red green would be proud... i can't see anything wrong with that, it's not like your worried that your cv will get any worse, you're replacing it.

 

I highly recommend you get a facory service manual, or at least a Chilton's or Haynes manual, then you won't be confused about a job like this. Most importantly, IMHO, you will have a list of the proper torque (ft-lbs) for the different bolts for reassembly. When it comes to wheels and brakes I ALWAYS use a torque wrench to make sure everything is put back together properly and safely.

 

I do have a Chilton's service manual, I bought it before trying to replace the axle, but I haven't been able to find anything about cv axles or anything that would help me with this.

 

Check page 7-19 in the Chilton's, it's not very descriptive, but better than nothing I guess.

 

Okay, Thanks

 

Are you replacing the whole cv or just the boot? If you are replacing the whole cv anyway I wouldn't worry too much about getting dirt in the old cv joint during a short trip. If the cv is fine but just the boot needs replacing I would either not drive it until the boot was replaced or do some kind of boot repair. For a short trip or trail repair, tape may hold for a while. I've never tried them but the auto parts stores sell some clamp on boots that may work for a while.

 

I am replacing the whole cv, Im not sure how long these have been on my runner so I just decided to put new ones on anyways.

Im still gonna cover up the torn parts in the boot just incase, I don't wanna get stuck up on the trail because of a stupid mistake by me.

 

I just replaced my cv axle in a 93 and i had some problem getting the differential-axle bolts out. What we did was get a bunch of extenision for a ratchet and a long piece of pipe for leverage. then one person gets under the truck and puts just a regular wrench on the other side of the differential. There is a sweet spot where you can get the socket with the extensions in and hook a wrench on where it will bring up on one part of the vehicle, you may need to play around with it to find this spot but if i found it you should be able to find it. Then all you need is leverage and then some more leverage, these bolts are probably the hardest bolts to get off on the whole truck.

 

Sounds close to what I was trying. But tomorrow maybe im going over to a friends house with more useful tools. Hopefully tomorrow ill finally get it done.

 

for some bolts that i can't get to budge, i use my jack to do it..ie...diff fill plug...put the ratchet on it and jack up until it touches the ratchet and continue to...viola..loosens enough to where i can do it withthe ratchet.

as long as the screw/bolt faces you, its doable, but from beneath, no can do.

 

I finally got it replaced! Wasn't easy at all though, took me and 2 other people to do it. We had to use an Impact Wrench to get those 6 bolts out as well as most of the other bolts. Now its time for the other side, should be easier now since I know what im doing.

 

yea, it was the only thing that worked for me too.. and now that i have to replace my drivers side (glad i didnt sell that axle now), i'm not doing it without air tools, lol.

glad you got it done, add a notch to your belt

 

green91runner, the drivers side is much easier. I did it a fewe weeks ago... It took about 2 hours with multiple beer breaks... Best part is you don't have to take everything apart... Remove the tire for room, 6 hub bolts, bolt and washer, c clip, and 6 axle bolts then with a little work it'll slide out and with the reverse work the new will slide in.... Now after reading this post, I can't wait to tackle the passanger side...J/K

 

yea, it's the identical process with the passenger side... we had it done in about an hour and a half.. (while also putting in new struts in a friends car)