mt_goat

Ok thanks for the input Supra, I don't have the stock t-stat in, it's the URD (Napa) 170 deg. I noticed on the stove it opens a lot bigger than the stock t-stat did. But yeah the TRD 160 definitely looks good and yes if nothing else I'll just slap the stock fan back on and call the e-fan experiment a failure (but not yet).

suprathepeg

Does the URD flow more coolant? I would still mess with the T-stat so see if it works. I would also talk to Weasy2k IIRC he had a simular problem when he put the blown 3.4 into his MR2 and the t-stat fixed his problem. He is likely one of the only guys here (if not the only) who has done anything close to what you have.

mt_goat

It should since it opens up with a bigger hole. They don't advertise it as a highflow t-stat but I noticed it opens a lot bigger hole than the stock t-stat when I had them both on the stove together. I did drill a small hole in it already, because it didn't have a jiggle valve.

mastacox

You could always remove the t-stat (jsut for testing purposes) and see if things get better. If not, it isn't your limiting factor.

AH64ID

I think Dale has determined the fan is helping, with the fan off its getting hot...

And electric fans are capible of flowing much much more air than an engine driven fan. This is because for a engine fan to deliver max flow the engine compartment would have to be super hot and the engine rpms silly hi. Under normal circumstances the elec fan will produce much much more air as it can run at full speed with the engine off....

As far as flow if he is hot at cruise and cool at city he would be flowing too much at cruise rpm, and need to slow the flow thru the radiator to allow the coolant to cool...

His problem is probally they shroud.. I didnt realize how restrictive it was at first...

Dale here is a thought... cut the bottom half of the shroud off... the top 2/3-3/4 will still allow the fan to work properly, but missing the bottom will help flow at hwy speeds?? I used to run my runner with only half a shourd, had to cut it since the radiator I put in wouldnt bolt up....

suprathepeg

The stock fan will suck a lot of air on the highway. Goat are you running a taurus fan or one of the parts store ones? The parts store ones are poop bottom line, they won't even cool an unmodded small block with a high density 3 core rad. Either way start ruling things out. Start with the fan cause its cheep, as in free.

If you mean the stat is larger then an aftermarket one then thats not much. A stock Toyota t-stat is about 1/4" larger in diameter then the parts store ones. Opening earlier doesn't really help you flow more at temp either.

04 Rocko Taco

I think the shroud may the key here also...try backing it off, I know you said you had a little bit more space in there than you thought you would doing the fab work, so back it off, and give a little more room and see what you get out of it that way. I think the flowing to much at cruise speed makes good sense though, just not giving the coolant a chance to cool off, if it was a t-stat or fan not working issue, your temps would be going sky high in stop and go city drives. Keep us updated man!!

mt_goat

Wow, thanks for all the input guys. My DSL was down for a few hours.

Good news is the cruise control and CEL for the park neutral switch are fixed. After calling and talking to Mike about the problem a few times he had an idea that worked and fixed both problems. Wiring problem, thank God for businesses that answer their phone and care about customer service. I never would have even started this swap without ORS's help.

mt_goat

I made an index for this thread in my first post on page 1, also I put a thumbnail pic in now for all my pics through out the thread.

Elvota

Such a strong thread for the 3.4 swap.

Thanks for going the extra mile with your documentation and now index.

mt_goat

Had something interesting happen when I hooked up the R-4 tuning software to the FTC (piggyback controller). I didn't upload a new tuning map, but was just monitoring the current start-up map to see what cells I was going to be looking to tune first.

The truck had been amazingly close to tune with the start-up map provided by URD, small fuel trims by the ECU and A/F right around 14.7 in non-boosted conditions, but progressively getting richer as I approach WOT and a little too rich at WOT (around 10). But after connecting the laptop to the FTC and just monitoring the maps now all of the sudden my A/F ratio starts acting erratic and the fuel trims started going into the teens to high teens. At one point I noticed my ECU was dumping in fuel with short term trims around +15 and sure enough my A/F was too rich at about 10-12 at a no boost condition. Also I had my first low RPM pinging while getting onto the freeway. I was like something is suddenly wrong here. I pulled into a parking lot close to home and shut down to look under the hood and everything looked and sounded normal, well except for this little tick-tick-tick... that I've been hearing a lot, (more on that later). Then I decide to pull the plug on the FTC to laptop connection and drive home to figure things out and the truck goes back to normal for the drive home, everything is fine, runs like a bat out of hell, no pinging. The only thing different was I was no longer connected to the FTC with the R-4 software.

Is it possible that monitoring the maps could cause the FTC to slow down and fall behind in controlling things? Because that's what it feel like, if I was sitting at a red light things would start to stablize at around 14.7.

Ok the Tick-tick-tick...has been worrying me a little but it was not RPM dependent so I was pretty sure it wasn't the engine. It would only start after the engine warmed up good and stay very constant, never getting faster or slower as the rpms changed, but it would get harder to hear as the engine roars up. Well I finally got out my mechanics stethosope ($12 at Napa)


And this is where the ticking was coming from:


It's the VSV off the 3.4 evap canister. I mounted it to the firewall and the noise goes right through the firewall into the cab. I thought only the older VSV made this ticking, but this is a 2001 model. I guess I'll try wrapping it with rubber to isolate the noise.

No oil in my can? I had put this oil catch can on the breather line that goes from the drivers side valve cover to the front of the throttle body. It's the one that is responsible for all that crud that covers your TB butterfly valve and intake over time. But so far no oil, maybe when the truck gets in a steep angle there will be some show up?


There is also a breather vent for the other valve cover but I didn't put a can on that one because it dumps out after the TB and my water/methanol injection nozzle so I'm pretty sure that will keep everything clean from that point on.

Cebby

Dale - I haven't posted in this thread, but have been subscribed and reading it since it's inception.

Great job! I wish I had 10% of your dedication - but I think I'm too easily distracted...

mt_goat

Thanks Cebby!

Well I got the ticking sound to stop, I unscrewed the VSV from the firewall and wrapped it up with some soft rubber matting:

Not as pretty but that noise was driving me nuts.

mastacox

These are some very strange symptoms indeed... I haven't had any problems with this and I use my laptop to monitor the FTC a lot. One thing, I use the USB-serial connection to plug in the FTC, which is theoretically much faster than a regular serial port. Also, I would pull the ECU fuse to reset it, it could be it's freaking out a little.

I have some gusses as to what might be happening, but they're just shots in the dark so I'll keep my mouth shut for now. Let's see what resetting the ECU does first.

mt_goat

Thanks Brian, I'll try that. I did hook the FTC and OBDII again at the sametime to compare the rpms and boost levels to make sure they are measuring the same and they were. Also everything ran normal, so as of now those strange symptoms have not happened again. I've been thinking about resetting the ECU because the long term fuel trims are still reflecting some of those higher strange numbers right?

On the cooling issue, I took radiator out moved the fan back by spacing the shroud with some 1/2" aluminum C channel and some foam:




Back in place and there is only about 1/4" clearance now:


After a test drive the extra spacing didn't seem to help at all. The fan still runs at highway speeds and the temps got up to 203 deg F cruising at 70mph on a 70 deg day. I think the front grill is in need of some cutting, there is so little space for the air to get in from the front with the TJM bumper and winch.

After posting a thread about normal coolant temps, Gadget said the normal temp should be about 10 degrees higher than the T-stat. So with my 170 deg T-stat that would be 180 Well the way my fan controller is set now the fan doesn't even start kicking on until I'm at about 185. So I'm going to try setting it to come on sooner and see if I can lower the 203 down. It does cool very nice in stop and go traffic with the fan hardly running. When I say hardly running I mean the controller slows the speed down to much less than the Taurus "low speed". I can hear the fan speed pick up when I switch over to the back-up relay (this bypasses the DCC controller) and runs the fan at a constant speed on the Taurus "low speed" wire. Maybe I shouldn't worry too much about the fact this controller will run the fan on the highway as long as it will do the job.

AH64ID

Hmm... too bad it didnt help, I would still look at maybe ditching the bottom 4" of the shroud.

mastacox

X2, if the radiator sticks out below your TJM. If it will be covered, I would leave things the way they are and lower the target temp on your fan to 170F... On a side note- could we see a pic of your front end, to get an idea of what you're working with in terms of grill blockage? Rather than modifying your shroud anymore we could devise some ingenious ram-air ducting to channel air past your TJM and into the radiator... I'm thinking your TJM creates some airflow that basically shoots up and over your hood rather than through the radiator, which would explain the warmer highway temps and full-blast e-fan.

I'll have those coolant temps for your on Wed night but I suspect they will follow Gadget's prediction since I am not yet e-fan... I want a Lincoln Mark VIII fan so bad!

mt_goat

The lower part of the TJM is angled such that the air flow would be directed under the truck, the upper part of the TJM is flat as a brick.

Brian I wouldn't call it a full-blast e-fan, I really don't know for sure where it is speed-wise other than it's at least 50%.

Yeah I'm going to adjust the DCC controller so it kicks on when the temps reach about 170 instead of 185. If the truck runs 15 degrees cooler I'll know the fan wasn't close to maxing out yet.

mastacox

Hmm, there isn't much to work with is there...

bamachem

fill me in... what fan did you go with and what controller? by DCC, do you mean a Delta Current Controller?

i really like my variable speed controller i got from Delta Current Control mated up to a volvo stock fan and shroud.