Okay here is the rundown. I have the starter connected, starter wire is connected to the STA position of the ECU. I have connected the auto shifter wiring and I get nothing when I try to turn it over.

Do I need to solder all of the 97 auto t-case wiring together to the 95 auto t-case wiring and then fool the ecu into thinking I am always in 2wd. I don't have the auto t-case anymore, I have geared duals.

My cluster panel lights up like a Christmas tree when I turn the key on, but the motor isn't doing anything.

I checked the ground on the ignitor and it is good. How do I check power to the ECU? Same thing, just ohm out the wiring and the COR?

 

You wired it like this?

Ran your own starter wire?

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...g-help-223809/

 

Yeah. Just like that. I ran a wire from the positve terminal on the battery to the starter. Then the little wire on the starter I ran to the STA position on the ECU. Is the another place where it needs to be spliced into? I noticed on your drawing it says "B/W in the kick panel". Is that another wire or the wire coming from the ECU?

 

your ecu actually has a small batterie in it and can run the engine a few minutes without power from the battery but you'll get a CEL eventually,

 

If you just ran a wire from the STA to the lead on the starter itself nothing is going to happen. The STA on the ECM is just an input to the ECM letting it know that you are starting the motor. It IS NOT an output to start the vehicle. The large B/W wire in the kick panel is the OUTPUT from the keyed ignition TO the starter terminal. You simply wire the B/W to the starter itself. I ran my own wire since the stock 3.4 starter lead is part of the battery harness.
So basically extend that B/W wire(which is an output) in the kickpanel and Y out two leads from it. A small one and a larger one. The small one will go the STA terminal of the ECM and the larger one will go to the small terminal on the starter itself.

Again, both the starter and the STA terminal are INPUTS for voltage when the key is cranked. the large B/W wire is the input from the key when cranked. Join all three of these together.

If you are not getting voltage to that large B/W wire in the kickpanel when you turn the key to start you will need to track down where you may be losing voltage in the truck. Start at the ignition switch and start working your way to the kickpanel. Perhaps the auto shifter (neutral safety switch) is not completing the circuit.

 

Okay. I think I understand. I will look for the big b~w wire in the kick panel today. Thanks.

 

Okay. I hooked up the big black/white wire. I got an audible click from the starter but nothing else...any ideas?

 

You have a big heavy ground strap from the motor to the frame, frame to the battery, etc. correct?

Can you verify voltage at the starter with a meter? Any voltage drop?

 

I have one from the battery to the motor then to the frame. Do they need to go in the order you mentioned?

I can check for voltage drop tomorrow.

 

no the way you have it is probably best anyway.

Hmmmmm....I would verify voltage first and that it is not dropping for some reason. If not maybe a bad starter??

1. Verify you have a good connection DIRECTLY to the battery with at LEAST 6 gauge wire to the main lug on the starter.

2. Test with a jumper wire to the starter solenoid input from the large battery lug on the starter. If it does nothing you probably have a bad starter assuming your ground is good.

3. If it cranks normally you have something wrong in your wiring. Verify voltage at that large B/W wire we discussed earlier. If voltage is good in the kickpanel when you crank the key, you hae a bad wire from there to the starter.

Post back what you find.

 

I had good voltage throughout,from the battery to the starter, starter to the big b/w wire. I tried the jumper wire and got the same click. I had an extra starter laying around so I threw it in and whaa laa, she started right up. Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

SWEET!! Glad you got it

Everything running good?

 

So far so good. Motor sounds good. I still gotta get my exhaust welded in. Then driveshafts and ref.