I think its very close to the topic you have created. sorry i stole part of the thread i guess

 

For sure check your spark plug wires and make sure that they are in the correct order. The "1 3 5" that are posted on the wires is where they come from, not where they go. (if you have factory wires) If you can, get a data list while the engine is running at idle and post the results up here (mainly want to see the grams/second of airflow) Is it really -40C up there? Did you see that on a live data list or was it the snap shot on your code data list? If it was on the snap shot its possible that you unplugged your maf with the key on and thats when it saw the -40 and recorded it with the code.

 

It was a snap shot my reader cant do a live feed I was told taht -40C is normal while the engine is in open loop. I took another snap shot later and it said 11C and that was about right for the time but the truck still ran like crap.

Im pretty sure it isnt the MAF or intake temp because wouldnt that affect all the cylinders not just cylinders 2 and 4?

 

Is it 1 and 3, or 2 and 4??

btw, showing -40 isnt normal unless its -40 outside, or you unplugged the maf with the key on and it set that code then. Open loop or closed loop the computer will still see all the sensors correctly.

 

Open circut (broken/unplugged wires), not open loop. Open loop still monitors all circuts even, most important are IAT, ECT. These are used to determine fuel delivery during open loop due to no/ignored feedback from the O2 sensor.

A couple of the junkyard 3.4l I purchased had the wires pulled out of the connectors for the Airflow meter/IAT. You might want to check the wiring from the AFM to the ECU, I know it's been said 2 or 3 times already.

Unplugging 2 cylinders should make it run like crap every time, 2 dead Holes. I don't get how it could even remotly run any better. What do you mean run better? No backfire?

 

btw you want to be careful running with out the plug wires on the plugs. alot of newer cars require the resistance from the plug in order to keep from frying the coil pack. i unplugged a couple of my friends plug wires at his wedding and ended up replaceing a coil.

And its possible that you have a couple of bad coils. you might try switching your coils around and seeing if that makes a differnce. or seeing if you can borrow a couple for a test.

 

Great news guys I got the injectors tested and its turn out they were shot!(cyl 2 and 4)

Ill have an update on my opinion of the new motor once I drive a bit

 

I hate to be excited about them being shot because of the financial implications but you found a problem
Cool

 

Yeah it wasnt cheap but now it runs great!

just two little problems now

1)a pretty loud valve tick(weird because I checked/adjusted all of them)
2)When im coming to a stop in neutral the idle pulses

Great besides that and oh yea...LOTS OF POWER

 

So... pictures?

 

 

I have not done a valve adj on that motor or my 3.0 yet but I hear it is a bugger from one of my friends that work at the Yota Dealer
Make sure you don't have a vacumn leak for the pulse thing , could it be a idle solenoid playing games with you , just guessing , have not even seen a 3.4 .

 

im pretty sure its a valve because it only starts ticking when the oil warms up

Im sure running 10w30 would fix it

and yes NEVER do a valve ADJ on a 3.0 or 3.4(same thing but twice as many) unless you have to

 

Is the 3.4 a DOHC ?

 

Yep, 24 valves. That's a lot of shimming.

 

Owwwwwwwww , gotta be real good to that valvetrain hehe , that a all day job it sounds like or close to it , did they fix the "have to remove the upper intake problem" on that motor.

 

dont know about that problem but unless youre really good or have the toyota SST's you have to take the cams out DEFINETLY a day job