i use some chevron supreme oil 5w30. its only like $10 a case at costco thats why i use it.

 

Chevron oils have been consistently ranked among the highest quality dino oils. Valvoline and Castrol seem to be getting lower on the scale.

Stay with it.

 

Amsoil - oil (0w-30), oil filter, air filter, atf

 

Same as me.. my options are pretty limited at the base and there's no way I'm paying for it off the base $$$$$

 

Until there's a dino that I only have to change once a year, I'll hang onto the synth.

 

Mobil 1 synth 5-30W

 

I have tried Quaker state once but have ever since stuck with reg. Castrol GTX. The last change I started using Castrol Syntec and I always use fram oil filters. Any Fram fans or is there something i should know about Fram?

 

once apon a time (not long ago) I read a thread here on oil filters that took me to another site....and said "fram is crap, real crap"

I've use FRAM since I changed oil. NOW, I'm rethinking! I'm gonna go to full mobil 1, and soon.

maybe it's here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

~aaron

 

i use whatever's cheapest.

as long as it's the highest api rating at the time(i think it's SL right now) it should work the same as everything else

oil filters are NOT all created the same however, i will never use fram again. fram filters on my truck took almost 10 seconds to make oil pressure register on my truck, while a napa gold will make the idiot light go out within about a second.

 

i use mobil 1 synthetic and have been for many many years. i never change the oil either! well not really. every 3k miles i change the oil filter and then replace with new oil the amount of oil i lost in the filter change. before anyone yells at me, i have an '87 saab with 185k miles that does not have one oil leak or burn any oil, and still get's 33 MPG in city driving. with the size of the sump in your car and how much you're losing per filter change, it's equivalent to changing all of your oil about 15k-20k miles. that's better than bmw and audi's plan. when you buy a car from them, they give you a "free" oil change every year (or 15k miles) for a couple of years, and they use synthetic. but they keep the filter on there for the full 15k, even with synthetic, i'm not comfortable leaving the filter on for more than 3k. it also cuts down the time to do an oil change to about 3-5 minutes.

 

what is wrong with castrol, are there any comparison studies to show castrol is a waste of money?

 

I ran Mobile 1 synthetic in my turbo Eclipse since '96 and with over 370 strip runs and 117k on the stock motor I had zero problems internally and the compression was still good when checked at 113k so I am a believer in Mobile 1 syn. The stuff is very temperature stable and still pours nicely in sub zero temps (compared personally to dino oil by myself).

I haven't yet hit my first oil change with my Runner yet so I am undecided which route and brand I'm gonna use and I think synthetic might be a bit much for a non boosted engine but synthetic might be a goood idea for hard off roading so I've got about another 1000 miles to make the decision. If I go with a dino or syn oil the only other brand I really like is Castrol.

I am a bit nevous switching to a synthetic with a motor over 80,000 miles since sometimes synthetic will tend to find a leak spot since it's flow characteristics are soo good and it just doesn't gunk up outside of a potential leak and seal it like conventional oil sometimes do.

 

I've been using 10w30 dino oil since I got my truck in 97, and recently switched over 4K ago at around 82K to Mobil 1 Synth 10w30 with no problems. I just did an oil change yesterday and switched to Mobil 1 Synth 5w30 and it seems a bit more peppy for some reason. No complaints here

Oh, and I use a Toyota filter.

 

Well in a 1000 miles I'll be switching over the $$$ stuff and it'll probavly be Mobile 1.

 

Just started using Mobil 1 10w30 High Mileage Full Synthetic with Toyota Oil Filter...running great now!

Fink

 

Why do I keep hearing that full synthetic oil is not good for high mileage vehicles??

Is this true??

I'm using VAVOLINE...... I have no idea if its synthetic or not.. LOL!

 

IS IT BAD?!?!?!?!?!

I hope not...I will have to change it AGAIN!

Lemme know guys!

Fink

 

FUGGRWE, the mechanic probably meant that M1 is a true synthetic where Castrol is genuine initation synthetic. I think there is only 3 major true synthetic oils in this country being Mobil 1, Redline and Amsoil. M1 is popular because it can be bought just about anywhere.
KING, I dont think this using syn on higher mileage vehicles is bad at all. I just started using M1 at 200,000. It runs better than ever. And no its not leaking any oil after the switch.
As someone else said check out http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?. A lot of good info on oil, filters etc.
I use M1(now 22.xx at Wal-Mart up from 18.xx a 5 qt jug) and a Puolator Pure One filter with 6-7000 drain intervals.
I also believe M1, Redline, and Amsoil are the only true extended drain oils compared to all the semi-synthetics/other big name oils.

 

From April to October i run 10W-30 Quaker State 4x4 blend. When it geats cold Quaker State Winter Oil helps the rig get statrted in the early Ohio frost.

 

I've been using Mobil 1 5W-30 but the change last weekend was to German Castrol Syntec 0W30...