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Vacuum Switching Valve Vsv Constantly Switch / Tick When Running? P0441 Please Help!

 
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Old 06-16-2005, 09:11 AM
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Here is another good read while we are on the subject (specifically for Toyota):
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf

Bottom of page 3 actually says it is possible for the EVAP canister to become saturated with liquid fuel to the extent it becomes unserviceable (no idea if drilling a hole and letting it dry will fix the problem, but it is certainly cheap to try and very cost effective if it works).

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Old 06-16-2005, 12:01 PM
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I am hoping to drill it tonight

I hope to find some fuel in there, I then hope since I only recently got the light that it is indeed serviceable and perhaps I will have come across a cheap easy fix for all of us.

We will bask in the joy of drilling EVAPs

everyone will be happy, the sun will come out

we will have a picnic!

hahaha

I have gone mad

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Old 06-17-2005, 05:46 AM
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Whey you try drilling it you might try putting a little silicone RTV on the bolt and washer to ensure you have a good airtight seal. It must have a good seal to ensure the EVAP system can pull a vacuum (or apply a slight positive pressure) on the canister. Also be sure to test the valves at the top of the canister to ensure they are working correctly as well (these may also cause a code to be thrown).

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Old 06-17-2005, 07:17 AM
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yeah i was thinking of a small pipe plug and rtv.....
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Old 06-17-2005, 06:26 PM
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well I got crafty with the drill!

there was no liquid fuel but let me tell you it filled my whole barn with the smell of gas, it wreaked, would say was saturated

drilled one 3/8 hole in bottom, then when looking in there I saw some type of filter, this filter was about 1/2 inch away from the bottom, so I didnt damage it when drilling

then I tossed it in a hot bucket of water with soap, it soaked, then I rinsed it, then blew it out with air, then i got the drill back out

then I made a two ones on the side, which face the drivers side of the engine

I made one in each of the two chambers, one in the front, one in the rear one

this is where the small particles of charcoal are, they wreaked of gas as well

I lost only a minute amount of the particles, I would cover one hole which I made in the side chamber, then put the air through the bottom hole and blew it out, then I did the other

I have not started it yet, it is all back together, nice pipe plugs, black rtv, new vacuum lines

this doesnt work, tme for a canister!
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Old 06-17-2005, 09:37 PM
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Uh, "BOSTON4RUNNER", "BADLNDS", guys....maybe you should check out the post:
"Charcol Canister needs replaced at 65,ooo mis.?", by "Diana" & read the threads in it.
"MTL", why did'nt you tell them??? I hope that they've not just incurred a possibly $500 a piece expense because of this.

Last edited by 94x4; 06-17-2005 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 06-18-2005, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Uh, "BOSTON4RUNNER", "BADLNDS", guys....maybe you should check out the post:
"Charcol Canister needs replaced at 65,ooo mis.?", by "Diana" & read the threads in it.
"MTL", why did'nt you tell them??? I hope that they've not just incurred a possibly $500 a piece expense because of this.
I am not convinced your 2nd gen canister and a 3rd gens are the same.
If you can post a pic of yours and we'll try to get a 3rd gens posted so any differences will be obvious.
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Old 06-18-2005, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Uh, "BOSTON4RUNNER", "BADLNDS", guys....maybe you should check out the post:
"Charcol Canister needs replaced at 65,ooo mis.?", by "Diana" & read the threads in it.
"MTL", why did'nt you tell them??? I hope that they've not just incurred a possibly $500 a piece expense because of this.
I have read every thread on charcoal canisters.....prior to doing anything on mine, I did see that post about the 65K failure, but my codes have been recent, perhaps the cleanout will help, but if not, guess it is time for a new canister.

There is a junker near here that has tons of later model wrecks maybe I can get a low mileage one there
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Old 06-18-2005, 09:08 PM
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Hey, "MTL", I'll take a pic of my 2nd. gen canister tomorrow & try to stick it on here to do the comparision, later.
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Old 06-19-2005, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Hey, "MTL", I'll take a pic of my 2nd. gen canister tomorrow & try to stick it on here to do the comparision, later.
I've tried to see about posting those shots of my canister for a comparison, but seem unable to get the info from the site on how to do it.

As soon as I can get someone to clue me in on how it's done ("hint-hint", site Administrators/Moderators) I'll post the photo's I took that show the canister in place, as well as a shot of the "...flanged ring nut..." that I mentioned.

Sorry about the delay.

Last edited by 94x4; 06-19-2005 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 06-19-2005, 02:45 PM
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Put the picture file on a web server someplace then cut and paste the URL of the picture from the web server and put it between IMG tags, like this:

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Old 06-19-2005, 03:58 PM
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Sorry, I can't seem to manage to make it work. Could be that I'm having trouble with my ISP as their web page looks all funky & such.

I did notice, "4Crawler", that your canister has a ring nut on top of it under the "purge" & "tank" pipes like mine that would allow the assembly to be removed to gain access to the innards.

Last edited by 94x4; 06-19-2005 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Sorry, I can't seem to manage to make it work. Could be that I'm having trouble with my ISP as their web page looks all funky & such.

I did notice, "4Crawler", that your canister has a ring nut on top of it under the "purge" & "tank" pipes like mine that would allow the assembly to be removed to gain access to the innards.
94x4, You can just put it on a site like www.webshots.com or www.photobucket.com and then use the image tags to link it to the page so we can see it. Webshots has dynamic linking so the link is only good for a certian period of time before the address changes and you need to relink.

Boston, did the CEL come back on after you did the cleaning and let the canister dry out?

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Old 06-20-2005, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
94x4, You can just put it on a site like www.webshots.com or www.photobucket.com and then use the image tags to link it to the page so we can see it. Webshots has dynamic linking so the link is only good for a certian period of time before the address changes and you need to relink.

Boston, did the CEL come back on after you did the cleaning and let the canister dry out?
well usually takes a few days in between clearing it...so is about due

however the truck smells cleaner, there was a noticeable small out the exhaust before....it now appears to be gone

probably about time to order a new canister...
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Old 06-20-2005, 08:24 AM
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k...my mechanic spoke to a couple of toyota techs and they all said the same thing...replace your VSV valve next to the canister first (thats usually all they need to replace)...bought a vsv valve ($70CND for a piece of plastic) and am installing it today...I'll keep you posted.
-B
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Old 06-20-2005, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
94x4, You can just put it on a site like www.webshots.com or www.photobucket.com and then use the image tags to link it to the page so we can see it. Webshots has dynamic linking so the link is only good for a certian period of time before the address changes and you need to relink.

Boston, did the CEL come back on after you did the cleaning and let the canister dry out?
O.K., "MTL", tried both links & both gave me the same message: "...having technical difficulties, try again later...", so, so much for that, for now anyway.

Irregardless of my inability to get the shots posted, the canister is still:

4" in diameter;
5-1/2" tall, with approx. 1" more to the top of the "tank" & "purge" fittings housing;
Has a 1/4", flanged, "tank" pipe;
A 1/8", smooth or flush, "purge" pipe;
A 1/2", flanged, bottom pipe;
Is black in color;
Part #(F) 77740-35260
138600-2762;
And is "Made In Japan" by "Nippo Denso" ("Konichiwa MF'er"... said in a Bruce Willis/"Diehard" tone of voice).

Sound familiar ??

Last edited by 94x4; 06-26-2005 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 06-21-2005, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BADLNDS
k...my mechanic spoke to a couple of toyota techs and they all said the same thing...replace your VSV valve next to the canister first (thats usually all they need to replace)...bought a vsv valve ($70CND for a piece of plastic) and am installing it today...I'll keep you posted.
-B
Ouch, that little bugger is expensive up here!
Let us know if that fixes it for you.
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Old 06-21-2005, 05:09 AM
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yup...with the taxes it came to over $80 (damn QC taxes)...but hey at least i'm not dishing out the big bucks for a new canister (not yet at least?).

keeping my fingers crossed....and i will keep you guys posted.

-B
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Old 06-22-2005, 11:43 AM
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I've managed to get a shot of the canister uploaded to "www.webshots.com" under conspicuosly enough, "Canister", if you want to take a look at it there.
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Old 06-22-2005, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 94x4
I've managed to get a shot of the canister uploaded to "www.webshots.com" under conspicuosly enough, "Canister", if you want to take a look at it there.
Can you give a link to your public album?
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