mt_goat

Hummm, the radiator is new so I can't image a clog unless it's a defective core or something. It is an aftermarket rad. When I flushed it the water drains quickly.

AH64ID

interesting.. is it a oem waterpump and pulley? i wonder if the 3.0 and 3.4 waterpump and radiators are desinged for different flow rates?

mt_goat

Yeah original water pump, this 5VZ only had 27,000 miles on it. What pulley? Well the radiator was designed for a 150 hp engine and I'm cooling a 300 hp engine with it, so yeah it isn't designed for that.

thefallman

except that they are the almost the exact same capacity as the taco radiator. as far as flow rates thats not going to matter as much as cooling capacity (volume) the radiator can flow way more then it can cool.

i think that the reason he is warmer at highway speeds is that his costom shroud doesnt have enough room between it and the radiator to alow it the air to change directions effectively which efectively creats and Air Dam at higher speeds because of the volume of air trying to go through the radiator. its the differnce in a cabover Semi and a Traditional.

John

Jet effect????

come on tell me you know more about aerodynamics then that. there are to reasons thats wrong. the first being the engine is so close behind the radiator it causes a blockage and a slow down, because the air has to change directions and flow around the engine. the second reason is because there is no INLET shroud to trap the air against the front of the radiator and force it thru. its easier for the air to go around. you know physics and the whole path of least resistance. the air is going to go around way before it goes through especially at higher speeds where you end up pushing a wave front of air infront of your vehicle.

the whole concept is pretty simple. any pilots on here want to add there 2 cents to this.

AH64ID

Flow rate does matter as you can outflow a radiators ability to cool. Which would be more likly at cruise speeds due to higer rpm that city driving

pssst.. I am a pilot I am not saying its going to come thru at warp factor seven... just that what makes it thru will probally increase a little. The engine is close but not close enought to greatly affect flow, the air will disperse thruout the engine bay before it slows flow. Since the engine bay is open it will flow normal. And air is going thru the radiator. Arent most shrouds tight fitting? The air is getting thru. And cruising on the fwy takes a whole lot less power than stop and go does, so really cooling should be easier. Espically will all the air around the engine moving.

But how close is the custom shroud? I mean 1/8" or 1-2"... I guess I could be missing how close it is. If the shroud is on the radiator(super close and not tapered) then its for sure blocking air, and yes would create an air damn. If its 1" or so away and has a smooth increases in distance til the opening then you will get a jet effect (MINOR), its easier for the air to accelerate that to push back and stop incoming air, depending on how the shroud is built (what page are the photos on?). Once the air is thru the radiator and to the shourd it will continue to flow, there will probally be a very small air dam effect, but not enough to slow air flow so much that the cooling efficancy stops, but who knows as the fan is actully helping at this speed. I wouldn't have thought that a electric fan moves air at more than 50mph.

mt_goat

The pics are on page 3, but here's the best one:


The fan is very close to the radiator, so Brian is probably right about the air dam. I didn't know when I was making it how much room I was going to have for clearance. As it turned out I could space it back about 1/2 inch more, I may try that. Thanks for the idea. I have thought about an inlet shroud, or at least cutting away part of the plastic grill that blocks the flow.

AH64ID

Okay yeah, that shourd isnt the most flow conducive shroud. I was thinking of a more oem taperd shroud. I would space it off as much as you can.

mt_goat

It takes a fair bit of power to hold this brick at 70mph, my old 3.0 couldn't do it with all 150 horses unless I was in 3rd gear screaming or going with a tail wind or going down hill.

AH64ID

I know what you mean.. I try to turn 35's with my RE, but can easily hold 75 at 3K feet in OD on level ground. I figre at 300rpm I might be making 45-50hp at best, at it takes all of it to keep me rolling. On a hill forget it unless I am above 4K...But 50-60hp isnt much and still shouldnt take a ton to cool...

mt_goat

Got the OD on/off button wired to work correctly but now I have a CEL for P1780 (park neutral switch) everytime I shift out of park. I have reset the code 4 times already :cry: The O2 simulator is installed and I haven't had a P0420 since.

I have a feeling the CEL is going to be coming on a lot, so I down loaded all the codes to my laptop so I can look them up fast. Here's where I found them: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/..._Trouble_Codes

jasond

Just curious, but have you seen at what your fuel trim looks like. I wanna know how well those injectors are sized to the blower.

mt_goat

I've been looking at them some and they aren't too bad. I'll have to take you for a ride and let you watch them Jason. I'm really surprised how good the preloaded URD maps are.

thefallman

IMHO heres the problem and the reason the fan helps at stop an go driving in town the car is relying entirely on the fan to pull air thru the radiator. because of the low speeds.

At highway speeds it would seem that the air would get pushed thru the radiator, BUT any vechicle creates an air dam in front of the vehicle depending on its aerodynamics. our radiators are not possitioned to take advantage of this IE close to the ground. this lets air take and easier path around below or above the radiator and not cool it. this is the reason that when the fan is shut off the temp heats up cause the air is going with least resistance and going around the truck. instead of thru the radiator.

HEY got a idea im missing my front valence and so i have about 8 inches of the bottom of my radiator exposed to the air from the front. Just wondering how your truck is setup

Strange that you couldnt push 33's at more then 70 with out droping OHHHH nM you saying you couldnt push them with O/D on gotcha. Yeah i couldnt either but i drove around most of the time out of O/D with the 3.slow. didnt have a problem hitting 95+ in 3rd.

Hey Dale if your just now getting that cel code after changing the wiring my bet is that you changed something that needs power cause im not getting that. and i have my O\D wired up if you tell me what plugs and pins i might beable to check on my wiring diagram.

mudbutt

Well I drove a 1998 auto 4runner today. The max temp was 195.

if you think the shroud is restricting flow, remove the electric setup and install the factory fan with no shroud and look at highway temps.

Looking at what my truck runs at with the stock t-stat, makes me think you have a airflow restriction at speeds. I was playing around today and my highway temps are less then city driving. I do have a heavy foot in traffic though. 192 highway-198 city

The fan pulls toward the engine right? I goofed this up back when I had a rock crawler, had the fan in and out too many times and hooked it up backwards.

mt_goat

Thanks for the help guys. Brian, when I look at the front of the grill I'm suprised any air gets through there, lol. There appears to be a lot of plastic in the way that could be cut out (not sure how good it would look). My TJM bumper, winch and trans coolers also don't help.

Jason gave me some good info on tracking down the park/neutral switch CEL, (it helps a lot to have a Toyota Master diagnostic tech following my thread) so hopefully that will be enough, thanks for the offer though.

Mudbutt, thanks for the info. What were the outside temps like for those readings?

I got the AC serviced this morning (Auto Air in OKC) and it works but they had to bypass the engine temp cutoff relay to get power to the compressor. Appearantly just the 4x4 autos have this cutoff (in case the engine overheats it shuts down the AC compressor power) I talked to Mike and he seemed to remember having to bypass that on a few trucks. The 3.0 AC amp was looking for a signal from the old engine that it now doesn't get from the new engine. The AC shop said the Tacomas don't have that cutoff relay. I'll just have to manually shut off the AC if the engine over heats, which I would do anyway.

They blew out the condensor but there wasn't much (or any) old R-12 oil in it, and they refilled the system with 4 oz of PAG oil and a 1/4 oz of dye. They said the PAG oil would be better for the compressor than Ester oil and would work fine, and any residual R12 oil will just settle in the low spots of the system. So $210 later it's now a working R134 AC system. Not too bad I guess considering they had to track down the compressor power problem, they also replaced the R12 fittings with 134 adapters and adjusted the AC amp so it would come on at the lowest idle possible.

Of course as soon as I get one thing fixed something else goes wrong. Now I notice the cruise control quit working. Haven't had time to look at that yet. It was working fine till I messed with the ORS harness to fix the OD button. Maybe that and the park/neutral switch problem are related and I can fix 2 at the sametime.

mastacox

Yikes, it's just one firefight after another...

How's the tuning? Done any tinkering with the WI to try and get your EGT's down?

mt_goat

Nope not yet.

04 Rocko Taco

I know throwing parts at a fundemental problem elsewhere is not really the way to go....but have you looked at putting an electric pusher fan on the front of the rad? Good luck, I know you having one issue after another. Looks good though Dale...If Im ever out your way, I want a ride!!

mt_goat

10-4 on the ride.

No I haven't even considered that, but really right now the fan that I have seems to work fine and keep the engine temps stable. It is just that it has to run while on the highway which is suprising and unusual. Now that I have the AC working I did a little testing, and the Delta linear LED shows bright red with the fan speed at 50%, which means I have no way of knowing if the fan is running full blast or only 50% or anything in between. It must switch from green to red at about 25% or less, but what do you expect from $10 indicator.

The most logical explaination I've heard is Brian's that the shroud is too close to the radiator and blocks the air flow. So that's probably the first thing I'll try before next summer rolls around.

Jason when you say connector E5, is that the ECU plug E? If so, what's connector E6? Going through that list of connectors you sent it appears E5 is ECU plug E, and E6 is ECU plug D (on Gadget's terms anyway). Ok I think I figured it out now, what Gadget calls plug A is really connector E8, plug B is E7, plug D is E6, and plug E is E5. I think it's time to do away with Gadget's terminology and just go by the EWDs.

suprathepeg

I haven't been following this thread but here are my suggestions. I had a simular situation when I first installed my 3.0. First install the stock fan and clutch, nothing you can buy will pull as much air and it will easily overcome the obstructions you have in front of the rad. The 3.0 rad us uhber big, I think toyota over, over built the cooling system on the 3vze to try and compensate for the temp variations in the engine so I'd rule out the rad its already a high density 3-core. For compairison the 3vzfe in the camry that makes 180hp only has a 2 core.

Second flow is a big deal and TRD has taken that into account with this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRD-S...spagenameZWDVW

Its pricy but it opens at a lower temp and flows more coolant then the stock one. As it is a little pricy I would try drilling 2x1/4" holes in the stock T-stat which will make it flow more coolant to flow if that helps then you know its worth the money of the larger t-stat.

Here is what I would do in order:

1) Instal the factory fan and clutch (I'm assuming you still have this kicking around). Its the cheepest and easiest thing you can do. If that fixes your problem then you know its a fan problem and can either look at the lincoln electric fan or an electric pusher set to kick in at higher then normal temps.

2) If 1 doesn't work or only helps then drill out your t-stat, its a cheep part and the only real negative will be your truck taking a little longer then usual to warm up (I did this and all should be good). If this solves your problem then you know its a flow issue and you can look at the TRD t-stat.