Republic77

Hi Folks,
First thread, total Toyota newbie. I bought an 88 pickup, manual 5 speed, 4x4, standard cab standard(6) ft bed with what turns out is a tired 22 re.
My intended use is to build a capable off roader, but still streetable. Not a rock crawler, not 16' in the air, more expedition usage.
I fully intend to keep the chrome around the windshield.
I also have a multimeter and an FSM
The truck itself is solid,and near stock, but tired.The DAPOs have been playing wiring games though, so I am sorting that too. My initial plan was to keep dumping oil into while I went through the suspension. look at rebuilding the re or doing something else.
However
I have run across wrecked 2003 Taco,3.4,manual trans with transfer case,with a 4.10 trd e locker rear end with switch.
The drivetrain has about 121k on it. The wiring is (allegedly) complete. The price is not unreasonable.The thing is I know next to nothing about Toyotas.I restored an old german car and I am a capable home mechanic with decent skills. I do not weld (yet) I think this is doable, but what else should I be looking at and what do I need to do to my truck to make it work?( engine,trans mounts) etc. All suggestions advice and wise ass comments welcome. I have been through the newbie section,3.4 swap section and other places,so if I am missing something obvious....
Thanks in advance!
John

coryc85

John, no real advice, but I'll follow along. One of these days I may swap my 22re for a 3.4. I saw company called Chillkat sells engine mounts. What tranny are you going to run?

Republic77

Hey Cory,
Thanks for the reply. At this point I am tying to figure out if my w156, in the truck will bolt up or do I buy the one currently behind the engine and adapt it.
I have no idea what goes with what with regards to compatibility. I want the most straightforward swap with Toyota parts.
I am browsing some threads now and see a couple of different transmissions being used, so I will do some more research.
This opportunity just popped up and I thought if it was compatible as a unit in the other truck maybe I could get away with just getting mounts for my truck, ors wiring harness...
but then there is getting the power out to the wheels, so what axles, do they bolt up, all that kind of stuff. I am brand new to these trucks, always have had cars, so the learning curve is kinda steep, but lots of fun.
lots of different things to consider for this, I will have to do something eventually with the 22re,even if it is staying with it and rebuilding it. Moar power tho....
Thanks for the tip on chillcat I will check them out.
Have you run across any other good threads with the same swap/same truck?
Thanks again
John
Edit: Chilkat has some nice stuff!

irab88

iTrader: (4)

I have the Chilkat mounts in my swap... the way they have the bolt placement, you'll need to weld in either the nut or bolt to the underside of the mount. Because it offsets, one of the bolt holes is in the center of the old mount. I'll try to find a pic of what I mean.

edit: The rest of the mount is awesome. It's heavy, strong, and could put a dent in granite.

Republic77

Hey ira,
I looked at yours in your thread. you used the weld thru primer right? Any advice or directions would be very helpful and appreciated.
I will go back through your thread and se if I have any questions.
Given your experience with the swap, do you think the drivetrain I am looking at makes sense or would you go with more of a mix and match to achieve the goal?
Thanks for the reply
John

irab88

iTrader: (4)

You cannot bolt the W56 to the 3.4

However, that lineup (3.4-R150F-e-locker) is a really good lineup. I have something close, you'll like it.

Use the engine, transmission, transfer case, and differential from the Tacoma, and put it into your truck just like you planned. Toyota drivetrains are fairly strong to start off with.

Get a subscription to TIS. Just get the 2-day subscription (it does NOT renew, so no worries there) and download all the EWD's (electrical wiring diagrams). Get them ALL, because there may be something down the line you need to find.

Some things you might need to change:
-driveshafts
-battery/intake locations
-crossmember
-power steering lines (I'm using this, it fits well)
-oil pressure sender (not sensor) (the 3.4 uses a sensor, which just does the light. the sender from the 22R-E should fit and drive the gauge as well)
-water temp sender (not sensor)
-exhaust

Some things I had to buy:
-zip ties
-hose clamps
-self-fusing electrical tape
-more electrical tape
-heat protective wrap and tape
-tube flare kit

I hope that helps, feel free to ask questions, no matter how basic.

edit:

Here's the Chilkat mount. Notice the bolt sticking up; That's where I welded the nut on the back. Once the mount is bolted/welded into place, there's no way to get to the back side for that nut.

Republic77

Ira,
Thank you for taking the time to respond, the information was very helpful and you answered my question regarding the drivetrain!
In regards to some of the other stuff:
Driveshafts- I assume it will be the length, bolt pattern or angle that will need to be addressed? will the truck body( mount for the differential) need to be modified or just the driveshaft?
should I grab as much of the donor and modify or does the existing equipment need to be modified?
Battery- I see people moving the battery to the passenger side, and assume this is because of the intake, which will be dependent on the year of the donor?
Or is there a benefit to doing it as a "while I'm in there thing"?
Crossmember- Transmission, does the location on the truck need to change or modify the donor piece the fit the trucks existing location, or
modify the w156 piece to fit the new trans?
Power steering- I will go back over your thread, I don't remember if you changed the pump to the 3.4 or retained stock?
Senders- should be pretty straightforward.
Exhaust- F'in California, so I will need all the smog stuff from the donor in place and functional to pass referee.
Any body else in Kalifornia do this swap and would care to chime in, it would be greatly appreciated!
Got most of the tools listed from my last project car...
Thanks again for the time, I really appreciate the help!
John

irab88

iTrader: (4)

Lots of questions, so I'll break this up a bit:

The length of the driveshafts (front and rear) may change. Since you're keeping the stock drivetrain, it should be pretty close. Keep the original and donor shafts, see which ones work best. If none fit, choose the longest ones to get machined into the right length (it's a lot easier/cheaper to shorten). Length is measured flange-to-flange. This may require a bit of test-fitting.

For the e-locker, either housing should work. However, you can use the original housing, modify it a bit, and add the e-locker (this is what I did, it worked very well). This means your spring perches line up correctly, too (I forget all the differences).

The flanges should all have the same bolt pattern. If not, you can either drill new holes, or just buy a new flange (fairly cheap) from marlin crawler, low-range off road, etc. Those will have 3 or 4 different bolt patterns to use.
Notice how the air-box sits on the 3.4? It's right where the battery goes in the original truck. You'll need to move the battery, or figure out another air-intake setup.
I went through all of this. If you're lucky, you can use a crossmember from your year truck, but with a 3.0 and 5sp transmission. It didn't work for me because of my crawl boxes. It should work for you.
3.4 pump, new hoses from trail gear (low range off road, actually. They had a sale), and original steering box.
You're on your own there. I don't mess with Cali-stuff at all. However, it's not that bad.

Republic77

Ian,
You rock
thank you again,
I am going to look at the donor tomorrow, so I will update the thread after that.
Thank you for posting that picture too.
I'll be back with more question as I progress.
Great community, very helpful!
John

Republic77

I wanted to circle back to this thread and update.
I have decided that I am going to stick with the 22 re right now, I want to do the swap but right now isn't the right time for me.
I am going to go through the rest of the truck( suspension, brakes,electrical then reassess and decide rebuilt 22 or swap.
Thank you to all that replied, I appreciate you taking the time to do that.
John