Okay i'll look into get a kit ordered then if it makes life easier. Plus it would be nice not having to cut the hood up once the engine goes in.


What do you guys think of the 2 inch lift?

 

IMHO too much. Roger (4crawler) will also do custom sizes. So if you think 1 inch is not enough, think about 1 3/8" or something like that. To me 1 inch is good. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml

 

I have no body lift, and didn't have a problem gettin the top 2 bell bolts out. I used a long 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and a swivel socket for the one, and used an extra wobble adapter with the swivel socket for the other one, just because my extension was just a c-hair shorter than I needed... the crossmember was in the way of my impact gun. The 2nd wobble adapter gave me the little additional angle I needed to get a ratchet on it.

That one you listed would probably work, however I'd personally opt for one without the swivel on the end of it for strength purpose.

 

I used both lol. I started with a sawzaw, then did a face palm and removed all of the bolts and then the crossover came right out. Access to the bell housing bolts was really simple with a 18" ratchet and 1/2" socket.


As for the starter, I became pro at removing the starter, I can get it out in a matter of 15 minutes, its all in a matter of maneuvering and wiggling it out of the passenger wheel well.

Oh, And I left the transmission in, but I accidentally took the torque converter with it so I had to get a new output seal (thanks to mt_goat for that) and put the torque converter back on BEFORE you drop the 3.4 in.

Good luck! and have fun.

 

I've have the 2" 4Crawler body lift on my 95Runner. However, if I had to do it again I would just put the 1" on it.

 

I guess if I had it to do again 1.25" might be best for me because the SCer just barely let the hood close.

 

OOoo Thats good intel.

 

So I got the engine out last night peace of caking getting to the rear trans bolts with the starter out. You can't imagine how much easier it is. Once I yanked out that old 3.0 I found a liberal amount of oil/sludge in the bell housing. I suspect this to be the 3.0's main seal.

Since i'm going to be putting the 3.4 in the 3.0's place i'm going to change out the 3.4's rear main seal, and clean up that bell housing. Once I have the bell housing all cleaned up, should I be looking for anything else that maybe causing all of this oil?

 

from what i understand.. 1.5 is the magic number for body lift on this swap. But i dont care for a body lift and cut the hood... Now i'm grafting a 4runner sport hood scoop onto my hood.

 

If you don't put the blody lift on right away, and don't want to cut the hood, but want to drive you rig, you can always put spacers in where the hood mounts to the hinges.

 

Or you can run with no hood at all.

 

I have always hated body lifts but reluctantly I installed a 4crawler 1.5" body lift as I didnt want to cut the hood.

I am finding that I kind of like the look now and I certainly LOVE the extra clearance for the starter, crossover, connecting the transmission wires, etc.

I'd do it again.

 

O.K. in fear of sounding like an idiot..... I really want to do this swap, but I am partially color blind, from what I can tell the worst part of this swap is the ECU wiring. I want to know if there is an Idiot proof wiring diagram to help me ??

 

Just get a friend to tell you the colors and label them. Nothing idiotic about a disability, no one is prefect.