Front diff, Motor, and Welded diff questions
05-23-2005, 04:52 PM
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Front diff, Motor, and Welded diff questions
I have a $200, 90 4runner with a 3.0, auto, the fancy transfer case that appears to be permanently attached to the tranny, 156,000 miles, and the ADD crap. I also have a free 91, 3.0, 5-speed, manual locking hubs, extended cab pickup, with 180,000 miles.
The truck is in much better shape than the runner, but I kinda blew up the motor. It has a hole about the size of a golfball on the passenger side of the block in front of the motor mount, but other than that it is in great shape, even has a new clutch and I can still see some of the factory paint on the framerails! (this is very rare up in Vermont)
Will the motor out of an automatic trannsmissioned vehicle bolt into a stick shift truck? The only thing I am worried about is getting the clutch and flywheel to bolt up, will they?
What are the odds of my runner having 4.30 gears? Because I have heard that almost all of them do, but noone has been able to confirm this.The pickup has 4.10's and 285/75/16's, so I would like to swap in the runners diff and third for the lower gearing. Would it be worth the effort for just that extra .20 gearing?
Will the runner's front diff bolt into the pickup, but using the one piece driverside axleshaft so that I can eliminate the ADD? If the ADD has to stay in place, can I just shim it into the "lock" side and use my locking hubs? Will the shimmed ADD setup be just as strong as the pickup's current setup?
I already have the pickup's third welded up, and would do the same the the runner's third if I swap it in, but what are the opinions on welding up the front end while I have it out? I know about the turning radius, but will I blow up CV shafts? If they do blow, are the ADD diff's CV's interchangable with the pickup's diff? Can I adjust the steering limiters to gain more steering angle like I can with my Nissan without blowing up the CV shafts?
Sorry for the long post. This truck will never see pavement, but will be beat on horrendously in the mud, and I do tend drive with a lead foot and little regard for the redline in the tough sections, so take that into calculations for the CV shaft's.
The truck is in much better shape than the runner, but I kinda blew up the motor. It has a hole about the size of a golfball on the passenger side of the block in front of the motor mount, but other than that it is in great shape, even has a new clutch and I can still see some of the factory paint on the framerails! (this is very rare up in Vermont)
Will the motor out of an automatic trannsmissioned vehicle bolt into a stick shift truck? The only thing I am worried about is getting the clutch and flywheel to bolt up, will they?
What are the odds of my runner having 4.30 gears? Because I have heard that almost all of them do, but noone has been able to confirm this.The pickup has 4.10's and 285/75/16's, so I would like to swap in the runners diff and third for the lower gearing. Would it be worth the effort for just that extra .20 gearing?
Will the runner's front diff bolt into the pickup, but using the one piece driverside axleshaft so that I can eliminate the ADD? If the ADD has to stay in place, can I just shim it into the "lock" side and use my locking hubs? Will the shimmed ADD setup be just as strong as the pickup's current setup?
I already have the pickup's third welded up, and would do the same the the runner's third if I swap it in, but what are the opinions on welding up the front end while I have it out? I know about the turning radius, but will I blow up CV shafts? If they do blow, are the ADD diff's CV's interchangable with the pickup's diff? Can I adjust the steering limiters to gain more steering angle like I can with my Nissan without blowing up the CV shafts?
Sorry for the long post. This truck will never see pavement, but will be beat on horrendously in the mud, and I do tend drive with a lead foot and little regard for the redline in the tough sections, so take that into calculations for the CV shaft's.
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