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So, posting this so it might be easier to find incase y'all use an A/T ECU (ECM) with your M/T rig.
Background:
My '86 was a 22R-E and we swapped in a 1997 3.4L 5vz SC'd (7th injector) with 1997 harness and 1997 4x4 M/T ECU. Now could this harness originally have been an auto harness that we repinned during the swap..... ....maybe...? In any case the swap went fine and years later....many, many years later no issues. Until the other day when I went to start it and all it did was crank....and crank....and crank. The EFI fuse keep popping and then was fine (at this point I assume that whatever was popping inside the ECU....finished popping lol). Well, piss. Started just fine a few weeks ago...wtf. So, with lots off assistance from fellow YT'r and swap aficionado, vitaly22re, I began with a multimeter and checked everything. All sensors and all wires. Aaaaannnd found nothing....except everything pointing at the ECU being bad. That's crazy I thought. I opened up the ECU and it did not smell real healthy, had that hot electronics smell.... Meowkay. So, I began the search for another 1997 M/T ECU....well folks, good luck with that. :sadpanda: Fortunately, I know people and acquired a 1998 2WD A/T ECU, a 1998 for parts motor harness and wiring diagrams for the ECU and A/T.
Good news! The ECU is a lot smaller than the 4WD one! It fits a lot better inside the kick panel and screws right in to the existing mount.
Bad news! I have to repin all four connectors!
Good news! The pins from the '97 will fit into the '98!
Bad news! There's two different pin sizes and the '98 uses all small pins.
Now, yes, I did cheat and was able to get the pins with matching wire color I needed from the harness. So, having the pins was not nessasary.
Which brings me to my first problem. The cam and crank sensors. MAKE SURE YOU ARE PAYING ATTENTION TO THE WIRE COLOR AND THE PIN POSITIONS. Or else you'll get a P0340 and start chasing your tail. You'll see in the pics.
Pretty obvious right. Lolz.
Well, when your upside down jammed under a dash you can get cross-eyed lol.
Anywho, next problem. P0773 or shift solenoid E. There's a whole rabbit hole of searching for this to fix if you're a manual transmission. Mostly for guys converting their auto to a manual. Which was not me. At first I was not getting a MIL but then it came. Constantly. There was also a lot of "who cares if the MIL is on all the time, just take the bulb out" comments. Hmmmmm...k. I was able to find a post, not a thread, mentioning installing resistors which vitaly22re confirmed. So, that's what I did.
Now comes the part which I'm purely experimenting with this. As you can see in the pic, in the one post I found, he used 480 ohm resistors which allegedly worked. Well, I did not have 480 but I did have 1.5k ohm ones. Now according to the diagnostics it states that anything less than 8 ohms will trip MIL and anything greater than 100k ohms will trip the MIL.....well, guess we'll see.
All I did was pin those three out, install the resistors in-line of each wire and then put to a ground. Basically made those three wires their own wire harness. So far, so good. As long as the MIL doesn't trip I'll be happy.
Hope that makes sense and maybe this info was already out there, I'm hoping to just make it a little easier to search for.
Or maybe I am off my rocker.....:haha:
1997 4WD M/T ECU pinouts 1998 2WD A/T ECU pinouts Post pop A/T EWD for 1998. Diagnosis for P0773
Haha, well in my defense I had been working on that post for two days. Also, I asked one of the moderators....won't name names....put that title in....haha
In addition to the three transmission solenoid signals the transmission temperature signal will also need a resistor. I used the same one that I had used previously and wired it it. The difference this time is you'll have to intercept another wire on a different plug. The pins in this diagram are not the same for my application so...verify your wiring. Hard to see but it is a Violet/yellow wire.
Last edited by BigBluePile; Aug 2, 2022 at 08:51 AM.
Well, things seem to working together for the most part. I am finally dealing with the last code: P1700. So, here's my very expensive and exhaustingly over engineering bracket installed on the tcase. Waiting on a pigtail currently but I have already ran the wiring to the ecu and "tied" it in for now. Yay me. Sensor and bracket indexing off the four tcase flange bolts.
Anywho, I had an extra plug hanging out in my swap harness. Who knew right! Thanks vitaly22re.....grrr....it was the 4wd indicator that had no purpose and coincidently is the correct plug for the auto SP2 sensor. It's just blue instead of black and the wires are different colors. So, if y'all need that plug it's already there for the taking! Yaaaaaaay!
Now I have no codes. Which is nothing new for those that have been swapping these motors over the years.
Older thread but I just did a 3.4 swap from a 1999 4Runner into my 1992 pickup and I used the auto ecu because it’s what I got and I’m cheap and this will probably come in handy once I get closer to being finished with the swap.
It’s currently running and driving but I don’t have an oil pressure gauge working or a tach or a diag port or the a/c wired up but I got the mil light wired in and the speedometer working again