OK, got a 3.4 from an auto 4Runner, gonna mate it to a R150 manual. I've been researching this quite a bit. I know that the normal/best route would be to get a 3.4 flywheel, clutch and pilot bearing and use a 3.0 pilot bearing. The 3.0 cluth could also be used, but it's smaller, right? The tranny has the shorter input shaft.

What differences are there between the 3.0 and 3.4 flywheels? Could I just drill the 3.0 flywheel to accept the 3.4 clutch? I could get a 3.0 flywheel _much_ easier and cheaper than a 3.4 flywheel, but I don't like the idea of a smaller cluth than original. I also have very good possibilities to do the machine work myself, so it won't be a problem. Are there any gothchas in this plan?

- Mise, Finland

 

There is a reason it's a bigger flywheel.

Just go with the 3.4 clutch and flywheel, the 3.4 pilot bearing, and the 3.0 throwout bearing and be done with it and never have sleepless nights regarding your tranny.

 

OK, thanks. That's what I'm trying to find out. It's a bit confusing as I've gotten the impression that the flywheel (at least the ring gear) diameter has to be the same, if the same starters and bellhousings fit them both.

The clutch mountings and possibly some other minor mods would be easy to do, but if the flywheels are too different, I'll just have to source a 3.4 flywheel. The closest ones available will be in the US, I guess.

 

You can get a 3.4 Flywheel for $110 at Napa.

 

Where are you located?

 

Finland. Not many gas Runners around. Some 3.0 stuff is available, but my 3.4 has been the only one I've seen for sale in years.

 

I got my flywheel from autozone for 68 bucks plus a core charge. You probably don't have autozone in finland though

 

what about using a 3.0 flywheel/clutch/pilot bearing combo on a 3.4 crank mated to the original 3.0 5spd?

jb

 

That is what I did to mine. It worked out good, and I was able to get a centerforce dual friction much cheaper than a 3.4. But is it not as strong?