So I was taking my wheels off to install my manual hubs and noticed I had trouble getting two of the lugnuts off on the driver side. I looked and the lugnuts and studs and they both look fubared. Is this hard to fix? What parts do I need? How do I get the axle hub off?

 

I can't say for certain with your year, but in most cases, all you have to do is remove the caliper and rotor. Then you should be able to punch the lug studs out with a pin punch and new ones get reinserted from the rear. You may need a press to install the new ones. New studs are available from Toyota, don't know what the price is. Some others may have more specific info on your rig.

 

any one else?

 

yep...do the same as above, but just use the lug nut and an impact to seat the new lugs. It works fine. I've done it a couple of times and never had any problems.

 

how do you take the rotor out (rear) 3rd gen runner?

 

are the studs a dealer only part or will somewhere like autozone have them too?

 

Most likely you can get the studs at Autozone (check their website). I bought studs there for my old Mazda car when one of the tire stores cross-threaded them for me. They should only be a couple of bucks.

 

Just done this last weekend - I had two broken studs on my right front wheel.

You will have to remove the caliper and then take the 52mm socket and remove the bearing nut's - remove the hub - bearings and rotor.

Put the hub in a large vise and remove the 6 bolts holding the rotor to the hub
and use a pry bar to seperate the rotor from the hub - knock out the old studs and install new ones - beat in with a hammer from the back side.

Reinstall the rotor to the hub and then reinstall on hub and rotor on the runner. It took me about 1.5 hours start to finish.

Not as easy as it sounds !

 

i never beat the new studs in with a hammer, i flip the rotor over and use washer larger than the splined part of the studd jsut incase any comes out of the front, then i turn a lugnut over and tighten it with an impact gun.... if you just beat it with a hammer, its likely to go in sideways, there is less change of this with the washers and nut pulling it through the already sraight front face of the rotor

 

Doc's post is accurate. I had to change two broken studs myself about 6 months ago on my 1995. I remember thinking what a pain to get the rotor off the hub. I got my wheel studs at NAPA.

 

where do you get a 52mm socket?

 

You can order them from Advance auto parts or autozone but I
use a 2 1/8" socket from Sears. I believe it was around $20.00

The 2 1/8" socket is a 3/4 drive - get a ratchet or buy the adapter to get it to 1/2" torque on the first nut holding the hub is 45 foot lbs to seat the bearing and then back the nut off. Supposed to be checked with a spring gauge but I just spun the hub and rotor by hand until it suited me.

The new studs will tap in with a hammer - the nut and washer deal works to but with the hub and rotor seperated - it was easier and less trouble to tap them in.

 

You can buy a special 52mm socket for the wheel bearing nut at NAPA. It is a sheet metal tube with a welded insert in the end for the wrench.

 

I agree with Jim's stud install method. When I replaced studs before I tapped the studs into the hub to start, but then used the actual wheel and a lugnut wrench to pull the studs through straight. I don't have a nice vice or air tools.