3.4 swap runs horrible
#43
For sure check your spark plug wires and make sure that they are in the correct order. The "1 3 5" that are posted on the wires is where they come from, not where they go. (if you have factory wires) If you can, get a data list while the engine is running at idle and post the results up here (mainly want to see the grams/second of airflow) Is it really -40C up there? Did you see that on a live data list or was it the snap shot on your code data list? If it was on the snap shot its possible that you unplugged your maf with the key on and thats when it saw the -40 and recorded it with the code.
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was a snap shot my reader cant do a live feed I was told taht -40C is normal while the engine is in open loop. I took another snap shot later and it said 11C and that was about right for the time but the truck still ran like crap.
Im pretty sure it isnt the MAF or intake temp because wouldnt that affect all the cylinders not just cylinders 2 and 4?
Im pretty sure it isnt the MAF or intake temp because wouldnt that affect all the cylinders not just cylinders 2 and 4?
#45
btw, showing -40 isnt normal unless its -40 outside, or you unplugged the maf with the key on and it set that code then. Open loop or closed loop the computer will still see all the sensors correctly.
Last edited by jasond; 10-20-2007 at 09:46 AM.
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was a snap shot my reader cant do a live feed I was told taht -40C is normal while the engine is in open loop. I took another snap shot later and it said 11C and that was about right for the time but the truck still ran like crap.
Im pretty sure it isnt the MAF or intake temp because wouldnt that affect all the cylinders not just cylinders 2 and 4?
Im pretty sure it isnt the MAF or intake temp because wouldnt that affect all the cylinders not just cylinders 2 and 4?
Open circut (broken/unplugged wires), not open loop. Open loop still monitors all circuts even, most important are IAT, ECT. These are used to determine fuel delivery during open loop due to no/ignored feedback from the O2 sensor.
A couple of the junkyard 3.4l I purchased had the wires pulled out of the connectors for the Airflow meter/IAT. You might want to check the wiring from the AFM to the ECU, I know it's been said 2 or 3 times already.
Unplugging 2 cylinders should make it run like crap every time, 2 dead Holes. I don't get how it could even remotly run any better. What do you mean run better? No backfire?
#47
Registered User
btw you want to be careful running with out the plug wires on the plugs. alot of newer cars require the resistance from the plug in order to keep from frying the coil pack. i unplugged a couple of my friends plug wires at his wedding and ended up replaceing a coil.
And its possible that you have a couple of bad coils. you might try switching your coils around and seeing if that makes a differnce. or seeing if you can borrow a couple for a test.
And its possible that you have a couple of bad coils. you might try switching your coils around and seeing if that makes a differnce. or seeing if you can borrow a couple for a test.
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great news guys I got the injectors tested and its turn out they were shot!(cyl 2 and 4)
Ill have an update on my opinion of the new motor once I drive a bit
Ill have an update on my opinion of the new motor once I drive a bit
#49
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah it wasnt cheap but now it runs great!
just two little problems now
1)a pretty loud valve tick(weird because I checked/adjusted all of them)
2)When im coming to a stop in neutral the idle pulses
Great besides that and oh yea...LOTS OF POWER
just two little problems now
1)a pretty loud valve tick(weird because I checked/adjusted all of them)
2)When im coming to a stop in neutral the idle pulses
Great besides that and oh yea...LOTS OF POWER
#53
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Make sure you don't have a vacumn leak for the pulse thing , could it be a idle solenoid playing games with you , just guessing , have not even seen a 3.4 .
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im pretty sure its a valve because it only starts ticking when the oil warms up
Im sure running 10w30 would fix it
and yes NEVER do a valve ADJ on a 3.0 or 3.4(same thing but twice as many) unless you have to
Im sure running 10w30 would fix it
and yes NEVER do a valve ADJ on a 3.0 or 3.4(same thing but twice as many) unless you have to
#55
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#57
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[SouthEast]: Mercury Villager Fan & DCC Fan Controller
coryc85
Misc Stuff (Vehicle Related)
6
09-09-2015 06:24 AM