and weld http://www.ttora.com/forum/10-parts-...n-sensors.html
• Exhaust connect up muffler to intermediate pipe
• 10k Ohm Resistor to tach https://www.yotatech.com/f160/my-fir...l#post52083648
• Wire Starter Trigger
• Wire 10amp fuse to ECU between ign wire from power source
• Power Steering Pressure Hose Install (at hose shop getting fittings swapped so i can retain the idle up sensor)
• A/C Low Pressure Hose install (at hose shop getting extended)
• A/C new Dryer install
• Torque Crank Pulley Bolt
• Install Radiator, Fan, Shroud
• Radiator Hose Upper and Lower Install/Cut
• Fill all fluids, Coolant, power steering, windshield
• Fill Engine with Oil and Oil Filter / oil tube as much as possible
• Double check everything
• Start engine...!

 

And the list shrinks a little more.

After a lot of swearing I was finally able to get the rest of the wiring finalized after hooking up my starter trigger wire and the injector/ign power wires with the inline fuse to the ecu. Turned my key to START and was able to hear my fuel pump kick on which was a good sign, starter trigger wire showed 12v at well. I think my soldering iron is on its way out, couldn't get enough heat into the thicker wires and ended up having to solder it with a small torch, which was frustrating. But it is done, at least I think so. I double heatshrinked all of the dead end wires, just waiting until I can get some miles on the truck before I will bundle up the wires and hide them all away.



I gave up trying to tweak the throttle cable bracket and just made a new one, its not pretty but it works and gives me better adjustability than I had after screwing around with the stock one. Once i get the SC on there this all goes out the window, but hopefully it looks a little better to the CA ref than the mangled stock one. One less red flag.



Its starting to look pretty full in there, I should be able to pick up my A/C and Power Steering hose on friday. Once I get those installed, the rest of the cooling system can go in, fan, radiator, hoses and whatnot.



The rainy weather is about to hit for the next several days, finalizing the exhaust is going to have to wait a little longer. I was able to get my intermediate pipe tacked together but I need to rework my connection to the muffler and add back in a few hangers.

 

Things are really moving along now!! I just got back from Tri Valley Hose, they did a great job extending my A/C low pressure hose by 2 inches and swapping the head from the 3.4 PS pressure hose over to my 3.0 hose so I have the idle up sensor. I know this wasn't really needed but why go this far, spend all this time and not get the last few check boxes you know?

And thanks to you guys for the tach mod encouragement I pulled apart my dash cluster last night, cleaned up my gauge faces as best I could and soldered in my resistor. Got it all back together this morning and everything seems to be looking good. Turns out the seepage I was seeing around my gauge faces was infact oil from the grease that was coming out of my speedo cable. Im sure baking in the hot CA sun for the last almost 30 summers thinned it out enough to get a few drips from the cable connection to the bottom of the cluster inside, from there it just slowly spread out crawling around the gauge cluster interior until it reached the gauge faces like water does on a wet napkin. I used some dish soap and water to clean the black plastic on the gauges and it helped quite a bit. Its not perfect but looks a lot better.

3.4 Head on the 3.0 hose



AC hose actually fitting up to the firewall They basically remade an entirely new hose while reusing the pump side fitting.


You can see pretty clearly in this picture how the oil in the grease seeped up around everything


Resistor soldered up


Everything all back together. Dont forget to put the tach gauge needle back one while you have your ignition set to on!



Just have to finish up the exhaust, put the cooling system back together and I should be ready to start it!

 

Long day, here is the money shot. I have a p0100 code popping up, but everything else seems good!!


edit: I swapped out the maf sensor and cleaned it. No more cel, drove it around d for a half hour, took it up a small hill, on the freeway and around town.. runs good!! Phew. Trans seems to be shifting well too.

Now to get this through the BAR, put the supercharger on and setup the 7th injector kit.

The never ending project
​

 

Put about 30 miles on it so far, everything is running great. Definitely has a nice bump in power and runs smooth. Also noticeably quieter than my 3vz was under the hood. Going to keep driving it around town this week and see if I can get all of the tests to complete in the ECU, then schedule my visit to the bar.

Here is another video of it running after I got a chance to swap out the MAF, top off the fluids and run it a bit.


Thanks for all of the help from everyone who offered your support and knowledge, as well as those of you who's threads I endlessly read through! Couldnt have done it with out all of you Yotatech'ers. Feels great to have accomplished such a big job and have it turn out good in the end.

 

Congrats man! That first time it fires is always amazing and such a huge relief.

 

Thanks!! I think in the moment I was more excited that my oil gauge came to life right away than I was about the thing starting. Then I realized.. hey it is running! Finally!!