I unbolted the cross over with extensions from underneath then pushed it down a bit and I could access the top three tranny bolts no problem with a box wrench. as for the starter, just remove the cover in the wheel well and then unbolt the starter and it WILL come out, you just have to finesse it a bit with different angles. I just did this stuff last week and it all worked like a charm.

 

I don't unbolt the corssover. I leave them right where they are. The only exhaust part I unbolt to pull a 3.0 is the 3 bolts on the downpipe, and the 2 bolts holding the shoe-horn looking bracket to the bell housing. The 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing look intimidating, but aren't really that bad. Use a long transmission impact extension, like one of those 3 foot long ones. Most will fit in a half inch impact gun and have a 3/8 head on the end. Use a 17mm swivel socket on the end of it. The one on the upper right (looking at it from underneath, top on the passenger side) is easy to get off. The upper left one (top drivers side) can be kind of a bitch, but if you use a swivel joint AND a swivel socket with your long extension it'll come right out. I personally use a big 24" long 1/2" ratchet because I don't like using impact guns with a swivel on a swivel socket... kinda dangerous if it catches wrong, kinda starts flying at you fast. once you get it broke loose, you're golden.

You do have to unbolt the starter to seperate the bell housing from the block. The rear bolt goes through the bell housing, through the spacer plate, and into the starter. The front bolt does the opposite. The spacer plate bolts to the engine block with 1 10mm bolt behind your flywheel or flexplate, depending on if you're auto or manual tranny. Using that same long ass extension it's really easy to get the bolt in the back of the starter, and if you remove your skid plate you can burp the front bolt off with an impact gun as well. You can pull one of those starters out in 20 minutes. Or for what you need, which is just to unbolt it and let it hang down there, 5 minutes.

 

So i picked the motor up on sat morning which worked out great. the guys had everything ready for me to load up into the back of my buddies pickup. i got the engine and everything connected to it... AC, Power Steering, Air Box, etc.. You get the picture. Ecu and wiring harness of course, and the huge box looking deal for smog. I'm going to head down to the junk yard to get the obdII connector as i will need it to get the truck BAR'd. But all in all i think it was a pretty good find.

Now i'm working on getting the old 3.0 of my truck. Can't get the top tran bolts out because of the stock crossover on the 3.0 Bolt/nuts will not budge. Tomorrow when i get off of work, i'm going to give it another shot with some penetrating oil, and see what gives.

 

Cool deal on the motor score.

On the tranny bolt grab about 3' of extension and get at it that way. Thats what I did. Its a bitch though for sure. Was REALLY nice reinstalling everything after the body lift was on!!

 

I'll be checking everything out when i get home today. If for some reason i can't get that crossover out because of stuck bolts. I guess it's going to meet Mr.SawZaw.

 

X2, leave the cross-over on. No need for "Mr.SawZaw." Who you need to meet is "Mr 1/2" drive extensions" and "Mr 1/2" drive swivels"

 

how high did you go? I should look into doing a body lift as well. I cringe on the idea of hacking up a perfectly good hood because of the stupid intake manifold.

 

1)Place floor jack under transmission
2)Un-Bolt rear driveshaft and front drive shaft
3)Un-Bolt the transmission crossmember
4)Lower the transmission and allow the engine to pivot on its mounts (if you have the belt driven fan you may need to unbolt it or unbolt the radiator and remove it )
5)Once the transmission is low enough you should be able to remove the transmission and the bell housing bolts using a 36inch extension or enough extensions to equal that
6) Only one bell housing bolt runs from front to rear this bolt is easily accessible from the front out the engine with strike plate removed simply run the extensions from front to back of the motor by the starter (this is a starter bolt)


It is highly recommended that you use a transmission jack it will make you job so much easier

 

God awful! I'm trying to keep the trans where it's at. I don't want to have to unbolt other things just to get the engine out. I've seen countless threads where people just yank the motor out, and don't have to dick around with the trans at all.

So a 3Ft Extension should do the trick and a swivel head.

 

youre gunna have to line up the crankshaft to the input on the tranny when you put it back which is gunna be waaaaaaaayyyyyyy harder than lining up the tranny so way not just remove it ? I mean its not bad with a tranny jack which is on sale at harbor freight for like 120bucks right now so. trust me you want the tranny out

 

Why? You just have to support the transmission in the rear while you unbolt the crossmember. Then lower it slightly, to get to the top 2 bolts. Then bolt it back up. Might not even need to do that if you have a body lift (but I'm guessing you don't). You are going to have to figure out how to support the transmission later anyway with the engine out. You don't want to just let the front of it fall and hang by the rear mount.

I'm pretty sure I've needed more than one swivel.

 

no intent on hijacking, but gotta ask. will stock engine mounts work for the 3.0/3.4 swap? also, the stock bell housing? and do I need a welder and torch for the swap?

 

I would consult the following

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/ 3.4 Swap Section

http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48 3.4 Write up and Install simplified.

3.4 Engine needs to use the 3.0 mounts. Yes the bolt up to the 3.4 and no you can't use the 3.4's as they angle differently.

3.4 Will bolt up to the stock 3.0 4x4 Transmission

No heavy fab needed. Unless you beefing something up.

 

the body lift will be the next thing to do. how hard would it be to unbolt the cab and lift it up? it's an alternative idea, but then again I'm putting more variables in the equation.

 

you need a one inch body lift to clear the intake plenum on the 3.4 anyway. I would on do a 1 inch no more, umm its not so bad two hilift and normal tools you should be fine.

 

yeah or you have to cut your hood to clear.

 

Moved to the 3.4 Swaps section.

Fink

 

So I need to invest into one of these extension.
http://tinyurl.com/yft258d

Also I see that removal of the crossover pipe while the motor is still in the truck is nearly impossible. I'm ordering one of these mega extensions tonight.

Goat / pb4ugotobed, do you guys have a body lift on your trucks as well?

 

Thats essential the one I have mine is just snap on, I just wish it was a) wobble and b) 1/2 to 1/2 i used a harbor freight adaptor and it worked great my adaptor was wobble and it helped alot

 

1 inch