Quick ?
#1
Quick ?
Will be changing the oil for the first time myself on my 97. Where is the oil filter located and do I need any special tools to get it out?
#2
Hey Nerf. I have the 4 banger, but I'm sure the oil filter can be removed in the same fashion. Some say you can access the filter from the fender liner. It's a PITA with those grommet fastners.:mad: I remove the skid plate(s) with a 12mm socket. I learned a while back it's easier to remove and install the skids as one unit. It's heavier, but it is easier and faster. The 3 bolts in front (by radiator) can be loosened..not all the way. There is a clip by each bolt on the skid to prevent the pan from dropping on yer face.
There are 2 recessed bolts (use a long socket and extension) next...remove. Don't take off the bolts joining the 2 plates (pans). The last 2 are on a crossmember...remove. The rear will now hang down. Remove the 3 front bolts and unhook the front edge. The skid is off. I usually degrease and clean the skids. The drain plug is removed (I just bought the Fumoto drain valve I'll install on my next oil change...looks awesome). I remove the oil cap to release any pressure while draining. We have disposable oil drain boxes here to burn with the Hpower trash facility) that are cheap. I use a ridged cup filter remover. It was bought at NAPA (bring your filter in to match fit.) Using a long extension (3/8" fitting) the filter comes off real easy. Replace the plug and new filter (wipe clean oil on the filter gasket) and fill up. Button everything up and run the engine checking for leaks before replacing the skids. Loosely tighten the front bolts and rear. You need to slide the skids to locate the middle bolts. Go easy hand tightening with the socket. The self tapping screws get wierd at times. I used to change my oil every 6-7 weeks...now I'm running Amsoil. I love it! Good luck.
butnut
There are 2 recessed bolts (use a long socket and extension) next...remove. Don't take off the bolts joining the 2 plates (pans). The last 2 are on a crossmember...remove. The rear will now hang down. Remove the 3 front bolts and unhook the front edge. The skid is off. I usually degrease and clean the skids. The drain plug is removed (I just bought the Fumoto drain valve I'll install on my next oil change...looks awesome). I remove the oil cap to release any pressure while draining. We have disposable oil drain boxes here to burn with the Hpower trash facility) that are cheap. I use a ridged cup filter remover. It was bought at NAPA (bring your filter in to match fit.) Using a long extension (3/8" fitting) the filter comes off real easy. Replace the plug and new filter (wipe clean oil on the filter gasket) and fill up. Button everything up and run the engine checking for leaks before replacing the skids. Loosely tighten the front bolts and rear. You need to slide the skids to locate the middle bolts. Go easy hand tightening with the socket. The self tapping screws get wierd at times. I used to change my oil every 6-7 weeks...now I'm running Amsoil. I love it! Good luck.
butnut
#3
After a bit of deliberation and imdimidation I took her in for the change. But I will be changing it myself one of these days, and changing to synthetic most likely 
Hey nut, i got the plastic adhesion promoter and silver metallic bumper coater today, will be doing the paint job on the dash most likely next week if I can find the time.
Is there any type of plastic I should try and find for the turn signal mod? (i.e thickness, opaqueness?) Any retail product I can find easily in the states that would do the job?

Hey nut, i got the plastic adhesion promoter and silver metallic bumper coater today, will be doing the paint job on the dash most likely next week if I can find the time.
Is there any type of plastic I should try and find for the turn signal mod? (i.e thickness, opaqueness?) Any retail product I can find easily in the states that would do the job?
#4
Hey Nerf. I don't know the paint products you got? Don't need adhesion promoter with just the dash piece. I guess any'silver' paint would work, but I like the Hi-temp aluminum because of the low gloss and self priming...just spray in one easy step. Be careful as different brands of paints react with each other. Any clear plastic will work if it's rigid enough, yet you can cut it with a good sissors or Xacto/utility knife. The Japan pencil case I got was about 1/32" thick and fairly rigid. The factory green slug looks to be about 1/8" thick. I used 2-3 layers. The first layer was sanded with 400 grit to 'frost' it like the factory green slugs. Check with office or art supplies. If you strike out, I can make you some...have a little left over blue.
butnut
butnut
#5
I went around looking for the specs for the paint you had said (high temp alum) But they only had aresol acrylics, and was told I needed a enamel. I trust the guys I got these paints from, they seem to know what they were talking about. Of course, they could have been selling me the adhesion promoter just to make sure my wallet was a tad lighter when i walked out the door! Only thing I'm aprehensive about now is that I just noticed the Silver Metallic paint is a gloss. I hope it's not too shiny. If so, Jason will be getting some buisness soon for a dash kit :rolleyes:
I'll let you know If i have any problems finding that plastic
thanks for all your help mate.
-J
I'll let you know If i have any problems finding that plastic
thanks for all your help mate.
-J
#6
Hey Nerf. Sounts like you went to a paint store . The spray paints I have used are available at any home improvement/hardware store. They usually show a picture of a Bar-b-que grille
...cheap stuff. Automotive stores have this also. It's called engine paint or exhaust paint...all Hi-temp. Usually way cheaper at Home Depot like stores. Are you painting all your interior plastic? If so, you may have a more durable paint product than the Hi-temp stuff. Sounds like automotive paint. The Hi-temp is a dry finish...gloss may hold up better...good luck & do post some pics.
butnut
...cheap stuff. Automotive stores have this also. It's called engine paint or exhaust paint...all Hi-temp. Usually way cheaper at Home Depot like stores. Are you painting all your interior plastic? If so, you may have a more durable paint product than the Hi-temp stuff. Sounds like automotive paint. The Hi-temp is a dry finish...gloss may hold up better...good luck & do post some pics.
butnut
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