would you say it's eaiser to just remove the engine by it's self, or the engine and trans at the same time? i'm going to be yanking out my 3.0 slow here in a few days.

 

I have done both. If you take the just the engine out then you have to squeeze your hands and tools between the firewall and the crossover pipe (which also has to come off to get the bolt out that sits right there) If you take it out with the transmission. then you take out the 4 bolts at the bottom of the transfer case and and then the 4 big bolts on the cross member. Then the engine mounts. In either case I recommend taking out the radiator, and the exhaust. If you are just swapping the engine then I would just take it out.

 

I pulled mine with the transmission and transfer case still attached. It can be done, but if I were to do it again, I'd use a Sawzall and cut the exhaust pipe, unbolt the tranny, and yank just the engine.

But that's just me.

 

I did that with one of my 4Runners. I cut the front clip off, and then I cut the exhaust and all hoses and wires. (Only cause I'm getting ready to do a 1uz swap to it.) I think pulli8ng just the engien would be the easiest though you may have to spend some time taking off the accessories.

 

that wouldn't be a bad idea to have a whole once peace tubed front end clip that just unbolts on and off. That would be idea for getting work done fast.

 

i just took the motor out only..

easy enough.

 

So i'm pretty much ready to toss out the old 3.0 engine and put in the 3.4 engine. I've been looking high and low for a good deal to come my way and i think i've found it.

The motor is out of a 3.4 4x4 Manual 4Runner. They turned it over for me and everything sounded fine. I got a quote for 1150.00 including the motor and all attached accessories, wiring harness, and computer.

What do you guys think?

My Truck is a 92 3.slow 4x4 Manual. I'm pretty sure this will be a easier swap as the donor is a manual as well. Also i'm trying to get the engine B.A.R'd by the California Ref.

 

oh you guys happen to know where the ECU is located in the 97-2000 4Runner's? I checked the kick panel and found what looks to be a ABS box or something. No ECU.

 

Sounds like a reasonable price to me.

You need to make sure you grab the evap box as well, because you're going to need it for your smog cert. Grab anything you can from the emissions.

The ECU is likely located above the glove box.

Not sure if you will have a problem with the 4Runner ECU in a pickup. I'd check to see if they want the ECU from a truck, as well. Check Cadman's thread for more info.

 

ECU is indeed above the glove box, under a black plastic shroud. First remove the glove box, then remove the plastic shroud, and you will see the ECU behind it.

 

i think i should be fine the SUV/Truck is in the same class. Now if i did a swap from a straight 6 out of a supra i would fail, as it's for a car. IDK i think i should be fine. and if they are looking for a visual i think i could just swap out ecu boards or cases to match. =)

 

Vehicle family Rule:
Engine must come from a vehicle from the same family, ie. light duty to light duty, medium and heavy duty to same. What surprised me was the family range. Everything from a mini to a 1 ton truck is considered light duty, and engines can be interchanged. Everything greater than 1 ton pickup is considered med/heavy duty and thus cannot be used as a donor into a car.

Catalytic Converters:
CATs are not required to be installed on vehicles that did not come with them installed from the factory.
Kicker: OBDII donor vehicles have post CAT O2 sensors. These cannot be disabled in any way. Without the CATs, the PCM will throw a code, thus creating an issue with the conversion. So, although the CATs themselves are not required, if the Donor vehicle is OBDII, then by proxy, they are required.

Misc. Emissions controls:
EVERY piece of emissions package is required from the donor vehicle. That would include fuel tank (to include fuel pressure sensor), evaporative canister and all lines from and to the tank.

Referee inspection:
Pre-75 vehicles (vehicles not requiring smog tests) do not have to be referee certified. However, CHP (or any law enforcement officer, I suppose) can write you an emissions citation, which would need a visit to the referee to sign off to cancel the citation (fixit ticket). Apparently, the State is actively looking at modified vehicles for emissions violations (roadside checkpoints as mentioned previously)

 

whats the mileage???

 

I hadn't heard anything about the fuel tank before. That's news. I'd check Cadman's thread about the trials and tribulations he went through to get his certified.

 

they wont care as long as you have everything that your donor vehicle had.

Grab the airbox, ecm, wiring, Evap box, idle up (screws into the power steering pump), try to get the whole power steering pump, and the ignitor.

I would also grab the OBD2 plug above the gas pedal and the circuit opening relay on the bottom of the fuse panel in the drivers kickpanel.

I think that is a fair price. Not great but fair. Since I have found my donor I have seen some really great deals of course. nothing before.

I still wouldnt do the swap myself again without the whole vehicle here.

 

Whats the best way to get the rear exhaust cross over off so i can get to the top engine/trans bolts. also ideas on starter removal, whats the best way of getting it out, due to the limited space.

Yanking out the 3.0 for the 5vz Swap.

 

Why remove the starter if you're removing the engine??

You can get at the downpipe from below looking up the exhaust with an impact wrench & extensions. No need to remove the crossover pipe & starter....

 

You may well find it easier to pull the engine with the transmission attached.

 

Just be sure you drain the tranny first; I dump a load of gear oil onto my driveway when I pulled mine~

 

i thought the starter has to be removed from the trans, as it will be holding the engine and trans together. Now i could be wrong, as this is the first time I've pulled the engine from my truck. Every other engine setup I've doubt with the started needed to be pulled.

I tried a extra long ext. And no go. I'm going to try some penetration fluid and see what happens. If last resort i'm taking the sawzaw to the SOB. I'm not keeping any of the 3.0 parts, so it doesn't matter. =)